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by Mal Marsden - 06/16/22 7:00 pm
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splash
Total Likes: 2
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#834658 12/27/2020 11:29 PM
by splash
splash
Can anyone tell what wires go where or if any are wrong here in picture? I tried to read the schematic in the manual without luck I see 8 numbers manual and only 5 terminals in practice with no idea what is up or down. I also have many combinations of brown it is ridiculous to even color code so many different browns together.

https://ibb.co/qYSjYvW

Only with the double brown and white hooked up to the near open terminal I am able to get the headlamp to work. I don’t know if high or low beam but only one works. Brake light is either stuck on or running light is stuck on all time. I been having to take out fuse because I have a choice to have the headlight stuck on or tail light stuck on.

Any laymen simple diagram out there with focus on this one lighting switch? I’m just looking for something that shows what color wire goes on which terminal. I’m thinking the switch is faulty and needs to be replaced 🤷🏻‍♂️
Liked Replies
#834700 Dec 28th a 11:40 AM
by Stuart
Stuart
Hi,

Couple of things not mentioned so far that might help:-

35710 on the switch in your image is absolutely correct for your bike ("43 69" - Week 43,1969 manufacturing date - suggests it's original?); 35710 works exactly the same as 31788 and they were fitted interchangeably '68-'70 (to '74 on the T100).

Originally Posted by splash
tried to read the schematic in the manual without luck I see 8 numbers manual and only 5 terminals
Look more closely at the switch, "1" to "8" are moulded on the casing by each terminal or rivet hole ...

Originally Posted by splash
no idea what is up or down.
The switch should only fit in the headlamp shell one way - the shell hole should be D-shaped, the switch thread has a flat on one side. Mounted in the shell, wire colours connected to the correct switch terminals: switch lever to the left is all lamps "Off"; lever to the right is tail-lamp, clocks lamps and headlamp on (centre position is tail, clocks and pilot lamps on). Pilot lamp connected to terminal #6, headlamp (handlebar hi-lo switch) connected to terminal #8, both 35710 and 31788 turn the pilot off when the headlamp's on and vice versa.

Testing the switch out of the headlamp shell, amplifying post 834679, use either an Ohm-meter or a multi-meter set to Ohms, one meter lead end connected to terminal #4 (input from ignition switch), the other meter lead end connected to terminal #6 (pilot lamp), #7 (tail and clocks lamps) or #8 (headlamp) as required for testing; meter displaying very high Ohms is switch 'off', zero Ohms (on an analogue meter, near-zero on a digital) is 'working'.

Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Does your bike have an ammeter, if so, the double brown white would connect to one side of the ammeter.
Uh-uh, Ammeters have two studs with nuts, corresponding wiring terminals are rings.

Tape up the Zener spade terminal, don't cut it off the two Brown/White wires, that'll disconnect 'em and you'll lose the connection between battery -ve and the ignition switch.

Hth.

Regards,
1 member likes this
#834722 Dec 28th a 04:08 PM
by Hugh Jörgen
Hugh Jörgen
Originally Posted by Irish Swede
The switch shown in Quinten's drawing is a "flick switch," standard on 1968-74 500 Triumphs and some 650 Triumphs and BSAs.

When you get it wired up, all you will have to be concerned with is water getting into it.<snip>
I would just add that I found out the hard way you have to be very careful about keeping the spade terminals at their original angle, otherwise they can short against the housing. First good bump = blown fuse.
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