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Thread Like Summary
Allan G, gavin eisler, kevin
Total Likes: 5
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#827927 10/27/2020 1:41 PM
by edunham
edunham
My B50 has a battery and capacitor just like the stock set up. I removed the box and mounted all the components under the seat. I don't have an ignition switch, just a toggle switch and the rectifier and zener have been replaced with a podtronics unit. I still run points. Wiring harness obviously isn't stock because of the changes. The bike starts right up on the battery from cold if the cap is disconnected. It starts right up on the cap from cold if the battery is disconnected. If both are connected, it takes a half an hour to forty-five minutes of kicking to get it to start from cold. Once it has started, it fires right up with both connected. Any thoughts as to why? I am assuming it is something in the way I wired it.

Ed from NJ
Liked Replies
#827931 Oct 27th a 01:53 PM
by triton thrasher
triton thrasher
The only part that makes sense it its being a B50 that won’t start.
1 member likes this
#828060 Oct 28th a 05:46 PM
by Tracey Spear
Tracey Spear
Lights
No Lights
Don't Matter
They are ALL our to get ya.
1 member likes this
#828070 Oct 28th a 06:34 PM
by Ignoramus
Ignoramus
i think the bsa engineers may have thought a battery was a good idea for some reason
1 member likes this
#828129 Oct 29th a 03:22 AM
by DavidP
DavidP
Originally Posted by Allan G
I think the bobbing up and down from the forks gives people the impression your flashing them to pull out.
Run with lights without a battery and they'll really think you're flashing lights at them, especially at intersections.
1 member likes this
#828255 Oct 30th a 04:49 AM
by DavidP
DavidP
Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by DavidP
Originally Posted by Allan G
I think the bobbing up and down from the forks gives people the impression your flashing them to pull out.
Run with lights without a battery and they'll really think you're flashing lights at them, especially at intersections.


I kinda agree and disagree but this is relative to what charging system you have.
A standard RM19/21 will be a different kettle of fish I think.
My only experience with running with only the big blue cap was a '74 T150 with the RM21 system. I used the old sealed-beam car headlight at the time, it dimmed at idle. The indicators only flashed at over 2000rpm, and hitting the dual horns at under 3000rpm would kill the engine. At least it would keep up with the brake light. laughing
I have been stopped by the police for "flashing" my headlight at them at intersections when revving the engine.
The cap will save from trouble starting when your short ride did not charge the battery though. I had one in concert with a battery on my A65. Once removed I had some dead battery events on short trips. That bike now has an RM24, no problems.
In short, the capacitor is fine for competition, or if you can get away with minimal electrics on public roads, but for a fully equipped street motorcycle it simply is not adequate.
BTW: If you decide to use the cap in concert with a battery put the cap on the switched lead. A leaking cap, directly across your battery, can wreck your day.
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