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66 Victor Enduro project.... Motor is ready to go in the frame and then I need to sort out the primary side and button it up..... I'll take lots of photos as I progress and probably ask a lot of questions.....





I have some detailed photos of the frame when it was stripped that show the brazing.... Kinda crazy ... I will post them when I have time.....

I started the build thread over on the BSA forum but all of my previous photos disappeared due to photobuckets debolicle . So now is a good time to start the thread over on this forum. I'll reload the old photos as they become relevant to the build again. It took over a year to get the frame back from the painter so I need to refresh my brain on what I did before and need to do next....

Old thread
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=615448#Post615448



PS . I dont live near the bike so this will be a slow process (but I hope not )

Thanks for taking the trouble to restart this series. Many of us (sometimes including me) say "Oh, the heck with it, I'm not doing all that again ..." !

Lannis

So as you could read on the original thread , there were some questions about how bad the rear fender mounts looked on my frame and now here are some better photos of that area after the frame was stripped.












At first I thought maybe my frame was brazed by the new guy on the line but I can see a line of braze were the original brackets were or so it seems..... No idea what may have happened here .....



Although the rest of the brazing isnt that pretty either







Now I am anxious to see how the painter prepped this area before paint.... I was on his ass for the last year to fix this so I could see it before he painted it but he didnt do anything until he did it all at once

Added above

Those are interesting pictures, Wade. Isn't that the way the world of motorcycle rework seem to go? And people wonder why it takes so long.

Thanks for re-doing the pictures.

As far as brazing goes the back 'guard tabs on the tail appear reworked. All other brazing looks relatively normal for the factory from what I can tell by the pics.
To provide detail, the frame tube/lug brazing was done in a very hot oven in the factory in a special process so the brazing on the structural elements of the frame look good imo.
Now the rear mudguard tabs may have cracked / broken off and thus been redone. No experienced welder will weld mild steel over bronze as that can result in a dangerous
molten combination. Most welders who know what they are doing can braze over bronze however, assuming they have access to brazing rod. So looks to me on the rear guard tabs that is what happened.

So I went to pick up the Victor from the shop and was pretty happy with the job that they did. They dumped out a couple 5 gallon buckets of Whitworth hardware for me to go through and find some replacement for my either missing or nasty looking or just completely wrong hardware on my frame.... Pinch bolts and shock mounting bolts and stuff like that. Mine had home depot bolts for pinch bolt and even nastier mismatched bolts on the Shocks... A few hours searching through hardware and I was golden.... Or as golden as I could be I suppose .....

Things I will need as I put this beast back together are becoming apparent as well.
Bent shock so I'll be looking for a pair of those.


I'll be looking for a rear fender as well. But here are a few photos of how the fender brackets turned out. It is not the nice clean factory job but short of that its a lot better then it was.















My fork caps were in bad shape so he put these on. Mine were more round on top so I will keep an eye out for correct ones but these will do for now


The new pinch bolt I sourced from the buckets look to be somewhat correct


Ill be needing these oil tank rubbers as these are just sitting on there with the bottoms broken off


A better photo showing the sweep at the end of my fender. This seems to be correct for the 66 model. And maybe only that model?
Correct me if I am wrong before I go searching for a fender


This image shows the pinch bolt I sourced which fits but I dont think its correct so I will look for a correct one


Another problem I am having is getting the axle all the way in. I think the thread are full of 3 layers of paint. Anyone have a reversed thread tap for the fork leg on a 66 Victor??????? Does that exist.... Other tips on cleaning out the threads?

Also it seems to be pulling the wheel over to the left . I dont see a spacer on the workshop manual but I need to no more before I proceed



Over all though I am pretty happy with the results and I am anxious to get started on polishing , rebuilding and learning more about this bike. All tips and suggestions are welcome. As if I wont have enough suggestions from Ruppert Ratio

Hi Wade,
The shouldered sleeve that fits from inside the RH wheel bearing and fits through the brake plate and fits into the fork leg
may be prevented from going into the fork leg by the paint, it's a fairly tight fit
When properly done up the brake plate shold be clamped to the fork leg
The tap for the fork leg is 9/16 x 20 LH, This size used to be common on old bicycle pedal cranks
I borrowed one from a long established cycle shop.
Here's a cheap set from China?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Right-Left-Hand-9-16-20-TPI-Unified-USA-Standard-Threads-HSS-Right-Hand-Tap-/302309574258?hash=item46630e0672:g:7-YAAOSwsjRZiCGl

HTH
John

good info THANKS John

Workshop was too cold to do any work over the holidays but that didn’t stop me from getting presents for my projects. Next Year I need to get a workshop with solid walls and heat.







Got the seat and fender from Peter's bsaunitsingles.com plus some other bits for the Primary chain tensioner ect. All seem very nice. Awaiting to be fitted when the weather is tolerable

And

Just to show how cold it was.... -3F as a matter of fact New Years Eve ..... Here are some photos of another project with the misses standing in the snow we got just after christmas.

High hopes of getting back to this project and I might even have some help to get'er done at the end of August. So I started cleaning up the parts that need cleaning and trying to replace what needs replacing. I want all the ducks in a row if help drives in from far and away

Im sure the cracked coil I have is probably toast so I think one of these will work ...

Is one better then the other for my Victor Enduro?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-Repl...ub-6v-Triumph-1966-67-68-69/201765758044

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Hi-P...t-Points-or-CDI-Single-Lead/311555293274

And will I be able to get the spark plug cap at any auto store?

Apparently they wont ship to the USA

if the tap you need is indeed 9/16" x 20 left hand, then any reasonable bicycle repair shop should have one. the cranks used on bicycles use a right and a left hand thread, where the pedals thread in. there are two sizes (the other being 1/2" x 20), with the 9/16" being the far more common size these days.

whether or not you can trust the person on the other side of the counter with your fork is perhaps a different story.

In preparation for Mondays bike assembly in PA , I am trying to do as much as I can here in NY. So I went to Hugh's (6th Street Specials) and he watched (from a distance) while I rebuilt my first Monoblock AMAL.... Except for a few gaskets I missed on the first assembly (wait I have parts left over moment) I didnt really need any help which I was happy about.... It only cost me a 6 pack too.... Im on a diet so it was tequila for me....

Also ordered a new ET coil .... My old cracked one surely will not work....

Progress Progress !!


The jets were 300 main, 006 Needle jet and 25 idle jet... Have to check to see if these are right.... Seems my carb is for a Hornet instead of a Victor but if set up right should still work.... Its what came on the bike so I hope so

Sunday was my day to work on the 1966 Victor project. Trying to get a jump start on it as Brian was coming to help on Monday....

I struggled with drilling holes in the fender and painted a few parts and organized the shop in preparation...

Got up early Monday morning and dealt with some work shyte on the phone then tried to fix my previous days fender mounting.... Got it so there was a little less tweaking and a little less tension ... Then Brian got there and the real work got done.
After a long day in the sweltering heat and humidity we took a rolling frame and installed the heart of the beast and cleaned out the axle threads on the front wheel solving the problems up front.... Back Wheel was a futile attempt because I was missing a lot of parts...spacers and other crap.....

Wired up the new ET coil I got from EMGO but never achieved spark... To many things to check .... One day was not enough....



But very happy with the progress we made...

We got showered and cleaned up while Gerry made some more Peach Daiquiris... We sat on the deck as the sun was setting and fired up the grill...

Good thing I made extra food cause we were hungry .... Fillet Mignon. Corn on the cob, Chicken marinated in Lemon and garlic , Roasted peppers and zucchini. Then Strawberries for desert... with hand whipped cream adding a bit of Amaretto to the cream while whipping it.... A Feast so good that we did not take one single photo...

It was a full(ish) moon and even though our bellies were full , the conversation was good and the beer and tequila were plentiful.....

That was the best weekend Ive had all summer.... Or at least one of the best.....


Other questions that arose are regarding the seat mounting

How does this mount , mount to the seat?




And even the back of the seat has me puzzeled ... Have to chech the parts book to see if I can figure it out ... Must be missing a bracket?

Yep according to the parts book Im missing the rear seat bracket. It only shows two holes in the front bracket. There are 6 holes on the front of the seat. So which two holes? The ones with the nuts welded to it?

Another question- What does the top of the air box mount to? Same clamps as the side clamp? Nothing is shown in the parts book .

Looks like your seat has welded in nuts to allow for a variety of mounting options for the front bracket which slots into the cross bar on top of the frame.

I would start with loosely mounting the seat and tank and finding the best position. You will then somehow need to find the best location for the front mounting bracket and work out where to drill the mounting holes which attach to the seat, which are currently missing from the bracket. After drilling the bracket, It would be worth using a round file to lengthen the holes into slots which should give you some further adjustment if needed.

The rear mounting bracket which you don't currently have should bolt to one of the welded in nut pairs somewhere in the middle of the seat. My 68 B44 Shooting Star rear mounting bracket slots in to the bolts on to the top of the rear shock absorber, yours may be the same or different?

I think that rear seat bracket also has a couple spacers to raise the seat, so that it doesn't ride on the fender.

As far as the front bracket, on the stock seats (don't know about your pattern) the front of the seat sits pretty low, and wants to slide you into the tank. It helps to put a spacer here also, I raise mine about 3/4" at least. Use a block to disperse the weight a bit.

I'll bet your parts book shows a quantity of 3 for the P-clamp that holds the airbox on... same ones for the top and side.

Wade, I will send you some pics of the air box hardware. The 67 parts book is a bit more accurate than the 66 parts books on the hardware for the air box.

I am looking for a rear single seat bracket Part number 40-9096.




And does any one know what these two rear wheel washers may have become? The part number do not show up anywhere on my searches
03-1049 and 29-7515

Number 5 and 33

03-1049

https://draganfly.co.uk/index.php/accessories-a-misc/product/5885-


A plain 5/8 washer.

Draw a blank on the other one.

Baxter shows both as available; 03-1049 is listed 5/8"x1-1/8"x0.067".
I have the seat bracket, I bought it when I put a single seat on my bike, but the repro seat didn't work with it.
It was listed as NOS, and the paint is; but the 2 central seat mounting were slightly drilled out and ovaled.
I can send you additional pics, or you can swing by and take a look in person



PM me if you're interested

AML PM sent.

So are we saying that these are just plain home depot washers.... Baxters has the 03-1049 like you said but 29-7515 still shows nothing in search results . Dragonfly and Baxters...

I could order the one from Baxters and copy it for the other side? But are they different..? Different part numbers
OR better yet just order two of the 03-1049..... ??

No it's a different size, looks like a shield washer to hold the grease in the wheel bearing.

I suppose then if one cant be found then I'll have to get a sealed bearing ... Assuming its thin enough that not having it in place wont change anything ....