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Hugh Jörgen
Hugh Jörgen
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Joined: March 2019
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Thread Like Summary
chainreaction, gavin eisler, Hugh Jörgen, kevin, splash
Total Likes: 6
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#833807 12/19/2020 7:14 AM
by splash
How far should this lever travel? Something just ain’t right. This is the bottom of travel in picture for mine and it doesn’t travel much further up from here. The pull on the clutch handle seems much shorter than I can remember. If I go too tight with the adjustment it goes about half way and makes this click/pop sound again as it suddenly losses tension but does not come loose at the bottom end by gear box as it feels like it did at the top of the clutch handle. I been fighting this issue for some time now off and on. I just don’t understand. Is a part worn out in the mechanism assembly in picture causing this lever not to go down all the way? If I loose cable enough I can easily pull it down with a screwdriver blade in the inspection hole, sloppy. I seem to remember at one time this lever in picture was about half way of the inspection hole. See picture below.
Liked Replies
#833871 Dec 19th a 08:17 PM
by L.A.B.
A less expensive 9/16" deep offset ring* spanner fits my T140 and would be the same for a 650 I'd have thought.
*(US = 'box-end' wrench)

[Linked Image from]
3 members like this
#833950 Dec 20th a 05:13 PM
by DMadigan
After you have positioned the adjuster screw, if you pull the clutch lever to load the screw you can tighten the nut without the screw turning.
1 member likes this
#834359 Dec 24th a 07:59 AM
by DavidP
I always have trouble feeling the point at which the screw makes contact with the push rod. What I do is reach across to feel the lever in the gearbox case to see when it won't move. Back the screw off until I can feel movement at the lever. Then I put the screwdriver in through a socket and hold while I finger tighten the lock nut. Back off the screw a bit and tighten the nut. Check for free play at the lever in the gearbox cover.
Great tip about tightening the nut with the clutch deployed, thanks Dave!
1 member likes this
#834410 Dec 24th a 09:44 PM
by TR7RVMan
Hi All, The rod adjustment changes rapidly as plates wear or bed in if new.

I’ve observed a large factor in premature clutch wear is lack of rod clearance. I recommend checking at every oil change. That’s shout every 1500 miles. Now that we have the hang of it, takes 3 minutes in real life.

The #1 problem during adjustment is lack of cable free play!!! This cannot be overstated. With the screw ran in tight, reach up & verify the lever still has plenty of play.

The lack play with screw ran in is why owners get the clicking.

Also if cable is gummy or stiff, not sliding freely it’s hard to accurately feel the free play.

At the same time, zero rod clearance causes clutch wear, it can cause rod to spin against pressure pad in cam, causing great heat. This ruins the rod bushing in main shaft as well as rod + pressure pad & tip of adjuster screws. We’ve seen this happen on this group a few times already.

So this is not set & forget. It’s routine maintenance.
1 member likes this
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