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Posted By: SEATTLE GS 2 questions - 09/18/14 11:04 pm
Pearson sells a main bearing set for 75 pounds? sounds too reasonable.

The hole for the T/S main bearing is worn in my cases, Neil Keene did the work and plated the outer race on the bearing. Since then it has run well. I am about to replace the crank with either a Pearson or NEB and I will have to confront the wallowed hole problem once again. Any ideas on the best fix? Bore the hole slightly bigger, sleeve the bearing and reinstall with a new bearing?
Posted By: Boomer Re: 2 questions - 09/19/14 1:02 am
I wonder if Phil Pearson would have an answer for this. You would think he has dealt with this issue previously.


Bill B...
Posted By: SEATTLE GS Re: 2 questions - 09/19/14 1:44 am
I mentioned it to him a few years ago and all he had to say was "Oh Dear"
Posted By: Ron - in California R.I.P. Re: 2 questions - 09/19/14 2:19 am
If you do a search, this has been well covered not that long ago...

Ron
Posted By: 68triton Re: 2 questions - 09/19/14 5:46 pm
If i had that problem i would go to ABSAF. They do a metric crank / bearings and line bore the cases. Or get the right company to re-weld and line bore and choose a different crank.

I like the NEB crank / Omega forged piston set - up, but that is me.

On the last engine i rebuilt i used all C3 bearings:

Drive side roller = NSK

Drive ball = SKF (This is surprisingly cheap due to the popularity of this metric bearing).

T/s = Original Hoffman 12 roller sigle lip. I will not use anything else here (R and M also ok.) VERY RARE AND HARD TO FIND.


Mike.





Posted By: SEATTLE GS Re: 2 questions - 09/21/14 6:15 pm
Curious...why the hoffman only on the t/s? The others don't come close in quality?
Posted By: 68triton Re: 2 questions - 09/21/14 9:10 pm
Hi,

The original T/S imperial bearing is no longer made by the quality manufacturers, there may well be modern quality one's out there, but myself and others have had some bad experiences.

I am sure others will agree that you need to do your 'homework' when it comes to bearings or leave and trust the job to an expert.

I would be interested to know what other guys here are using? The other variable is of course is whether your are parading your Goldie or riding / racing her hard this will also determine what you can get away with.

Mike.

Posted By: Ron - in California R.I.P. Re: 2 questions - 09/21/14 10:55 pm
The last thing I would do is bore the timing side bearing hole. It is too thin from the beginning, which is why they distort so easily.

Ron
Posted By: SEATTLE GS Re: 2 questions - 09/27/14 2:15 pm
I ordered a set of main bearings from Phil Pearson. Also the NEB crankshaft. End of budget. I will pull the motor apart this winter and see how things are. My big experiment is to make a crank driven power arc ignition.

Any one know an outfit that sells small pulleys approx 3" and belts about 10mm wide for fabrication? something that would live inside a primary case?
Posted By: robcurrie Re: 2 questions - 09/27/14 11:51 pm
Stock Drive Products should have what you are looking for, here is a link:
www.sdp-si.com

Rob C
Posted By: SEATTLE GS Re: 2 questions - 09/30/14 12:58 am
thanks, I should be able to find what I want here
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