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May 8th, 2022
Thread Like Summary
Allan G, Bob E, Kev Ev, The Bonneville Shop
Total Likes: 9
Original Post (Thread Starter)
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Hi all,

I'm wondering if anyone can shed any light on a problem that I am having fitting the chrome rear mudguard to my 1966 A65 Lightning.

I will start by saying that although my bike is a 1966 registered model, it is in no way original and has had lots of modifications since I have owned it.

When I first rebuilt the bike back in the late 80's I changed the frame for a later one (I believe it is a 1968 frame) because the original was in poor condition, having been abused by previous owners and suffering from a poorly fitted sidecar.

When I bought the bike it had a universal alloy rear mudguard fitted and I replaced this with a chrome one, that I bought at the Stafford Bike Show autojumble back in the 80's. It was not an original BSA A65 mudguard but was close and I managed to get it fitted but not with the standard brackets and fittings.

This time, on my current rebuild, I have bought all the standard rear mudguard fittings from Burton Bike Bits, which consist of the 68-6767 bridge and all correct bolts and spacers, along with their 68-6856 chrome rear mudguard.

My problem is I cannot get the mudguard to fit with the toolbox in place. If I remove the toolbox everything fits perfectly and the mudguards centre front hole is perfectly in line with the lug on the frame below the oil tank.

If I fit the toolbox, I cannot get the mudguard far enough over to that side for it to line up with the lug on the frame below the oil tank.

It is like the toolbox is too wide. when it is bolted in the frame the dzeus fastener is in the right place for the side panel, so it appears that the back end of the toolbox is protruding too far into the frame and preventing the mudguard from coming over to that side enough for it to fit properly.

I have checked in the parts books and the toolbox from 1966 all the way up to 1970 has the same part number, so I'm not sure what is going on?

Can anyone help please?
Liked Replies
by Chip H
Chip H
I would butcher the after market fender before the stock tool box.
2 members like this
by Allan G
Allan G
Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
68-6856 is listed as the rear guard for US-spec, and 68-6857 is the home-market designation.I don't know what the differences are,

The uk spec one has a hole at the bottom of the guard for the much larger British number plate. The US spec ones do not.
1 member likes this
by Allan G
Allan G
Originally Posted by Kevin E
Originally Posted by Allan G
Your lucky it fitted at all. The one I bought years ago just wouldn’t line up, all the holes were out of centre. My mate bought one not too long ago and this was so poorly made that he sent it back. With the one I had I had to re-bend the guard for it to clear the chain guard and the tool tray.

We both bought our guards instead from Autocycle who were one of the original makers of this guard. Whilst they come Undrilled the shape and profile is 100% match to the original old ones that I have. Unlike the BBB one which uses the wrong profile.

If it was my money I’d send it back.

Buy one of Chris at Autocycle unchromed. Drill all the holes you need, tack on the support plates if you desire or use large penny washers like I did (you can buy square ones to keep the original theme) then send it off to your favourite chromer. Cost will be comparable to the guard sold by BBB, but the fit will be correct.

Their front guards are the right profile though and a decent fit. Just the rears are terrible.

It’s a shame Allan, apart from the guard and toolbox interference it fits well and the chrome looks pretty good quality.

I’m not really keen on butchering the toolbox but may consider it.

I have sent Auto-Cycle an email to see what they can supply me and may go that route.

I bought the rear mudguard from BBB a few months ago and I’m not sure what their returns and refund policy is? I may have to write it off and put it down to experience. Nothing new with these kind of rebuilds eh?

Cheers, Kev E


I forgot to put the flat back headlight shell in my pile of stuff to be re-chromed, so for £40 I thought what the hell, these new shells can’t be bad... this one I bought was fine until I put the glass in the rim that came with it. I then couldn’t get the rim with glass onto the shell. The shell was actually more oval than square, probably being thinner steel than the original doesn’t help.

I tried an original rim and it went on, but trying to tighten the screw meant that needing a third hand to hold it all together (which I didn’t have) and slipped and scratched the rim. Needless to say I phoned the chromer who said I could add my old headlight shell to the chrome pile.

Everything else on the oif is original (or near as damn it) the rear guard was a T120 painted guard that’s gone for chrome. At least that way I know things fit first time without trouble.

The Autocycle guards as good though. As I say order the unchromed one, then drill 2mm holes and hold everything in place with self tapper screws. When you know you have all the guard squared as you want it. Take one screw out, drill it to size and put a bolt in. Then do the next one till they are all done, the bolt shouldn’t move at all. Also if you screw up with a 2mm hole chances are that your sized out hole will cover it anyway. Or a spot of weld would certainly cover it.
1 member likes this
by Gary E
Gary E
Kevin,
I recommend having doublers in the mounting holes where they are on original fenders, especially the very front one. Over the years I've seen multiple severely cracked rear fenders in the front area.
1 member likes this
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Originally Posted by Allan G
Did you put the curved bracing piece under the guard and between the two rear frame supports (effectively completing the loop) ?

Hi Allan, I did (see attached photo).

Couldn’t find one anywhere to buy so I made one out of some 25mmx3mm flat stainless steel bar. Put it through the rollers in the machine shop at work until I had the right radius, marked the holes on it through the mudguard, drilled the holes in it and put a radius on the ends, de-burred it, cleaned it up and Bob’s your uncle.

Cheers,

KevE
Attached Images
1 member likes this
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Originally Posted by Allan G
Nice work!!

These often get missed off and forgotten about and soon cause the guard to split.

If I can give one last tip... mount the bolts the other way around. One decent pot hole will have them cutting through the tyre.

Thanks Allan.

I have actually final fitted everything with the bolts & nuts the opposite way round. I actually did this because I thought it would be better to keep the nuts and threads away from any road crud thrown at them, I never thought of potential damage to the tyre.

The only bolts that I fitted the correct way round were the ones for the handrail below the rear light housing and the rear light/number plate bracket. This was just for aesthetics, as opposed to anything functional or logical.

The 1/4" bolts that come through the mudguard support bridge that spans the shock absorbers I have purposely made too long, so that there is extra thread there under the seat. I intend to use them to fit a custom made bracket to mount some micro relays for the electrical system. I've never been keen on putting full load current through switches.

Take care Allan, hope we get the chance to meet up at some point after the madness has gone away.

KevE
1 member likes this
by Allan G
Allan G
Hopefully not too long now, if the current lockdown plans continue as planned then our club will be able to officially hold its rally at the begining of July.
1 member likes this
by Kev Ev
Kev Ev
Just a quick update on the rear mudguard. As you can see it's all now sorted and the rear end is looking quite nice now.

The grab rail is a stainless one from Classic Bike Racks in Cumbria. It was a perfect fit out of the box.
Attached Images
1 member likes this
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