Classic British SparesKlempf British PartsBaxter CycleBritBike Sponsor SteadfastCyclesSRM EngineeringLucas Classic MotorcycleHepolite PistonsIndustrial tec supply

Upgrade your membership to: Premium Membership | Gold Membership | Life Membership | Vendor Membership | Site Sponsor Membership
Welcome to BritBike Forum!
Britbike forum logo
Member Spotlight
GrandPaul
GrandPaul
Leander (Central) Texas, USA
Posts: 7,745
Joined: January 2006
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Search eBay for motorcycle parts in following countries
Australia, Canada, France, Holland, Italy, United Kingdom, USA
Thread Like Summary
Allan G, Beach, gavin eisler, Rich B, ricochetrider
Total Likes: 12
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#846203 04/15/2021 6:43 PM
by ricochetrider
ricochetrider
Howdy guys.

So I just bought this bike, as you may be aware since I've posted about it here & in the R&T. I have some questions tho. For one thing the frame has tabs on the right & left side- 2 on the right & one on the left. I 1st saw the R side tabs and thought maybe it was for side car attachment points? But then noticed the single tab on the left.

[Linked Image from ricochetridersmotomojo.zenfolio.com]

[Linked Image from ricochetridersmotomojo.zenfolio.com]

Also, the fuel lines going to the carb are scrambled somewhat. I questioned this in my original thread and it was suggested perhaps they were done in such a way to accommodate the in-line fuel filters. Fair enough but how would the lines have been run from the factory?

[Linked Image from ricochetridersmotomojo.zenfolio.com]

[Linked Image from ricochetridersmotomojo.zenfolio.com]

Can anyone point me to a photo or diagram of the factory set-up please?

Would the filters be 100% necessary? I understand they could indeed be helpful.

Also this bike is very original.... but the current petcocks leak horribly. I know the cork could "swell" and oppose leakage but what's the harm in replacing them with better petcocks?

OK last question. I know (or have been told) the bike has a Boyer installed. If everything is working alright, is there any sense eliminating the zener diode and stator and installing modern replacement equipment?

Another note of interest, my bike also apparently has a new wiring harness- new that is, circa 2008-ish, under the ownership of the person I bought the bike from.

Let it be known (for anyone who doesn't already know me) that I'm not a purist level "rivet counter" type. Is it possible to celebrate a bike for being pretty darn original while simultaneously making smart changes and upgrades? I believe it is, so not sure why I even ask... laughing
MAYBE, as a "new" BSA owner, I'm not actively trying to p1ss the entire community off. Yet. wink

[Linked Image from ricochetridersmotomojo.zenfolio.com]

EDIT: you may note zip ties and varying errant cable routing in my pix. The goal is to button everything up and have things close to the way they should be or at least much cleaner than current.

Thanks guys!
Liked Replies
by Richard Phillips
Richard Phillips
I think the side covers are right for this machine.
2 members like this
by Beach
Beach
[Linked Image][Linked Image]Those tabs are on every 66 Tbolt I've seen. The hose from right would route behind carb and left along side of carb to fuel inlet. Company's make replacement valves for petcocks with orings instead of cork.
Attached Images
1 member likes this
by Steve Erickson
Steve Erickson
Probably for high pipe mounting (on other models)...?
1 member likes this
by Adam M.
Adam M.
Can't help you with frame tabs, fuel lines could be moved around, depends how you set your banjo on the top of the carb and they should be black rubber type, these translucent plastic lines are junk, get hard after a season. You could use different fuel taps, but they need adapters ( different thread in a BSA tanks ) and with adapters space between them and a cylinder head could be a problem. Original Evart taps are good and don't leak with good cork inserts. It's only problem with good cork inserts, from my experience its easier to buy them complete with plungers instead of cork inserts alone usually made from substandard cork and impossible to install.
If you have a Boyer installed, its more convenient to install a solid state regulator / rectifier instead of original separate rectifier and Zener diode, because its more difficult to buy a good Zener and they are expensive. I'd switch to 3 phase stator and use cheap 3 phase regulator / rectifier used in modern bikes, not to have to think about lack of electricity, but your situation may be different.
Monoblock , if in good shape should give your bike better performance than Concentric what I can experience with my friend's TR6 during our rides.
1 member likes this
by Mark Z
Mark Z
"Let it be known (for anyone who doesn't already know me) that I'm not a purist level "rivet counter" type. Is it possible to celebrate a bike for being pretty darn original while simultaneously making smart changes and upgrades? I believe it is, so not sure why I even ask... laughing"

Rivet counting is fine for trailer queens, but if the bike is to be a reliable runner, upgrades, especially in the electrics, are essential, IMO.

Breaker point ignition is much more forgiving of low voltage levels than electronic ignition. IOW, electronic ignition requires a healthy charging system. To that end, it's advisable to upgrade the rectifier or the rectifier AND zener diode with a rectifier/regulator unit (Tympanium, Podtronics, Boyer, Sparx, etc.). Upgrading the alternator is a nicety but perhaps not absolutely necessary, depending on how and where you ride.

Another matter of opinion, I don't think inline fuel filters are necessary. The petcocks have screen filters inside the tank. Adapters were touched upon above. Most aftermarket petcocks, i.e., ones that work and don't leak, are 1/4" (i.d.), but the holes in the fuel tank are for 3/8" petcocks. Adapters are available to bring the hole diameter down to a more standard size.

Another alternative to fuel line is regularol' automotive fuel hose. Inexpensive by the foot in most automotive supply outlets. I don't know the fuel line routing on a Tbolt with Monobloc carb. If a double-spigot fuel banjo will work on the Monobloc, I would think that's the way to go.
1 member likes this
by gavin eisler
gavin eisler
A 66 single carb would have two horizontal fuel lines from the taps , united with a T piece, then a short single line to a single banjo.
Clean out the tank and get rid of the in line filters.
1 member likes this
by Allan G
Allan G
Lower tab on right would have been for the rod type brake for the pre 65 models. The upper tabs were high level pipe exhaust mounts. Without seeing the number stamping it’s hard to tell but it’s possible one of the utility frames. They would make frames which covered several years, so if you had an accident and boogered the frame, your bsa dealer could fit a new frame abs restamp the numbers. (Often frames didn’t get stamped)
1 member likes this
by DavidP
DavidP
Originally Posted by ricochetrider
OK last question. I know (or have been told) the bike has a Boyer installed. If everything is working alright, is there any sense eliminating the zener diode and stator and installing modern replacement equipment?
'66, so what's that have, an RM19? With lights on at all times it might be a problem on short trips?
My Trident is the only bike I have with the original rectifier and Zener system, but it works. I put a Tympanium on the Bonnie, but it came to me with no rectifier or regulator.
My A65 had trouble charging on short rides, so I found a 3-phase and upgraded. If the system on the Trident ever gives trouble I'll probably do the same for it.
In my experience the rectifier goes bad before the Zener. I've replaced a lot of rectifiers, never a Zener. You can replace the rectifier with a modern SS unit, nobody will notice as it lives under the seat.
Whatever you decide, hide the new stuff under the seat, just keep that cool looking heat sink. laugh
1 member likes this
by Beach
Beach
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Interesting , the connection to the banjo in the picture above shows a threaded coupling, havnt seen one of those myself. it may be artistic license or a short lived item, it would be easy to wring the neck of a banjo with a seized thread.
I thick that's a poor pic of the nylon fitting that gauze filter fits in and bolt goes thru to hold on carb. Like one in this pic only would have angled connector.[Linked Image]
Attached Images
1 member likes this
by Beach
Beach
Originally Posted by Rich B
Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
. Your pics show a later type of side panels which do not fully enclose the carb

I’m pretty sure the 66 was the last of the winged badged side panels, so possibly the first or second year of the smaller panel? I know the Lightning rocket models of 64 had the over sized star and rocket type side covers.

IMO they didn’t get the size of these right until the OIF models.

Bongo (RIP) and I believed there were 2 different fiberglass covers in late 64 into the 65 model year dual carb bikes. Early dual carb road bikes had large steel covers notched to clear the dual air cleaners. Then a short lived set of somewhat more bulbous fiberglass covers in the general shape of the more common fiberglass cover. And finally the more common slimmer style cover that largely ran to the end of the dual carb dry frame bikes.

The late 65 cover was carried over into 66, then a slightly modified version that ran to 70.
My 65 LR has the slightly larger version of fiberglass covers. Looked like mine from my 66 but are def different. My 65 LR is an early model.
1 member likes this
by JD
JD
Hey Tom, when you decide what upgrade(s) you want to do, if you want to save yourself a little cash, I can head up there to help you do the work or you can bring it down here for a day or two. I've got everything needed to take the bike apart and put it back together in a nice, dry garage and a very comfortable bed in the guest room for a multi-day event.
1 member likes this
Job CycleBritish Cycle SupplyMorries PlaceKlempf British PartsPodtronicVintage MagazineBSA Unit SinglesBritBike SponsorBritish Tools & FastenersBritBike SponsorBritBike Sponsor






© 1996-2021 britbike.com
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5