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Allan G, Beach, Kev Ev, KevRasen
Total Likes: 7
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#854398 07/22/2021 3:36 PM
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Hi all,

I thought I would share my experience with priming the new SRM oil pump during the engine rebuild on my 1966 Lightning.

During the re-build I have made sure to pump fresh oil into every orifice where oil should go and I have also applied plenty of Lucas assembly lube to areas where I thought it was required.

I decided to prime the pump before I put the cylinder head on by locking two nuts together onto the crankshaft drive side thread and winding the engine over with a socket on a speed brace.

My first attempts with a half full oil tank and the OPRV removed resulted in nothing coming through, after many pretty rapid turns on the speed brace. Enough to make me get a sweat on. I just could not get anything coming out of the oilways into the OPRV cavity.

I decided to drain the oil tank and then I removed the feed pipe from it and inserted a 60mm syringe full of fresh oil into it. When I pushed the syringe plunger to force oil into the feed pipe I was surprised at how solid it was. I assumed this was an indication of the fine tolerance that these SRM pumps are made to and the reason why I have read so much from people who have fitted them not suffering from wet sumping anymore?

Anyway I got my wife to apply pressure on the syringe, while I got back on the speed brace and wound the engine over again.

This time it only took a few seconds and oil started to dribble out from the OPRV cavity.

I replaced the OPRV and took the plunger out of the syringe, leaving the body of it in the feed pipe and loosely tie wrapped to the frame. I topped the syringe body up with fresh oil and wound the engine over again with the speed brace, as fast as I could. I could see the level of oil in the syringe slowly dropping and not long after I started winding the engine over I was very pleased to see oil pouring out of the sump hole into the plastic container I had placed underneath it.

I'm happy now that the oil is getting where it needs to and will carry on with the re-build.


Kev E
Liked Replies
#854436 Jul 23rd a 05:12 AM
by NickL
We all know David, you've told us often enough!
3 members like this
#854403 Jul 22nd a 05:52 PM
by Allan G
Allan G
When you get to start up stage, remove the sump cover and fit a pipe to the pick-up spigot (might be be best with an old washing up bowl or similar. Drop the other end in a litre of oil. Start the bike up and keep and eye on the tank, when you see return flow, block the end of the return pipe into the tank with your finger, this will then force oil to the rockers. Once you’ve done this oil should have no problem reaching the rockers from this point on.
1 member likes this
#854552 Jul 24th a 06:20 AM
by NickL
A couple of pumps from a pressure oil can in the inlet line is normally fine to prime these pumps.
You just need to overcome the anti drain valve and get oil to the pump.
1 member likes this
#854564 Jul 24th a 11:21 AM
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Originally Posted by andyame1974
I like Allen G and NicKl , i dea,s as i need to try and flush my engine with oil after 40 years of standing oil in the engine. As well as the primary and trany, Pretty much need to start with the engine. It has compression, oil tank flushed, new oil lines. ready. This a 67 engine with no oil pressure light, Without any indication. I,m reading every thing i can how to start this engine up again with providing a way to give it a good oil prime before it gets to run. My plan is to pull the sump plate drain what is ever there, reinstall refill with what ever i have, drain again, Then refill with ( any good suggestions?) Then Install vinyl clear oil lines for supply and return and with spark plugs out try to see any movement in the clear oil lines while kicking it over. If not I,m thinking of pulling the primary cover and turning the crank with the alternator nut useing a socket and drill or impact driver, I,d rather not try this if i can use the kick crank first but unsure which weight of oil to do this.

Other then useing temporary clear oil lines to visually see oil flow I,m out of idea,s with a engine that has not been started in 40 years which had a complete rebuild 1500 miles then . Kinda squeamish about useing the alternator nut as a drive as well. For sure the OPV and pressure to inlet line procedure makes sense but what oil weight would be best for the prime. I,m thinking 10 weight or less?

Hi Andy,

I had the cylinder head off my engine when I was turning it over using a couple of nuts locked on the drive side crankshaft threads (rotor position) and a socket and speed brace but I’m sure it would work just as well with the head in and spark plugs out. I found it a very easy and convenient way of turning the engine over and you really don’t need to go too fast to get the oil moving once the oil pump is primed.

I did think about using a drill to turn the engine over but my worry was that if the thing wasn’t held absolutely true and it snatched at all then I could cause a bit of damage to the crankshaft spigot and threads? I felt more in control and safer with the speed brace.

Allan is spot on about the return side and I already had the gear in place and plan to do what he suggested. I will have a short flexible extension pipe fitted to the sump pick up pipe and this will be submerged in flesh oil in a plastic bowl underneath. Once I see the oil coming out of the return pipe in the oil tank I will block it off until I see it flowing out of the pipe to the cylinder head. Once I’m happy that everything is primed and full of oil this way, everything will get put back together.

I’m using Morris Golden Film SAE 20W-50 for priming everything and once I’m ready to head out on the road I will drain the tank and sump and top up with Morris Golden Film Running In oil, as virtually everything in my engine is brand new.

Cheers, Kev E
1 member likes this
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