Started to "try" to remove the sludge trap on a basket A-65 a few weeks back. Realized its a little beast and scratched around for my drag link socket. Once found, the drag link socket was a little too big, but nothing a carbide cutter could not correct. Now find the little carbide cutter!!!
Got side tracked by the cold weather, chopping wood, grandson's car problems, daughter's car problems, my truck problems, caught covid and quarantined. More my truck problems.
Now all caught up mostly and thought about that little beast still stuck in my A-65 crank. Why is that sludge trap even there? One answer might be that modern oil filtering techniques had not yet been adopted. Which got me wondering where the sludge in the trap is coming from? Oh, its scavenged from the bottom of the crankcase by the oil pump back to the oil tank where it passes right through the oil screen at the bottom of the OIF and sucked back around by the oil pump to the crank and gets caught eventually by centrifugal filtering at the sludge trap. Oh!
So, if there was a proper oil filtration process, the sludge trap would be unnecessary. The sludge in the crank passage would exist elsewhere not at the most inviolate spot.
I need a proper oil filtration process. So far I have searched BritBike and found the words "Charlie type oil filter", "Motao filter". Just got to get it together.
The "sludge trap" is a short name for a full flow centrifugal oil filter. It take out every particale of debris in the oil that is heavier than the oil regardless of its size . They are very good & very efficient , till they get fully pluged up. And the sludge is timy wear particles and carbon from combustion.
Better check (and maybe replace) those wheel studs. There are specific torque ratings for wheel studs, and 300 ft. pounds isn't it.
Some "cowboy mechanic" over-torqued those on one of my trucks sometime in it's former life, and the first time I did a tire rotation, several of them broke. I decided to punch all of them out and pull in new ones.
The last thing I wanted was to have more of them break if I had to change a tire alongside the road.
Applying heat to the side of the flywheel adjacent to the threaded bolt hole IS A MUST. These bolts are supposed to be installed using Red Loctite.
They are hardened steel and quite brittle. You can break them. Especially if you don't release the Loctite with heat (and the surfaces were clean when assembled and it worked like it is supposed to). Old Loctite wasn't tollerant of oil covered surfaces) THEY DO BREAK!
Breaking them is a confounded nuisance. You will not be able to easily remove broken part from the crankshaft. It will also be difficult, if not imposible, to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft to make the removal easier. Best way is to have it removed by EDM.
Where does all of the sludge come from? Carbon created by combustion by-passing the rings. If your piston and head is covered with carbon chances are your sludge tube contains a lot of this carbon also. The carbon is so small that oil filters do little to keep it out of the sludge tube. Oil filters are good, but routine oil changes are a must in one of these engines.
The 71 WSM has 45 lb.ft. as the torque on the flywheel bolts, 0.38 ( 3/8) B.S.C. 26 tpi. Not 25 lb.ft., not 5/16".
I used 5/16" as an example (intentionally pointing out that you don't want to use the power of Thor to undo the bolts), I didn't have a set of bolts or a manual to hand for propper sizes and torque.
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
You guys are lucky I keep the WSM by the PC.
It does help a lot. I would usually refer to the WSM etc collection on my laptop, however the wifi card has failed and I haven't had the time to fix it.
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
A norton type cartridge filter can be mounted using a U clamp to the lower frame spine section, off set to the TS so it clears the back tyre, plumb it into the return line. As well as doing a fine job keeping the oil clean it also adds useful oil volume, never a bad thing.
My version of this: its still in prototype status, I don't really like a 3" U clamp going around the frame, but will fabricate a "nicer" bracket and utilise the rear footrest mount as additional support. Though so far it seems to hold up ok.