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#833498 12/16/20 8:42 am
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Allan G Offline OP
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Can anyone tell me the number for what is often referred to as loctite plastic gasket in the manuals or it’s modern replacement?

I’ve seen:

567 (low strength thread sealing)
565 controlled strength thread sealing

Or is there another I need to be looking at? Or is plastic gasket still available? The use of such in the manuals is around threaded areas


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Loctite 518 is what I use for gasket replacement and for alloy to alloy joints without a gasket such as BSA timing covers.

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Originally Posted by kommando
Loctite 518 is what I use for gasket replacement and for alloy to alloy joints without a gasket such as BSA timing covers.
Yes, typically 518, or 515 for crankcase halves.

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Allan G Offline OP
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Thanks but probably not quite what I was thinking of although it may be used for the same purpose. When I’ve stripped parts which have been sealed with plastic gasket it’s almost like a shalak, when dried and the parts separated, the sealant becomes flakey (obviously needs cleaning and re application)

The Manual (service sheets) requests the use of this on certain threads (oprv being one of them)


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68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
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Wellseal is like Shellac, I think it is shellac with some other stuff in it.
edit,
it is like shellac in that it is naturally occurring, however rather than the sweat of the Lac beetle, Wellseal uses resins from pine stumps , Vinsol. Thanks LAB for the wiki link, fascinating

Last edited by gavin eisler; 12/17/20 8:58 am.

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Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Wellseal is like Shellac, I think it is shellac with some other stuff in it.

Pulverised Vinsol resin with some other stuff (Perchloroethylene, etc.) according to the data sheet:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulverized_Vinsol_resin

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Allan G Offline OP
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I did follow the link, but certainly not worth the cost for something that might have dried in the pot. As they say it’s more of a talking point (probably better kept in the loctite museum)

I use welseal on gaskets etc, though unlike the plastic gasket it’s only wicks in open air spaces, I say wicks as I don’t think that stuff ever really dries, least not like other sealants.

If I search the loctite website it shows nothing for the search of plastic gasket, just links to glues and resins that can be used to bond them. Though a google search did find something called loctite plastic gasket with quite a heavy price tag, in a modern bottle also so not something branded NV (I’m guessing by the lack of it being NVT, that must have been produced at some point in the 80’s after triumph closed its doors)

I did take Kommando’s advice and did a bit of searching of 518, 515 and 510. For someone unskilled they all look to do much the same job. But the 518 shows to be semi flexible and works with minor contamination of the contact surfaces. So I went for the 518, I don’t use a gasket on the A65 rocker box so this should prove to be fine to use here.

I’ve also ordered 567 as the thread sealant, it is low strength so ideal for fork top nuts where the service sheet requests it’s use it should also be fine for the OPRV top nut as it has a +150°c temperature range.


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68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
I did follow the link, but certainly not worth the cost for something that might have dried in the pot. As they say it’s more of a talking point (probably better kept in the loctite museum)

Yes, it was only meant to be an example of the actual product, I wasn't suggesting that you buy it.



Originally Posted by Allan G
If I search the loctite website it shows nothing for the search of plastic gasket, just links to glues and resins that can be used to bond them. Though a google search did find something called loctite plastic gasket with quite a heavy price tag, in a modern bottle...

Loctite sealant technology does seem to have progressed since "Plastic Gasket No.68" was available.


Originally Posted by Allan G
... also so not something branded NV (I’m guessing by the lack of it being NVT, that must have been produced at some point in the 80’s after triumph closed its doors)



Before rather than "after" as Norton Villiers became Norton Villiers Triumph (NVT) in 1973 (and when they dropped the NV green globe logo) so couldn't really have been manufactured later than '73.

The 064208 Loctite Plastic Gasket pack was mentioned in a '73 Norton factory service release.

Wellseal still seems as good as anything else in my opinion.

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Allan G Offline OP
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Originally Posted by L.A.B.
Originally Posted by Allan G
I did follow the link, but certainly not worth the cost for something that might have dried in the pot. As they say it’s more of a talking point (probably better kept in the loctite museum)

Yes, it was only meant to be an example of the actual product, I wasn't suggesting that you buy it.

I wouldn’t do, though someone might see the link and do just that. I cant grasp why someone would pay that much for a museum piece though.

Originally Posted by L.A.B.
Originally Posted by Allan G
If I search the loctite website it shows nothing for the search of plastic gasket, just links to glues and resins that can be used to bond them. Though a google search did find something called loctite plastic gasket with quite a heavy price tag, in a modern bottle...

Loctite sealant technology does seem to have progressed since "Plastic Gasket No.68" was available.

Indeed, but that’s why I asked if it was still available or if it had a modern replacement. Though whilst several answers were given at that time I didn’t “think” that it quite answered what I wanted to know.

Originally Posted by L.A.B.
Originally Posted by Allan G
... also so not something branded NV (I’m guessing by the lack of it being NVT, that must have been produced at some point in the 80’s after triumph closed its doors)



Before rather than "after" as Norton Villiers became Norton Villiers Triumph (NVT) in 1973 (and when they dropped the NV green globe logo) so couldn't really have been manufactured later than '73.

The 064208 Loctite Plastic Gasket pack was mentioned in a '73 Norton factory service release.

Wellseal still seems as good as anything else in my opinion.

That is interesting, I know very little about Norton or Villiers and didn’t know they were in co-op before 73.

I have enough wellseal to last me a lifetime, at one time I would have just used such a thing, I’ve often used threebond or similar to seal such threads, carefully applied it has never given me any problems. I think the more of these things I build I always try and find a better way of doing it at every level.


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68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
That is interesting, I know very little about Norton or Villiers and didn’t know they were in co-op before 73.

I'm not sure what you mean as 'Norton Villiers' was a company, not a "Co-op".

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norton-Villiers
"Norton Villiers (1966–1973)
In 1966 AMC went bankrupt and were taken over by Manganese Bronze Holdings which formed Norton-Villiers to oversee operations
."

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Allan G Offline OP
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By bad, I should have said ‘corp’. What I aught to have said was I didn’t know Norton Villiers was a a single company before the days of NVT... still, interesting reading.


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68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
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When working at a Honda dealership back in the dark ages, there was a problem with some cylinder studs that ran close to the main oil gallery. Any porosity and oil would find it’s way up the studs. The factory recommended Loctite 565 sealant. It works well and is still available. Not sure if the formula is still the same, because it doesn’t seem to stink as bad.
For cases, I prefer to use Honda Bond. Easier to just buy it... rather than trying to find the correct version of 3 Bond. Folks often say they use 3 Bond, but what version? When I asked 3 Bond about shelf life, the rep suggested keeping it in the fridge. If I was going to use Loctite, then 518.

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I’m using “1104 neo plus” 3 bond at the moment although it is different to what I have used before which was 1215. The 1104 is being sold by someone whom I know uses the stuff and builds a lot of engines, though I never had an issue with the 1215... but like you say it doesn’t last long. Probably get an engine build out of it or 2 if your doing a few of them before it’s set in the tube.

I used Wynns RTV sealant for a while, it’s what we used at one of the garages I worked at. Lasted longer than the threebond before it set, but this eventually dried up and I thought I’d go back to the three bond again. The cases got mated up with that though it probably won’t see any more use on the current build.


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71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
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I am a big fan of Wellseal.

I am also a big fan of Delta products. For rebuilding small two strokes (chainsaws etc) I use Delta 510 Multigasket. The concertina pack is great for dispensing it.

However Delta do lots of other products including various gasket sealants. Not the "brand" name of Loctite but for 90% of things they have a similar product and much cheaper.

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I don't think you'll be disappointed by Loctite 515 or 518. I worked at a tractor dealership. When separating the engine from transmission or the trans from the rear axle, 518 was required by the factory service Manual. Anything less would allow flex which would break the seal and then oil on the floor. It's strong stuff yet it is not difficult to disassemble or clean off the surface. I use it on my bikes. You can use it alone or with a gasket.
Al


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...510 seems better than 518 for the cylinder base.

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ive used 515, a lot in metal to metal sealing. trane pacific the refrigeration air con concern in hawaii used that stuff (515) in caulking gun tubes to reseal centrifical chillers sealing oil and refrigerant joints in their machines. which is where i first used it after reading about it decades earlier in my factory Norton Manual. the stuff is an anerobic cure and only sets up when the parts are bolted together.its great stuff when used on a lacquer thinner clean surface.it bonds really well. sometimes TOO WELL. its wise to have exacto blades or stanley knife blades to gently tap into the joint to cause a separation. and to clean the crap off,


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