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#903515 02/22/23 4:18 pm
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WIll it do any damage to start your bike if oil has drained from tank into bottom of engine or will it just pump it back into the tank,or is there an easier way to fix it without draining all the oil and re filling it?

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My T160 wet-sumped down from the tank, in doing so it flooded the chaincase and then made its way out of the gear-lever oil seal.

Rather than start it I dropped the sump and drained it.

In a similar vein, my Commando also wet sumped and rather than drain it I started it up and forced oil past the crank oil seal into the belt drove - not a good idea. I quickly drained all the oils out and did a clean up. Commando is slightly different as the chaincase on the T160 shares oil with the motor. I assume the T150 may do as well.

In the absence of clear knowledge I would drain it down to be safe.


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Hi sam, I look in the tank and if there's a 3rd or so of the volume (by eye...) left in there I crank it over. If there's little drag, I start it right up. I've done it this way for years with no issues. Whatever amount that's made it over to the primary takes a good while to flow back, but minutes, not hours.
Flatspot, yes the T150 is the same design.

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i had the pickup tube fall out once, so there was something like 3 cups of oil i n the sump.

this bike has external breathers and they filled with oil while the motor chugged along



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Originally Posted by sam keller
WIll it do any damage to start your bike if oil has drained from tank into bottom of engine or will it just pump it back into the tank


On start-up it can take many seconds for the oil to be scavenged back to the empty oil tank, get to the pump and for the pump to restore oil pressure to the crankshaft so running the engine under such conditions should be avoided whenever possible in my opinion even though the crank is partially submerged in oil, the (centre) mains and big ends don't rely on splash lubrication and there's no sludge trap 'reservoir' of oil in the triple's crankshaft to supply initial lubrication to the big ends as there would be in the Commando crankshaft, for instance.


Originally Posted by sam keller
or is there an easier way to fix it without draining all the oil and re filling it?

It's easier to drain the primary case than the sump (even if a sump plate with a drain bolt has been fitted) as a significant quantity of the 'wet-sumped' oil overflows into the primary case and that oil is more than enough to start the engine with (less 350cc put back in the primary case) when returned to the oil tank.

Another option would be to add a small amount of fresh oil to the empty tank before starting the engine.

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I sometimes find as much as a quart of oil in my sump when I drain it (I have a plug on my sump plate.)
Somehow the triples are not as adversely affected as the twins by starting with a full sump. I never see a bunch of oil coming out the breather into my air filter.
However, I did just buy the Harris anti drain valve for mine.


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Thanks for the reply, I'll take out the spark plugs and kick it over 15 or 20 times to see If I can get anything back in the tank. Anti drain valve sounds like the way to go. Sumping not a problem in riding weather as its ridden at least once a week. Have read elsewhere that the seat for the anti drain valve was questionable from the factory when new.

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Probably read it here or TriplesOnLine. Search my name and anti-drain.
Draining the primary and putting it back in the tank is easiest. Oil from the case will quickly refill the primary. There are sump plates with drain plugs available although on a T160 it would still be difficult to get to without a different exhaust.
"there's no sludge trap 'reservoir' of oil in the triple's crankshaft to supply initial lubrication to the big ends as there would be in the Commando crankshaft" - On an A65 the sludge tube would provide little oil on a dry tank startup since the outlet holes face the centre of the crank. Once rotating the tube has to fill before oil will get the to rods.

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Thanks for the tip, draining the primary will be much easier than removing the sump plate.

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So far, I have been able to drain the sump on my T150V by removing all but the back two nuts, and just loosening them. Tap the front of the plate on the sides to release it and slowly ease off the rear nuts until the oil drains. I store the oil in a covered glass jar until next time to start the engine. Mind, I still haven't ridden it yet (and it may be a long time - even after painting). Suspected right meniscus tear doesn't bode well for kick-starting.


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I don't know why, but I have never found a bunch of oil in my primary when I found too much in the sump of my T150. The primary on my A65 belched oil when It wet sumped (modified to breathe as a Triumph) but my T150 has never done so. Maybe it's cause I never leave my Trident parked on the side stand?


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Thanks for the tip, draining the primary will be much easier than removing the sump plate.

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If you know you are going to be parking up for a while, get one of those cheap hand operated suction / vaccum jobs, and suck out a liter of oil. Then just pour it back in when ready to go


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That sounds like the ticket! Easy and inexspencive. Thanks.


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