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#903177 02/17/23 11:43 pm
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kevin Offline OP
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i have put down deposits on the motel rooms in caribou, at horrifying costs.

two bikes, assuming i can fix the little ninja 250 that my son messed up falling down in the muddy driveway. twice:

you have to slow down in the mud.

i think its more stable if you go faster .

yet you have fallen down twice in the same place applying that philosophy.

(silence)


watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

and other stuff
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kevin #903262 02/19/23 12:01 am
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Were registered too but this year were staying at the track in our new to us RV and bringing our two younger daughters as well (they both are really intrigued with the racing). If everything goes right I will have the 500cc completed and ready to race along side the 750cc. Hotel costs last year were crazy expensive or us too.

You should make your son assist with fixing the Ninja.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
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kevin #903273 02/19/23 1:48 am
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No reservations yet but planning on bringing the 'Turnip Crusher' for yet another attempt. Currently on the way home from RRR in Georgia AHRMA races. For the most part our junk worked pretty good. The Seely/Nourish 750 was awesome until an ignition wire broke. Hope for better luck tomorrow. PRT

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kevin Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Blown Income
You should make your son assist with fixing the Ninja.

yes. got to get the 650 off the lift first. swapping out teh ARD for a Pazon, changing the gearing, maybe wheels if theres time.


watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

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kevin #903380 02/20/23 7:13 pm
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Which setup from Pazon did you go with? Assuming your gearing and wheel change is getting the Katana wheels back in place.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
kevin #903390 02/20/23 10:39 pm
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i have the smartfire dual-plug setup. bought it about five years ago from lynda at MAP. that was when andy was having trouble with the rotors and i dont know which one i have, so it may take some fussing.

im at a crossroads with the gearing. with 21/46 and stock wheels, i have 135.5 mph at 7275, and with with 20/43, i have 138.1.

with the 17-in katana wheels, i can go 21/39 for 135.7, 21/38 for 139.3, and 21/37 for 143.0, all at 7275.

if i can pull it. thats why i was interested in the Q16 oxygenated fuel, which didnt do what i wanted. C12 as just as good for non-drag race purposes.

want to buy some?

i think for july i will keep the 21/46 and see if i can match the 135 i got before my blow up. if it looks good, then ill slip on the katana wheels and go for 139.

ive lost ten pounds. ten more to go.


watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

and other stuff
kevin #903425 02/21/23 12:51 pm
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Hoping the EI works out for ya. I have the Smart Fire on my 750 and had issues with the old style rotor which was like a barrel, the updated version has ears for the pickup. I sent mine to John Healy for review when I was having issues and, if I recall correctly, the taper on the rotor was off so when seated the barrel wobbled causing misfires. Upgrade to the the new style rotor and have no issues at all.

I looked at the Q16 but when I enquired with VP on fuel for both of my bikes, they recommended C45 or CHP. Need to decide as the C45 has a lower octane rating but higher oxygenation than the CHP. The CHP+ may be an option too, maybe I will reach back out to them for a second option. The C16 octane rating I think is a bit too high for my needs.

Ive lost 10lbs too and another 10-15 would be great.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
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kevin #903438 02/21/23 5:12 pm
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they recommended several oxygenated fuels when i spoke to VP, but Q16 was all they had in maine.

the snowmobile people love it. you go way rich on the jetting -- like 150 to 195 cc/min ormaybe even 200 on the 35mm FCRs. somr people said to advance the spark.

as near as i can tell, the boost is bottom and midrange, so for a drag machine it gets you faster sooner. but top end appeared unaffected. certainly my machine coulnt pull a taller gearing


watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

and other stuff
kevin #903508 02/22/23 2:27 pm
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From reading about oxygenated gasoline, I'm a little confused. It's supposed to have oxygen chemically added to the fuel, which supposably allows you to richen up your mixture, i.e. you're adding more fuel to the same amount of air, and should result in more horsepower. However, I cannot find a single article that shows an increase in peak horsepower? The only article I could find in my brief search was a Motortrend magazine article that claimed 7 to 10 hp gain for a "crate" motor, presumably a 350 to 400 hp motor. But only in the lower rpm ranges, so maybe 2-2-1/2% increase but none at the top? Bottom line for me is that trying to find and buy an oxygenated fuel that results in performance gains is going to be like sexing baby chicks - - I don't what I'm doing, so I'll probably get it wrong!

I know Mike Tomany was trying it last year, but I left Loring Saturday evening so I don't know if he ever got any improvements. If anybody could make it work, it would be Mike. So did anybody hear of his final analysis? I don't have any contact info for Mike or I would give him a jingle.

Tom

Last edited by koncretekid; 02/22/23 2:44 pm.

Life's uncertain - go fast now!
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Steve said that. Anything worth doing well is worth teaching to others. I said that.
kevin #903526 02/22/23 5:25 pm
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you definitely go rich. i couldnt find jets richrr than 9 sizes bigger and used drills to get two more before the mixture finally went rich


watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

and other stuff
kevin #903593 02/23/23 12:52 pm
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In theory, it should provide a HP gain as you are increasing the fuel amount to the cylinders like you do with Nitro but on a way lower scale. When I switched from 110 Leaded fuel to U4.4 on my A10,I gained a couple mph. On my 750, I have no data on this as its always ran on U4.4, will have some this season though switching to another fuel type.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
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Originally Posted by Blown Income
In theory, it should provide a HP gain as you are increasing the fuel amount to the cylinders like you do with Nitro but on a way lower scale. When I switched from 110 Leaded fuel to U4.4 on my A10,I gained a couple mph. On my 750, I have no data on this as its always ran on U4.4, will have some this season though switching to another fuel type.

I agree with you that it should increase hp across the rpm range. I have found a good thread on Speed-talk.com (https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29359) that notes that some car engines made as much as 5% more top end hp on dyno pulls but the thread was dated back in 2011. It implies that the best way to determine if a particular fuel will add hp where you need it (top end for us) is to dyno tune before you hit the track. But you, Chris, have seen an increase in mph so that is a good indication that our old not so perfect engines may benefit from oxygenated fuels. Did you happen to switch to the oxygenated fuel (U4.4) in the same event that you ran the 110?

Tom

P.S. I should note that because of drag, an increase in hp of 5%, will normally only result in an increase is speed of the cube root of 1.05 (5%) which is 1.6 %, or about 2 mph at the speeds we are running.

Last edited by koncretekid; 02/23/23 3:15 pm.

Life's uncertain - go fast now!
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Steve said that. Anything worth doing well is worth teaching to others. I said that.
kevin #903619 02/23/23 5:12 pm
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Tom,

Yes, The switch took place at the same event (2013 June ECTA meet if my memory serves correctly) and it took roughly an increase of 8 jets sizes in the AMAL Concentric carbs took get it close but was still on the lean side at the top end. This was eventually dialed in to achieve 118mph on the mile track in street trim (minus the front fender).

I will take the potential 2mph increase any day. Really looking forward to this season and how well upgrades improved performance/ speed or decreases and lessoned learned.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
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kevin #903637 02/23/23 8:06 pm
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I'm going to Colorado the end of March til the end of May, and when I leave, both my bikes (TR25 and 600cc APS-PG BSA) have to be ready to put in the trailer when I get back at the beginning of September for the World of Speed, SCTA meet at Bonneville. The record at SCTA in the APS-PG class is less than 1 mph above my BMST record, and only .018 mph over my best speed at Bonneville. My record in the 250 MPS-PF class (which I ran on gasoline with just a handlebar fairing) is less than 1mph off the 250-MPS-PG record which was a bike with a full fairing, and is better than all of the M, A, APS, gas and fuel, even the blown pushrod 250cc pushrod engined bikes.

2 MPH is huge in these circumstances!

Tom

Last edited by koncretekid; 02/23/23 8:08 pm.

Life's uncertain - go fast now!
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Steve said that. Anything worth doing well is worth teaching to others. I said that.
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