Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board A65 Clutch Removal

Hi all!

Is there a way to remove the clutch center nut without removing/disturbing the cylinder, pistons, etc.

The service books show that you have to run a bar through the piston bushings through to the casing to prevent the engine from turning when you try to unscrew the nut.

Ultimately I am just trying to access the gear cluster because I cannot seem to engage 2nd and 4th gears. (Let me tall ya, it was a slow summer)

Stormin

Several ways to do this:

1. Put the bike in gear and have someone hold the rear wheel

2. Put a block of wood between the primary chain and the chainwheel to jam it up without messing up the chain or the wheel

3. Impact wrench.

Once you get the nut off, you'll need one of these.

Funnily enough I asked the guy that rebuilt my A65 engine the same question today. He uses an old gear cog of a suitable size and traps it between the camshaft pinion and idler gear. This locks the engine enough.
Of course not all of us have a cog of the right size just laying around.
John

Stormin'

You can jam up the primary chain with rag and use an impact driver or a long breaker bar to get the nut off. OR you can do like I do and use an air wrench - you don't have to hold anything that way, the inertia of the parts holds them still.

As Alex says, you NEED that little clutch hub removal tool; a jaw-type generally won't do it.

Lannis

Ii would have to disagree with lannis ....{even though he is probably a lot smarter than me } I have one of those clutch tools .THEY SUCK ! tore the threads out of the clutch center. What i did was to take a 3 jaw puller ..medium size .and grind it to fit the clutch you need a little modifying but it works great and you don't have to order that lame tool.......

Have used both, gear pullers and/or the clutch hub pulling tool.

The clutch hub tool makes life easier, but the first time I went to use it, after removing the clutch hub nut, the washer behind it was stuck so I couldn't immediately use the clutch hub tool as the washer was covering the clutch hub threads! LOL! (TR6R)

Had to put the clutch pressure plate back on & used the clutch pressure plate and adjuster screws as a "puller", tightening down the clutch adjuster screws to pull the clutch shock absorber unit free which brought the washer out along with it. Then I was able to use the clutch hub tool with no problem.

if to get a peice of alu. about 1/4" thick and 1 1/4" wide by about 4" long you can put it between the teeth on the cluch hub and the teeth on the motor sprocket at about a 45 degree angle and it will lock the motor where ever you have it set at, then just turn the nut off to put it back on, set it at a 45 degree to the other side

steve's british bike museum, marquette kansas
http://www.webspawner.com/users/hotshoe4/index.html

black,

If the threads are in halfway decent shape and you have the right puller (they changed threads somewhere along the way), the tools work great. Problem with the 3-jaw jobbies is that they can distort the clutch basket if it's really tight. The webbing on the backs of those baskets is pretty thin. I've had to toss a few baskets because they had as much as .060" runout.

I have used a puller myself with no problems (yet). But that may be a vote NOT to use one!

I have literally had to split one off with a dremel tool when all other mentioned methods failed. It had been on there since 1966. Once you break one loose and reassemble they generally come off easily. I use an air wrench on the nut. When I tighten the puller I do it judiciously so as not to strip the threads. Then a sharp rap on the puller usually pops it loose the first time. You'll hear it when it lets go. I use reduced pressure on my air wrench on the nut so I don't overtighten. I personally think 60 lb-ft or whatever the torque is is unnecessary with a tabbed washer. I have never had one come loose on a BSA or a Briggs motor. Tapered shafts with keys have long been a popular way to fasten clutches, flywheels etc. because they center the device and don't slip. The key to removal is the sharp rap on the puller with a hammer.
Mr Mike

Thanks guys,

I have tried to get someone to hold the rear wheel, and tried the block of wood trick to no avail...

Unfortunately I don't have an impact gun. I think I will try using the peice of aluminum to lock against the sprockets...

Does anyone know what the thread size are on the clutch hub sleeve puller tool? I am hoping to make one up myself.

Stormin,
There are two different threads. Don't know which one you have. I have both of them and one was a mistake, but these pullers only cost about $15. Order the one that is listed in the back of your shop manual for your model. These are a must for any brit bike tinkerer.

Mr Mike

for sure if you use a regular 3 prong gearpuller
to remove the clutch sleeve you will destroy it
I am speaking from experience because that is how I tried to remove mine!
After the puller had turned the sleeve to junk I
then tried a bearing puller which will fit behind
the sleeve and provide unifom pressure around the sleeve when you apply pressure.
Works great