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Allan G, Cyborg, Nick H
Total Likes: 6
Original Post (Thread Starter)
by Ian Ashdown
Ian Ashdown
Hi,

I just picked up a nice little ‘68 T100C basket case project that I’ll be trying to bring back to as near new condition as possible, with a few non-visible enhancements possibly.

I have previously always had my frames and other ‘black bits’ powdercoated, was next door to my business before I closed it down, but I was never really happy with the authenticity of the appearance. I have my own spray equipment now and could do the work myself, but I’m not sure what would be the best paint to use.

Can anyone offer any thoughts, suggestions, guidance, red herrings etc?!

Thanks!

Ian
Liked Replies
by R Moulding
R Moulding
Whilst not always the case, etch primers are often referred too as "Wash" primers. This is due to them having a low solids content, it is therefore recommended to apply a coat of standard or high build primer over the top. This has the added advantage of giving you a surface you can work smooth which will help bring out the gloss in the black.

Current ideas on refinishing have ditched the use of etch in favour of an epoxy based primer. This is due to etch primers being porous whilst epoxy is not, you therefore have far superior protection from moisture using epoxy. You can also apply body filler over epoxy making the repairs far more permanent. A quick google shows that Lechler have an epoxy based high build primer on the market, I wouldn't hesitate to use their products.
2 members like this
by Tridentman
Tridentman
I prefer to brush paint bike components.
I use POR-15 ---degrease, phosphate etch then two coats of POR-15.
On tubes the POR-15 seems to contract as it cures--it tightens itself around the frame tubes and gives a great finish.
It is alleged to effloresce So I normally brush on a coat of gloss black top coat over the POR-15.
Why do I do it this way?
Firstly--no powder coat--I have seen frames with powder coating lifting off the metal but the coating seemingly intact. Rust can then occur under the coating.
Secondly---spraying a tube wastes more paint than it uses --and I am a tight wad. Additionally I am lousy at spraying.
The POR-15 paint when fully cured is extremely hard and resists chipping exceptionally well.
Just my personal preference and my two cents worth of course.
1 member likes this
by Allan G
Allan G
Originally Posted by Nick H
Allan, what color is that?

1971 dove grey
1 member likes this
by R Moulding
R Moulding
Reverb.
I've no wish to get into a pissing contest so don't take it that I'm trying. Epoxy primers are widely used in the paint, panel and restoration industry. I've never heard of issues using them but I will talk to my paint rep when he pops in next. I'm not sure if you're referring to cars in general or specifically modern cars, however manufacturers have not used traditional primers for a number of years. Instead body assemblies are coated with an "E Coat" this is, for want of a better description, powder coating with wet paint.

Alan and Mr Swede are far to kind.
1 member likes this
by R Moulding
R Moulding
Reverb, yes and I apologise for the confusion. The brain is a little haggled right now. Simply put epoxy and modified epoxy primers are currently the best on the market for coating bare steel, they offer higher adhesion and far better corrosion resistance. I have not personally had or heard of anyone having compatibility problems.

Either way, the world would be boring if we all agreed.
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