I'm in the process of reducing Anton to component bits. Have the swing arm in hand.
Bike is pretty original and am going the route of attempting to keep it as close as possible. Before I get further into the POR vs sprayer vs powdercoat jungle, I'm wondering if anyone has gone down the rescue existing route? A quick effort with a mid-range rubbing compound brings up a fair nice gloss (left arm untouched):
I've run across Mr. Healy's fave Interlux products for frame bits etc. Comments, fair or foul.
What we've got he'ah... is failure... to communicate.
I did this on my unrestored 1970 TR6R, hand polished all of the frame and bracket bits and the shine is just as good as my restored bikes (minus the paint chips) but it really depends on the whole route you are going. My option, if the fenders and tank is repainted, I would repaint the frame and brackets but if everything is staying "original", I would just polish up as best as possible.
1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger 1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike 1961 BSA C15S 1966 BSA Lightning 1966 BSA Spitfire - Soon to be an A50 Powered LSR Bike 1969 Triumph T100C 1970 Triumph TR6R 1970 Triumph TR6C 1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike 1974 Triumph T150V
I suppose I could buy a pint of Regal Purple from Don and use my air brush to touch up the nicks in my 50 year old lacquer. And, hope that the new paint matches the faded paint on the tank. I did have the pin stripes redone last year. I suppose that a real expert could tell me that the gold is not the correct shade? However, I have another tank. I'll probably just strip the Duplicolor off that, take both tanks to the painter and have him paint the second tank, and the side covers, with modern enamel in Plum Crazy Purple (close enough for rock n roll.) He can use the first tank as a guide for the white accents. I've never painted a frame with the engine out. I've always just sanded and used Rustoleum with a brush for that. I can see where the swing arm would polish up nicely. It's almost always covered with a light coat of oil mist and the nicks aren't too bad.
It is the ago old question that divides collectors and in particular museum curators Refurbish it ot as new appearance using modern products Leave it as is with perhaps a stabilizing over coat to prevent further degregation Redo with original products applied with original equipment
From the time of the Great Depression the finish on motorcycles became progressively rougher And when BSA went from preunit to unit construction along with that was the abandonment of fully baked enamel finishes on anything other than the frames which were dipped then baked Then there was a change over from metal oxide pigments to far less stable dyes
So you have a philosipical dilema that has never been resolved I for one always favour a protective over coat on the original finish Thta is what I liek to see with all of the origianl flaws because that is how they were sold
Original frame finishes seem to often have little or no primer underneath them.
So if the paint doesn’t flake off, it’ll probably bubble off with slight surface corrosion.
The first frame I had done was stove enamelled. It took 2 attempts as the first time they did the power coasters trick and applied too much paint. They redid it and lacquered the finish and it’s been like that since 2007, it’s. A good solid finish and has a zinc primer base.
I’ve since learned of another company (in the uk) called Dimlows, my father had one of his frames done there. The finish was like factory, only with probably a better gloss, ideal if your preserving stamped numbers. I’ll be using them next time.
If your not going to use the bike much then polish it up and leave it be.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
My 1967 A65 was originally stove-enameled, and I could tell that it had been dipped, because the paint was thicker on the bottoms of the rails, and required extra applications of paint remover to remove.
That was a long time ago, before powder coating was an option. One of the advantages of powder coating is that you don't have to remove all the paint. You have to remove the gloss with sandpaper and taper off any sharp edges, but if there are patches of thin paint remaining it's not a problem. This assumes that the powder coater is going to clean the frame of any dirt or grease before coating, as he should.
I had the frame on my A65 bitsa powder coated, and I didn't use any chemical stripper on the frame; I just hand-sanded it. The coating turned out very well. I believe it was done in 2012, and it's still intact. One of the important factors in a durable coating is controlling the hardness, which may be related to the gloss factor. A good durable coating should dent rather than chip when struck.
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa. 2007 Triumph Bonneville Black