Posts: 2,073
Joined: August 2001
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Forums35
Topics76,290
Posts772,415
Members12,157
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Most Online151 May 8th, 2022
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Allan G, BrizzoBrit, chainreaction, D.Bachtel, Gary E, Gordon Gray, Hugh Jörgen, leon bee, ozziebsa, SpeedyV, Vincent Esposito |
Total Likes: 40 |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
The '65 Spitfire Hornet tank that I brought back from the dead. See earlier images. Now ready for base coat/clear coat primer/sealer then paint and clear. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/KzF7TVLF/IMG-1793-1.jpg)
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5 members like this |
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by Soupdragon |
Soupdragon |
I don't have a 65 Cyclone but I do have a 64! Just fresh out of restoration. Very happy with it, don't know anyone over here that's actually seen one.
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Since it is larger, and the fill neck is taller, it is more difficult to to install than the standard oil tank. Installation can be done from the right side, and it needs to go in before the rear fender is installed.
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1 member likes this |
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by Richard Phillips |
Richard Phillips |
Great job Gary. A few of us are purists we do it for many reasons and it’s never easy. Knackered nuts and bolts don’t cut it. Every detail has to be correct even if you can’t see it. It’s sort of the spirit of restoration. Plenty of room in the vintage motorcycle world for us all and it’s all highly respected.
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1 member likes this |
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by ljm |
ljm |
Gary
That is one fine job on that repair.I would have to say you definitely saved that cyclone. from the scrap pile.
ljm
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Back to the side cover repair. After multiple steps, Phase 2 is complete. All repairs have been made. After stripping the cover of its "as received" condition, it had multiple issues in need of repair, most of which were hidden by all of the layers of various colored paint over the years. It was not the worst cover I've had to re-build, but not the best either. An image of the typical issues after grinding out the bad areas. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/R02sgz9B/Side-Cover-18-1.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/QMmgWkzT/Side_cover_21.1.jpg) The cracks and ground out areas were reinforced on the backside. The top corner was reinforced when it is constantly pushing on the frame tube when mounted. As a result, this spot typically develops a crack in the paint over time.. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/V6Nq90yH/Side_Cover_22.1.jpg) The oil tank filler cutout is a typical spot for breakage. It was also reinforced on the backside. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/8c2LVy7q/Side_Cover_24.1.jpg) The chipped corner was reinforced on the backside, then filled in with flox for strength. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/v8kr9m03/Side_Cover_23.1.jpg) The missing leading edge was fiberglassed up and then built-up with a flox mixture for strength. A top layer of glass was added to avoid any possibility that a crack could develop. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/tRYwd2jy/Side_Cover_26.1.jpg) The cover is now ready for primer and paint.
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1 member likes this |
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by ljm |
ljm |
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/vHFhDt0N/IMG-1548.jpg) Gary The sidestand that was on my west coast hornet is the one on the left. It has attach points that are thicker than the 66 sidestand and a different bolt. Of course it could be the wrong one that was on it. The parts number say the 66 and 67 years are the same. Which one goes on it?
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1 member likes this |
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by ljm |
ljm |
Gary
Ok thanks. That was about the only thing that I have found on this bike that wasnt correct. The only other thing was the side covers. Someone had trimmed about a half inch off the top of the covers. Probably had nicks on them. I looked at them for a long time scratching my head.
ljm
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1 member likes this |
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by BrizzoBrit |
BrizzoBrit |
I have a folder with 63 pages recovered from archives or somewhere. I've not looked at this in some time, but I just quickly looked at a couple of pages. None of the photos on those 2 pages have been photo*ucketed. All pages are saved as MHTML files. Someone smarter than me must know how to recover this. Or at least make a repository of these files so they are accessible. There was some effort underway at the time which seemed to work, but not sure what happened with that. I would be exceedingly happy to see this material get back into circulation and will pass on copies to anyone who could do that. Gary as OP you might PM me and I might be able to share on dropbox or something. This might be the most useful thing I've ever done in my life.  Ray
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
With the help of Richard P. and BrizzoBrit I got the last couple of parts sourced for the NOS ET coils. Assembled them to the triangular brackets and temporarily mounted on the bike. I had to fabricate the "U" shaped wire tabs on the condensors as I didn't find a Lucas part number for them.
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1 member likes this |
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by VicCyclone |
VicCyclone |
Thanks, Out of Stock everywhere including Queensland. I probably will have to make one. It could be worse. Burton Bike Bits still have 66-5541 listed as in stock. I bought one a couple of years ago. It is the original M20 part with a small diameter hole for the spindle. I drilled out the hole and had it replated. The actual A65 part with the larger hole is 68-6102
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Glad you revived the thread. No dogleg, nor right angle bends. Bent in the middle, then more at each end. But each ends bend is different. I've always found I have to tweek the bends a little to make both left and right sides fit correctly. Typical BSA. They both have the same part number.
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Bringing a '65 Spitfire Hornet tank back from the dead. AS RESCUED ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/kGMJspkT/Tank-3-1.jpg) Multiple layers of paint stripped down to the original gelcoat. Gelcoat heavily deteriorated. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/KYvhdM9Y/Tank-12-1.jpg) Prior attempts to seal the tank. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/yNQCB85y/Tank-14-1.jpg) Lots of tank rot. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/j5D0jrY0/Tank-24-1.jpg) All deterioration and damage repaired and filled. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/rFp3JkYB/IMG-1603-1.jpg) All previous attempts at sealing removed, seams and tank rot repaired and filled.
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Before and after first batch of parts back from the powder coat shop for '65 Spitfire Hornet restoration. I prep them before I deliver them to the powder coater. Time to start assembly. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/nr9m3Drh/Powder-Coat-1-1-1.jpg)
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
Gary.......I probably just missed it but how in the world do you get that BEFORE look? Vapor or some type of media blasting? I have a soda/media set up but mine wouldn't get those bits looking THAT good.
Gordon I utilize 80 grit glass bead blasting medium in the blast cabinet. It works well, but some parts like the brake drums where the original black paint has been baked on can be very stubborn and slow to remove. I use it to clean aluminum parts before the polishing process, and also to clean and remove paint from fiberglass parts. If the blast gun is not held in one place it works fine on gel coated parts. Epoxy paints are stubborn to remove, as are powder coated parts.
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1 member likes this |
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by Gary E |
Gary E |
I find methylenechloride based paint stripper removed powder coat even quicker than it does "normal" (wet) paint. its otherwise a pain to remove.
I had some new harris (powder coated) foot pegs, I started off using the powder as a base for the dove grey and primer but it didn't like the etch prime much, so removed it with the m.c. stripper and it came off almost in one piece. I usually burn the powder coat with the ac torch, then it comes off in the blast cabinet.
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1 member likes this |
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