Reflective color matching is an art. It requires an understanding of why color changes depending upon the source of light illuminating the object. The top picture is as the iPhone caught the light from incandescent bulbs.
What you see on your computer is influenced by the color balance of your terminal.
The lower picture was brought into photoshop and adjusted closer to what I was seeing (with no tint of green) when I took the picture. The carb bodies were more light silver than even the lower picture interprets the body color.
While I appreciate what people are looking for. You must understand to make comparisons of reflective color the original, and the copy, must be viewed under the same light source. View color under sunlight and it will look different under flash, strobe, incandescent, LED and fluorescent and the color temperature of each. As I said above this was a question asked some 40 years ago, according to Barry Johnston they used whatever color supplied by IMI company stores. And when you look at a draw full of GP and TT carbs under the same light source they vary a lot.
MM, do you have any Amal brochures? Wonder if bels‘s post is accurate. I haven’t seen any that mention paint, but haven’t seen many brochures.
I found six different ones for the GP and GP.2 and two for the TT, but a very quick flip through them didn't show any mention of finish. I'll have more time to look 90 min. from now (but by then might have forgotten ...).
Thanks, I’ll add those to my image collection. My fuel proof comment stemmed from this.. although considering the length of exposure ( dribbling out the vent) it likely would have be resistant to a reasonable degree. I was just being.....
I have a rather rare TT that has a broken spring clip and the “air funnel” as they call it is seized. A strap wrench doesn’t have enough bite to break it free, so I tried an experiment with one out of the parts drawer that was suffering from the same problem. The nut was lose, but damaged from someone using a pipe wrench and it has a mismatched jet block.
Submerged the air tunnel in molten Cerrobend. When solidified put in the freezer overnight. An aluminum bar that was a reasonably snug fit in the slide bore was heated on the stove and installed in order to help quickly heat the carb body, give a bit of leverage and help prevent in warping or distortion when rotating the body. A propane torch was also used to add heat to the body. The large lump of cold Cerrobend kept the air tunnel from expanding. Turned the carb body off which took a fair amount of force. Threads were “ok”, and there was black material that could have been some sort of thread locker. Put the can with the air tunnel back in the oven. The Cerrobend is more dense that aluminum, so the tunnel just bobs up to the surface. Turned the hash marks off the nut and used an end mill to clean up the slots.
Fortunately I haven’t had too much trouble with the lock nuts, it’s just the stacks. I thought about making a wrench with 2 tangs, but you have upped the anti. Very nicely made. I’m assuming that was cut out with CNC water jet? I’d probably never get around to assembling any bikes if I had access to one of those.
Me too if having a CNC water jet. Actually though that wrench tool was made by hand. Sometimes, too much idle time will spawn innovation.