Sorry, late to the party.
I burned out my Podtronics Reg/Rec.
200W single phase unit on a '68 A65L
Was about to order
when I saw another Podtronics 200 W, single phase that says I can eliminate the battery.
It is only $10 more
it’s basically like adding a capacitor but all built into the one box,
Ime, poor reasoning:-
. Capacitors have a limited life. When
(not if) the capacitor you paid an extra ten bucks for (and ten bucks for a capacitor seems a lot) expires, you're going to throw away a fifty-buck reg./rec ...?
If my battery goes out the capacitor will be used it restart the bike and get home.
. Many, many things on these old heaps might
stop you getting home. When the capacitor you paid an extra ten bucks for expires, it will
take out the battery; far more likely than a modern AGM or gel battery "going out".
Ten bucks is better-spent towards breakdown insurance, that'd get you home if anything
happened, including when the capacitor fails ...?
The negative side of the battery is fused.
Poor practice on 'positive ground' electrics.
If something metal touches the actual negative battery terminal and another part of the bike, a fuse in a wire connected to the negative battery terminal cannot prevent the short because the short is not through the fuse in that position. The wiring harness will be badly-damaged in only a few seconds, the bike itself shortly thereafter ...
'Positive ground' electrics, much better is to connect harness Red wires to one single Red wire, fuse in that single Red wire and only that single Red wire actually connected to the battery positive terminal. Then something metal touches the actual negative battery terminal and another part of the bike, only the fuse connected to battery positive will blow.
As Quinten started to post, but you probably know already, the Podtronics Black wire is connected to the Brown/White wire that used to connect to the centre spade of the original rectifier. Brown/White also connects one ignition switch terminal and one Ammeter terminal (the other Ammeter terminal is connected by Brown/Blue
to battery negative).
Podtronics fitting instructions about connecting the Red wire are confusing;
to be clear, it should be connected to the battery positive terminal, nowhere else (because anywhere else is pointless).
I’d suggest fitting a fuse to it
single fuse in the battery line
will not protect the regulator if it's wired directly to the bike's supply. The alternator can produce sufficient power to damage the rectifier/regulator, better to fuse that as a separate entity.
If you move the main/single fuse to the one-and-only (Red?) wire connected between the harness and the battery positive terminal, as I've written above, it protects more than any fuse in the Brown/Blue wire connected to the battery negative terminal.
The only thing neither of the above fuse positions protects is the reg./rec. itself. I concur with both Allan and Nick, the Pod should have a separate fuse in one of its DC wires, I suggest the Red one to battery positive.