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I don't usually post progress stories on my rebuilds because I am so slow. When this one arrives I will assess the condition and decide what to do. If the bike cleans up pretty well and looks half decent I will assemble the engine and get the bike on the street for a while. Then maybe do a complete restoration. I am moving the photos over from the garage sale to show the starting point for the build

A70L 8.JPG A70L 6.JPG A70L 7.JPG A70L 5.JPG A70L 4.JPG
Last edited by bsalloyd; 04/03/23 1:40 am. Reason: added photos

1951 ZB GS
1953 BB GS
1953 Super Flash
1954 Vincent BS
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1956 Triumph T110

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and a couple more

A70L 3.JPG A70L 2.JPG A70L 1.JPG

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1954 Vincent BS
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You got a really good deal there with that bike, I was one of the interested parties and was prepared to offer a lot more for it.

Good luck with the rebuild and probably restoration. Being one of the last A70s ( i think) that left the factory and being so few in the first place of a rare model it would be a real shame not to restore it to its former glory.

Best regards


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68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
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A total restoration is the goal. I find if I can ride it around for a while it helps me concentrate on completing the restoration.


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1956 Triumph T110

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Bookmarking this thread, can’t wait to see this one come together in whichever form you choose


1957 Triumph T110 project
1966 Triumph T120TT project
1967 Triumph TR6C
1972 Triumph TR6R
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Originally Posted by Allan G
You got a really good deal there with that bike, I was one of the interested parties and was prepared to offer a lot more for it.

Good luck with the rebuild and probably restoration. Being one of the last A70s ( i think) that left the factory and being so few in the first place of a rare model it would be a real shame not to restore it to its former glory.

Best regards

I agree. I've never come so close to doing something stupid and adding to a collection of planned projects that I would probably never complete in my lifetime as I did in considering buying this bike.

Glad it's going to come back to life. We're not in a hurry, but if the fact that people are watching helps motivate you into working on it, then that's a healthy thing!

Lannis


I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.
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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
and a couple more

bsalloyd - Is that the A70's crank?

Mine looks so much different than yours. The flywheel has been seriously lightened. Supposedly factory done.

Last edited by Semper Gumby; 04/03/23 9:29 pm.

Have a basic plan and then let life fill in the blanks.
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Originally Posted by Semper Gumby
Originally Posted by bsalloyd
and a couple more

bsalloyd - Is that the A70's crank?

Mine looks so much different than yours. The flywheel has been seriously lightened. Supposedly factory done.

All a70 and last of the A65 were like that. The width of the scalloping differs between the 650 and 750.


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Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
All a70 and last of the A65 were like that. The width of the scalloping differs between the 650 and 750.

IDK - Something looks different Allan. Mystery...


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The width on the late A65s between the scalloping is 40mm. When I converted an A10 crank for my A70, I estimated that the width was 35mm from the attached photo I saw on one of the forums.
A65 on left, A70 on the right.
Good luck with the rebuild, I'll watch your progress with interest.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Last edited by Servodyne; 04/05/23 7:25 pm.

1957 BSA A10 Spitfire
1971 BSA A65 Firebird
1971 BSA A70 Lightning
1975 Norton Commando
1961 Norton 99
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Nice find! I look forward to seeing it once it's together.
I always had one question about the A70. The pictures I've seen show it as having a triple oil cooler. I never measured over 170 degrees oil temperature on my A65 with a tiny chopper oil cooler. Do these bike really run that hot or was it just that they were only designed for flat track racing?


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The OIF was a little low on oil capacity and not the best for oil cooling at constant 6-7500rpm
I don't know how long the flat track races were but when those lumps were/are 'pepped up' they
could produce 70bhp. so a cooler wasn't a bad idea.

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Sorry I can not answer many questions about this bike. It is the first unit construction type I have overhauled. I should know more after I complete it.


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According to what I have found it was the tenth bike to come off the line in June 1971. I will still send the details to the BSA owner club for dating.


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Races were usually 25 laps.Not sure is that applied to all TT, short track, half mile and mile.
Dave Aldana's bike does not have a cooler but Jim Rice's does, from 1971
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
Trackmaster frames had a smaller backbone than OIF's but the fill was at the headstock.
This is a Tri-C Trackmaster frame which has a sheet metal extension to the top backbone for more oil. Not sure if the original Trackmaster had this.
[Linked Image from bikebound.com]

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The bike arrived at my home 4/18/23 at 5:00 AM. I will post pics once I get everthing unboxed


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Two photos of the bike after the sun came up

20230430_111548.jpg 20230430_111534.jpg

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I thought you said you were slow with your rebuilds.

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Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
I thought you said you were slow with your rebuilds.
I bet it's an inventory build to see what's missing. But it looks mostly all there.

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Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
I thought you said you were slow with your rebuilds.
I bet it's an inventory build to see what's missing. But it looks mostly all there.
I like my story better smile

There don't seem to be many obvious parts missing, so I'm looking forward to the blow by blow rebuild, with lots of pictures.

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Could just be bad lighting on those first pics.


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It looks like I could just drive away on it, but that is nut the case. So, tear down is coming.


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
It looks like I could just drive away on it, but that is nut the case.......
Agreed, No chain, kicker, shifter or spindle, clutch cable and probably no guts in the engine.

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It is the small details that cause the issues


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Fortunately, most parts are the same as the A65.

It's the unique parts which will cause the most delays if any are missing or worn.

Do you have the A70L pages for the 1972 parts book? I can scan them if you need them.

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The seller provided all of the tech information. He sent me the title, parts manual, and over haul manual.


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I am beginning to sort out the Fasteners for the rebuild. Are the Fasteners cad plated, zinc plated, or something else?


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Cd which you can not get now days unless you know some one who does military / avaition Fasteners and is willing to risk big fines for you
Sand blasted stainess is the closese appearance wise but it will rust so requires a lot of maintanance .


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If it is cad, I have a place here in Texas I can use. They do the aviation work in the Dallas area.


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
If it is cad, I have a place here in Texas I can use. They do the aviation work in the Dallas area.

Sssshush
You know where you can get a very similar appearing finish to the original done.
We would not like to make people think we are doing anything illegal .


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It is just like the original, but, I do not know how they do it. Honest officer


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I have not been able to find a law prohibiting cadmium plating for hardware in the U.S.
While OSHA cadmium exposure regulations & environmental disposal regulations affect cost and availability of cadmium plating and some state laws restrict the sale & use of cadmium in specific items such as packaging and jewelry, it does not appear to be illegal in the U.S. for an otherwise compliant plating business to cadmium plate any hardware sent to them or for anyone to use cadmium plated hardware on their motorcycle.
Whether they will do it and what they charge is their choice.

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It isn't illegal. Regulations are strict and most companies don't want to deal with the high investment and operating costs for such a limited market. Chrome plating is in the same sinking ship.

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We have a platers near us in Sheffield that do plating work mainly for industry like equipment in pharmaceutical. The work isn’t cheap but I basically sent everything on a bike for £150 and could have done about 3 times the amount.

The plating is zinc but it isn’t like the junk a lot of chrome platers use which turns scabby after 12 months and the colour can be matched to pretty much anything. What I got was a little greyer than I would have liked but it still looks good and the quality is second to none.

Last edited by Allan G; 05/12/23 9:01 pm. Reason: Spelling

Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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OK, new subject,paint I have been researching the correct paint color to use for tank and side panels. I have heard that Etruscan bronze was used. However, this color is only shown in the 1972 parts manual. That manual would be use for bikes with vin numbers beginning JG00101. No such bikes were built. Most information I am hearing is they were painted the same colors as the 1971 A65 Lightning. In the 1971 parts manual this color is listed as bronze with white lining. According to the original BSA paint list Etruscan bronze is listed as /322. The bronze for the 1971 A65 is listed as /295 C6712 with Postans 03638 white. I believe BSA would not add a new paint number to the list if they were the same.


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Etruscan bronze for 72 was on the thunderbolts, the lightnings were red (I know yours is an A70) conversely the 71 was orange / Etruscan bronze

I have seen 2 shades of this colour on Lightning side panels and another on an original brochure that I have.

I’m a big fan of sourcing NOS panels, mainly for colour matching purposes.

I’ll try and add some photos below….

Ok.. so the first two are off the article, this is 71 Lightning but it will give an idea of the colour.

The 3rd one is of a 71 (with correct scheme for 71 big tank) and the colour on that shows more similar to the article.

Lastly showing the original painted thunderbolt tank of mine and the white of it, some people think it’s ivory or dove grey, but it was just white (and I think the article pictures back that up too)

Though, are we sure that those small few 72 A70s used the previous year colour scheme? Or would they have used the Firebird Red like the Lightning?

I have some more photos I will add also

FullSizeRender.jpeg IMG_0564.jpeg IMG_0135.jpeg IMG_2903.jpeg

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Now lets all have a beer!

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My '72 t'bolt was that 'excruciating bronze' colour..........well, that and rust anyway.
Or maybe it was 'excreting bronze'.

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Alan, Are the A70L’s 1971 or 1972 models. All of the ones I have seen are stamped with second letter code’E’ which is 1971. The 1972 parts manual states it is for bikes coded JG which is 1972. At BSA in Maryland, USA a bulletin was issued in March 1972 which states the A70L was painted Firebird red lined white. Regarding the two colors you have seen BSA the 1971 bronze color is listed as, bronze with white, /295. The 1972 bronze is listed as Etruscan bronze with white, /322. These colors are from the original BSA color list. I believe the two years were painted two different colors. Mine will be painted in the 1971 color scheme which is more orange looking than the1972 color.


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There was only about a handful of bikes built in 72 and those of which were all the same month as yours, the rest I believe were all the 71 model year.

It’s hard to know what colour those 5 bikes were, unless someone has images from that time or owned one from that time. It’s possible the tank was all red, much like it is now but maybe a different shade. Or they could have used up some tanks prepared from the previous year.

Not here is an A70 picture somewhere (and it appears on a video) from 72 with a 4 gallon tank of which I think I recall is like the picture above but chrome as the main section and red for the stripe.

I’ll try and find it later.


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Now lets all have a beer!

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I think there were either 3 or 5 1972 models made. As Allan said, those seem to have had a variety of styling treatments, so were probably sent out to see which people liked best, or perhaps hated least.

Tthe bike with the red UK tank and white stripe behind the "BSA" decal may have been the Donelson bike. That was covered here earlier, but do you think I can find it?

As far as I know, the 1971 A70Ls were essentially the same as the A65 Lightning, with the possible exception of a fluorescent stripe on the tank. If the fork sliders are ribbed, it'a a 1971, if they're polished and not ribbed, it's a 1972. I'm fairly sure yours is a 1971.

Mick Page of Burton Bike Bits restored an A70L years ago, and BBB has an online A70 register. I'm not sure all the details are correct.
Angus Campbell in the UK is putting together the full 1971 "Power Set" range. He has a number of YouTube posts of the work on his A70, so he might be a useful contact. The so-and-so has a pair of Bandit/Fury 350s as well, which are now running.

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I’ve just gone back through the photos the seller of your bike sent me as I too wanted to buy it, the GE bike which yours is was sent to Baltimore and despatched 30-June-71

It it would have had the Lightning orange with fluorescent stripe, though all twin carb bikes had that same florescent stripe. So the article I posted but with a black frame would be correct.

Mick at Burton Bike Bits still had the original sticky stripes from the last time he mentioned it on a Facebook forum not too long ago.


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Alan, do you know of anyone who has the paint code or the correct for sale? Thanks, Lloyd L


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I know a person in Houston who owns an A70L. His fra is lower in the back than mine. Did BSA revise the frame to lower the seat height?


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BSALloyd——I have been struggling with ascertaining the paint specs for a 1971 BSA A75RV that I am restoring.
I have a further complication in that the frame etc should be dove grey rather than the black which the basket case I bought was painted.
The red color of the tank and side covers was apparently used for only a short period of time.
Don Hutchinson of MA is renowned for his knowledge of colors for Triumph bikes and I have used him for Triumph bikes in the past.
On the off chance I called him ref my BSA problem and he was most helpful.
He had the formula for the dove grey and also for the red color and I bought both paints from him.
I recommend that a call might be well worthwhile.
HTH

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Thanks Tridentman, He is already been contacted and is checking for the correct color. Lloyd L


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And just to add to the general comment.
The tanks were spary painted in batches by different operators so no two would have been the exact same colour
When Steve was busy venting his spleed all over the bike press for BSA destroying his excellent styling he mentioned many times the QC on paint colours was discusing and the only consisant colour was for the frame parts that were dipped and even they there were differences.
If you get your hands on period literature you will see a lot of critism about the quality of the paint which I think Cycle World wrote "appear to have sun faded on the ship coming to Amercia .
So do not beat yourself up over an exact colour match, it does not exist
And finally no matter what colour you paint it at least 1 in 10 people who come across to look at it will tell you in a voice loud enough to hear clearly for 50 yards around that you got the colour wrong .
So unless you are trying for a $ 100,000 austion sale bike, find an orange that knocks your socks off and makes you go WOW every time you take the cover off it .
And apparently the Ivory which the whole tank is painted in before the orange goes on was just as wonky


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A70L from Schoenewald's collection
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

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Originally Posted by Tridentman
BSALloyd——I have been struggling with ascertaining the paint specs for a 1971 BSA A75RV that I am restoring.
I have a further complication in that the frame etc should be dove grey rather than the black which the basket case I bought was painted.
The red color of the tank and side covers was apparently used for only a short period of time.
Don Hutchinson of MA is renowned for his knowledge of colors for Triumph bikes and I have used him for Triumph bikes in the past.
On the off chance I called him ref my BSA problem and he was most helpful.
He had the formula for the dove grey and also for the red color and I bought both paints from him.
I recommend that a call might be well worthwhile.
HTH

I nearly said that I have the paint code for the dove grey as I had it colour matched.

Originally Posted by bsalloyd
Alan, do you know of anyone who has the paint code or the correct for sale? Thanks, Lloyd L

I will take a photo of the NOS inner side panel that I have, but the colour is more like the 72 variant than the bronze than the 71, but it is a lightning panel as the thunderbolt is cut different for the carb. The lacquer on it seems to have faded too, despite it being in the brown paper for all those years.

Going back to the green, I bought panels for all over the world for it, didn’t quite get a full set but I think it’s safe to assume that they were painted at different times. And whilst the finish does vary slightly they were all the same colour bar one which was the tiniest bit out that I doubt most people would spot the difference and all matched the untarnished lacquer under the tank. But those were in good condition.

The thunderbolt I did a Mercedes Elbait green, when I do a twin carb oif, that will go as either Nissan Katsura orange or Renault Valencia orange.


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Some photos and a link…

In the link there are some original panels, the thunderbolt panel is either NOS but definitely original.

The orange panel on the right looks similar to the colour on Dave’s photo and the rear quarter panel looks a little like some of the other “original” bikes I have seen. Personally I would settle for either of those colours. I would have bought the set but the price is a little high for my liking.

EBay link

This was the panel I bought. EBay link 2

And this is the Katsura Orange on a test card. Note that these colours really do “pop” in the sunlight and this was taken on a less than sunny day.

[Linked Image]

Same colour under light

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I would need some clarification here on when they changed from Dove Grey to black frames. I thought it was July 71 for A65’s, but I believe all but a few A70’s were black frames. But for those interested this is the colour match.

The frame painted by me, the bracket original, just had a bit of polish to clean it up. Code EC11195. Whilst I like the dove grey and it was the original colour for my frame… if I was to repaint the frame, I would do it black.

[Linked Image]


If you have the ribbed forks, the finish was the original cast appearance and only the rib was polished. I taped the rib off on mine, had the sliders vapour blasted and then rubbed the rib with some fine wet and dry.

Last edited by Allan G; 05/14/23 9:15 am.

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Originally Posted by Allan G
I would need some clarification here on when they changed from Dove Grey to black frames. I thought it was July 71 for A65’s, but I believe all but a few A70’s were black frames. But for those interested this is the colour match.
As far as I know, `the frames were painted black by the May 1971 (EE) bikes.

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Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
Originally Posted by Allan G
I would need some clarification here on when they changed from Dove Grey to black frames. I thought it was July 71 for A65’s, but I believe all but a few A70’s were black frames. But for those interested this is the colour match.
As far as I know, `the frames were painted black by the May 1971 (EE) bikes.


You could be right, I think by July it was coming towards the summer shut down so May might be more realistic as they were already paying dealers a a good wedge of money to repaint them. My “thunderbolt” (which is really a Lightning dressed up as a thunderbolt) is EE, that was painted black… but the paint underneath is was dove grey, as was seen with all the contact points were exposed (like swing arm removed etc), the thunderbolt frame I have is DE and that is the same.

My friend just sent me this… but it’s a good example of the original paintwork, you can still see the halo from where the original stripe was
EBay Lightning


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My bike came off the line the same year and month, its also GE, the frame was black, AFAIK, the change from Dove Grey to Black started in May 71.


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FWIW my 1971 A75RV certainly was dove grey overpainted (badly) with black.
I could hear the dealer in US saying to the most junior fitter "Heres a tin pf black paint----paint all the grey on that BSA so that we stand a chance of selling it"!
The bike is matching numbers PE (November 1970).

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Thanks for everyone that chimed in on the paint selection. I am not sure any of the participants have a copy of the 1972 parts correction put out by BSA in Maryland. It give the colors for the 1972 model and correct all of the part numbers for the USA bikes. You will see that Etruscan Bronze is only mentioned for the A65T model. The A65L is shown as solid Firebird Red and the A70L chrome Firebird Red with white lining. I believe that is the scheme of the Donaldson bike. The bulletin will not load in a format accepted by the forum. If you would like to see it send me your email with the private message feature. Lloyd L

Last edited by bsalloyd; Yesterday at 08:41 PM. Reason: Correction

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Hi Lloyd.

As its a fine day in the UK today, I grabbed the side panel I bought from the garage and took it into the sunlight to take a photo of it, as you can see the lacquer is poor but I was amazed by the change in the colour especially from something with poor lacquer.

I have attached the photo from ebay as when I bought it, in poor lighting it looked not far different from that, but in the sun it really shines. At some point I will get this panel colourmatched properly, Im still trying to get my workshop setup but will be getting some proper spraying equipment, which will get me away from the base coat and 2k lacquer aerosols.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


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When I purchased the bike the PO gave the cart he made to do the engine, thanks Ron. Before I got started I decided it was time to give it a redo. I am attaching the before and after pics. All that is left is to get started with the engine rebuild. Lloyd L

A70 cart 1.jpg A70 cart 2.jpg

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Thanks to the link given on the other A70 thread, I have found the image of the UK styles (4 gallon tank) I was referring to


BritBike link


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Gee, Allan. That thread is a blast from the past.
One of the posts on the thread has a link to the Triples Online A70 thread. That TOL thread is a real gold mine.

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Today I removed the engine from the frame and cracked it open. Next I will be cleaning all the parts and checking the threads. I will also be checking all of the critical dimensions.

A70 engine apart.jpg

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I just found that the sludge tube and plug are missing. Does anyone have a spare or know of a source to purchase?


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
I just found that the sludge tube and plug are missing. Does anyone have a spare or know of a source to purchase?
That's a bummer. Those are some of the special unobtainium A70 parts.

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Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
Gee, Allan. That thread is a blast from the past.
One of the posts on the thread has a link to the Triples Online A70 thread. That TOL thread is a real gold mine.

I need to read that. I whip through the attached thread and found the A70 image I referenced earlier (which I was kinda pleased about as I did have it on my phone… but like a lot of images, the phone fairies must not have transferred them to the new one lol)



Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
Originally Posted by bsalloyd
I just found that the sludge tube and plug are missing. Does anyone have a spare or know of a source to purchase?
That's a bummer. Those are some of the special unobtainium A70 parts.


Aren’t they (isn’t it rather) smaller like the A10 plugs on an A70?

Lloyd, would it be possible to share the casting number off the back of the cylinder head (between the splayed ports?) there was two different twin carb heads for oif, different part numbers though I “think” only one is ever refrenced. One of the differences being, 5/16 UNC threads for the outer rocker box studs on one and 5/16 UNF helicoiled bolts (or studs may have been original) on the other, the casting around the pushrod tunnel was different.

On the two I have the port size was slightly bigger on the higher numbered one (30mm if I remember rightly) and 29mm on the other (with the UNC threads)


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Allan, The casting number is 71-2202 There are no helicoils in the rocker bolt holes.


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Another question, what is the thread size for the sludge trap plug?


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
Another question, what is the thread size for the sludge trap plug?
5/8" UNF (19 tipi)

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Would you check again, 5/8 UNF is 18 tpi. Thanks Lloyd L


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
Would you check again, 5/8 UNF is 18 tpi. Thanks Lloyd L
The 19 must have been a typo. It's definitely UNF. Grab a bolt next time you're at the hardware store to check.

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Are you sure about that? I thought it was 5/8 20 UNS

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I am positive, the designation UNS stands for Unified National Special, which is rarely used.


Buying a bolt tomorrow!

Last edited by bsalloyd; 05/18/23 1:21 am. Reason: Add info

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Beezer used some strange threads over the years.

Unified special (or unified constant) was one of them.

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BSA did use quite a few 20 tpi threads, but I think they were 20 tpi Cycle.

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Morgo has a good range of hex socket crankshaft plugs Morgo Plugs
It could well be a BSF thread as BSA?Triumph were smoking some weird stuff back then, from memory the new for 73 disc fork legs were tapped 3/8 BSF and fitted with a stud with 3/8" UNF on the opposite end for calliper locknut.

Morgo's HB11 looks like a possibility, might be worth asking them what one fits an A70?


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These look identical to the ones SRM are selling and use the same ID numbers on the plugs... I think if they didn't taper the plug at each end they wouldn't sit so deep in the crank web.

The HB11 is much shorter than the ones they list for the A10/A65 cranks (6.5mm compared to 11.5mm).


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Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
BSA did use quite a few 20 tpi threads, but I think they were 20 tpi Cycle.

When they dropped the cycle thread they had a habit on the 20 TPI Cycle to replace them with a UN special where the thread is UN thread angle etc using 20 TPI. They do not interchange well.

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Interestingly though, BSC thread has a 60-degree thread angle the same as UN threads, and NOT a 55-degree thread as people wrongly assume it to have the same thread angle as BSW & BSF.


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Lloyd - I have a badly mangled sludge trap plug. It's not use that I think you want to use, but it will be a good pattern for making a correct one.
Also I have a sludge trap tube, I think. It's mangled too: someone didn't know that the bolt needed to be removed.But it's repairable.

I'll look for a spare thrust washer too. Not sure about that.

I'm out of town through Monday. I'll try to drop these off with Sam mid next week.


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Okay moving on, the winner is 5/8”- 18 tpi UNF.

Next question, I am having the con rods checked for ovality. What is the correct size for the big end eye diameter complete with tolerance.

Answer: 1.770" , no tolerance yet.

Last edited by bsalloyd; 05/24/23 11:30 pm. Reason: Add information

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Ray thanks for checking for these parts. I found the thrust washer and sludge trap tube NOS. All I need is the plug to use as a pattern. Lloyd L


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I am attaching the BSA correction bulletin for those who want to know the correct colors for the 1972 models

Correction Bulletin2.jpg

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Originally Posted by Allan G
Not here is an A70 picture somewhere (and it appears on a video) from 72 with a 4 gallon tank of which I think I recall is like the picture above but chrome as the main section and red for the stripe.

I’ll try and find it later.

Here is a link to the video Allan mentioned, as we've been discussing it in the Office today. If you watch from about 10m 40 you'll see a few bikes that were filmed around October 1971. The first A65 (we think) had the brick red 4 gallon tank with white stripe and a little later there's what looks to be an A65 (maybe?) with Dove Grey frame and the Red and Chromed tank at about 10m 46. Our speculation is that a BSA worker bought this tank and fitted it to his earlier bike perhaps?



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I am not sure of the colors available in the UK. This bulletin is put out by BSA in Maryland specific for the US market.


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I have managed to find some unobtainium items. NOS sludge trap and thrust washer. I will be making some drawings and posting for others that might be in the same situation. Lloyd L

sludge trap and thrust washer.jpg

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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
I have managed to find some unobtainium items. NOS sludge trap and thrust washer. I will be making some drawings and posting for others that might be in the same situation. Lloyd L
Don't bother buying any lottery tickets. You've already used your quota of good luck.

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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
I have managed to find some unobtainium items. NOS sludge trap and thrust washer. I will be making some drawings and posting for others that might be in the same situation. Lloyd L


Detailed drawings will be greatly appreciated. 😊


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I have attached the drawing for the A70 thrust washer and sludge trap. Sorry for the quality of the drawing. I had to take a photo of it to be able to attach it to the post. Lloyd L

The sludge trap was made from 1/2" steel tubing with 0.035" wall with end large end swedged to size.

A70 Thrust washer and sludge trap2.jpg
Last edited by bsalloyd; 05/21/23 2:55 pm. Reason: Add information

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Thank you for posting the sludge trap dimension. I have an a70 engine that was run in a trackmaster frame (have the frame too). I will be rebuilding it once I finish my Gold Star project.


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Happy to help another vintage bike person.

Now, for the next question. What is the balance factor that I should use for general riding. This bike will never see a race track. Also, what is the best way to reduce the compression without having new pistons. The reason for the compression reduction is that these engine seem to like very high octane fuel. I will be fueling up at the local gas stations in the area, ie 94 octane.


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
Now, for the next question. What is the balance factor that I should use for general riding.
There is a really nice discussion on balance factors here, with some technical detail from some of the gurus.
The Triumph T140 uses essentially the same frame with a similar bore and stroke, and apparently has a balance factor of 74% A65s seem happy with around 70%, give or take a bit, but that might be for the dry frame.

Originally Posted by bsalloyd
This bike will never see a race track. Also, what is the best way to reduce the compression without having new pistons. The reason for the compression reduction is that these engine seem to like very high octane fuel. I will be fueling up at the local gas stations in the area, ie 94 octane.
The ideal way is probably a compression plate under the cylinder, but a thicker head gasket would also work. There's a bloke in the western US who does copper gaskets in various thicknesses. Copper Gaskets Unlimited in Phoenix?
Ed V does A70 work as well, so should be able to help.

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If your only backing off the compression to reduce pinging, I would instead go round with a needle file in all the piston corners on the crown, then either polish off with some wet and dry, wire wool or a metal polishing wheel (on the finishing mop)

My A65 is pretty high compression and doesn’t pink even with ordinary fuel, yet the unfinished low compression pistons it had in before it would pink even under light throttle.

Or you can turn the crown off a little in a lathe if you need it lower. A70 domes are quite shallow though compared to the A65, so they get most their compression from the long stroke.


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Shane, thanks for the lead on the gaskets. They are closed. I will contact them next week. LloydL


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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
Now, for the next question. What is the balance factor that I should use for general riding. This bike will never see a race track. Also, what is the best way to reduce the compression without having new pistons. The reason for the compression reduction is that these engine seem to like very high octane fuel. I will be fueling up at the local gas stations in the area, ie 94 octane.

Balance factor I am going for is 66%. Solid mount Nortons do well with this balance factor. I personally would not lower the compression on the A70, you have access to 94 octane which is ample. I am limited to 91 Octane and get away with 10:1 on air cooled bikes. If you are concerned about octane take a degree or two out of timing. If you absolutely need to get lower compression get a 0.060" head gasket.


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MR, Thanks for the comments. I will consider all ideas given. Lloyd L


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I should update my statement on balance factor as I only mentioned wet balance. I am chasing 66% wet factor which is closer to 72% dry. Jim schmidt (JS Motorsport) has done a ton of research and spintron testing on solid mount Nortons to come to these numbers. If you are looking for smooth the A70 in theory is a lot smoother due to the raised height of the piston pin. Additionally you may want to look into lightening the piston as much as you feel comfortable doing as that will further help reducing vibration.

I am in the process of sending rod specs into Carillo to get rods made without a small end bushing. I will use a DLC coated pin instead. The weight saving is small, but I am rebuilding an A70 race engine and want to be able to run it up high in the rev range as reliably as I can.


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Here are the latest photos of the bike. It looks a little different than when it arrived. These parts are off the the powder coater while I am getting the engine ready to assemble.

Parts for powdercoating.jpg

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The early frame does not have the re-enforcement of the centre stand tabs so do not use the stand for starting.

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Originally Posted by DMadigan
The early frame does not have the re-enforcement of the centre stand tabs so do not use the stand for starting.

No bsa frame did as standard. I have added supports to my frames which also braces against the centre stand and keeps it more upright than way over centre like most stands. You can then get away with the shorter triumph stand which will make going on and off stand even more a breeze.

The scribed line on the stand is 90° to the frame tube.

Lloyd,
It’ll all look good and like new before too long. Before you get those parts painted, just measure the length of those foot rests, they look like triumph triple ones which were longer, but I’ll double check your original images to confirm.

Again before you paint, a worth while upgrade is to buy the T140 footrests which are a bolt through design (1/2” UNF). Then weld a nut to the frame gusset plate. If ever you need to do anything on the bike that involves taking the primary or timing cover off (or like me you want to make some space to squeeze it and other bikes into a van) then you’ll find the standard way of getting these footrests off is a pain in the backside, even if you cut a slot into the end of the bolt to aid winding it out with a screw driver (it’s an improvement but still a pain).

Apart from the engine capacity (and the above listed mods plus some hidden ones) I made my thunderbolt as close to original as I could, Resto-mod I think is the correct term. Sensible mods without detracting from the original appearance of the bike.

IMG_2956.jpeg IMG_2955.jpeg

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It's worth re-enforcing the large tube welds as well, they always crack.
That is if the bike is ridden hard (which is what it should be, it's an a70 after all.)
Bollox to originality, make the thing a rider.

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This document has suggested repairs. I found this on the Triumph forum some years ago but cannot find it now so this link below will download it. This is not my work & I'm grateful to whomever provided it.
Suggested OIF Reinforcements

Every OIF that I've stripped has had cracks.


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Before painting the main frame do the pressure test shown in the manual.


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Pressure test, hmm, I have not not seen that. Back to the powder coated to retrieve the frame.


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Page D4 of the 71 manual, "Testing for oil leakage", basically plug ll the oil spine holes and pressurise to a few psi, use a hand pump with a tyre valve onto the oil return, fit the sump plate , plug the feed pipe, get to 5 psi and paint soapy water round all the frame / spine welds.


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I have already started getting the pieces to perform the test. Thanks, Lloyd L


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Snag with powder coating, if it needs repair it's a bugger.
I should have brush painted my old crate rather than powder
coating it, just lazy i suppose.

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Originally Posted by bsalloyd
I have already started getting the pieces to perform the test. Thanks, Lloyd L

Some short lengths of tube over two of the fittings with a bolt in the end (crimps around each bit) and a foot pump pushed over one of the other pipes (the return is 5/16 as is the breather tube so will accept the pump, the 3/8 feed won’t). Then pump it up. I pumped mine up higher than what has been suggested and it was fine.


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71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
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68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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I caution against testing with air at higher pressures, theres a good reason why water is normally used for pressure tests, it doesnt expand , a test with air which fails suddenly can be destructively explosive.


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Curious what your big end bearing size and part number is on your A70. On mine I have 67-1430M stamped on the back side of the shells which is a standard A65 bearing. However, I have seen in literature that there are A70 specific bearings listed as 71-2692. My crank is in beautiful condition, which is shocking for a race bike.


1954 - BSA A7 Daytona Replica-ish
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1966 - Triumph T120TT
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Originally Posted by gavin eisler
I caution against testing with air at higher pressures, theres a good reason why water is normally used for pressure tests, it doesnt expand , a test with air which fails suddenly can be destructively explosive.

I think I used between 7-10 psi, certainly no higher. If it’s going to fail at that then it would have failed in use, it’s a welded steel frame at the end of the day and suffers more strains in use I would imagine.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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The bikes from the factory were fitted with lead/tin big end shells, the option was to use
tri-metal for race engines. Same with a65's nothing super special about the a70 big ends.

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