Oil leaks were bad - and coming from GoldWings will not be tolerated. So, the top end s coming apart to address them. Already found a mangled dowel in the cylinder/head interface.
Jugs off. Mangled dowel extracted (actually two). One by drilling, the other by tapping and screwing in a bolt and nut with bigger nut under it to jack the dowel out of the head. Didn't work on the one I had to drill. The base stud that was sticking up - turns out it was pulled out from the case, threads completely stripped. Helicoil kit ordered for that. Found that the pistons are .040 over with the #1 very carboned up, #2 pretty clean, and #3 carboned as well as some deposits I can't identify - almost like glue baked on. Really hard to get off. The long end studs had spacers under the nuts and were not screwed all the way into the head. Found their holes packed full of swarf and that they are all four Helicoiled. Cleaned all that up and ran them down all the way.
Copper head gasket must be magic. Flipped the head over to clean and check it out and almost threw up. What, how, why, who? (Photo taken after wet lapping the flange on 400 grit glued to plate glass.) Someone deserves some severe karma from this. And, this was found after installing helicoil in case for stripped base stud and making a mandrel to properly tap in the cylinder-to-head dowels.
Getting ready to put the jugs back on. Decided to use the pull center piston method. While preparing for that, discovered the oil control ring on #1 frozen about 1/2 way around. Carefully removed the piston from the rod and used a small cut-off nail with pliers to push through one of the holes and get it loose. Took all rings off of it and cleaned them and the grooves, then reassembled. #2 came out cleanly and the big end bearing looks great.
Took so long getting this far that I called it a day. Tomorrow is church-related tasks. Maybe Wednesday?
Jugs are on, but not without spending another three hours worrying #3 lower compression ring off. Then cleaning it and all three grooves. Ready to tighten cylinder mounting nuts, align #2 rod with the crank and button it up.
Greased the case under the cylinder base with silicone grease and used very thin layer of Hondabond 4 on the top of the gasket.
Well, it is all back together (at least, as much as I had it before the "leak fix and other joys" period). Of course, the weather picks this week to demonstrate why I refer to this as the "rain forests of East Tennessee".
Tires mounted and wheels back on. Attended the Barber Vintage Festival last weekend and scored a Euro-style handlebar, chain guard (will need some modification), and brake lever with perch that has a hole for mirror mounting all at the Swap Meet. Also enjoyed three days of vintage motorcycle racing.
Little real progress. Acquired handlebars and controls mounted. Chain guard test fit and will require a little massaging to mount. Big thing is that the left side cover that I ordered mid-August finally showed up this week and only required the peg holes increased to 5/16" to fit up. Now, on to finishing body work, priming, and waiting for those golden days when the weather permits painting!
With the leftside cover ready for paint, I turned to the right side (ebay special) cover and discovered all three mounting holes with patches that just popped off with fingernail force. Cleaned all around them in preparation for repair.
Epoxy came in to patch the pulled-through mounting holes on the right side-cover. Ground around and wiped well with acetone, then a layer of epoxy, layer of fiberglass cloth, layer of epoxy, layer of cloth, final layer of epoxy. All bedded in nicely with no air bubbles seen. A bit of progress, at least!
Speedo cable came in, and I fumbled around with it until finding a good route, then zip-tied it in place. Thankful for the many photos of T150s online as this is certainly not something that I could find documented.
Side panels and fenders seem about as ready as I can get them for prime and paint. If the forecast holds true (rare), I should have a couple days next week of painting weather.
And there is the chain guard - someone had added an extension at the back from straight up to below the 3 o'clock position of the sprocket, and the further down ~3/4". It is brazed on, but not fully flowed - just filled at the end. I need to find someone with an oxy-acetylene rig (and the gas) to get this off. It will also need just a bit of pounding as the chain just hits it near the front.
Where, pray tell, did you route it? Mines off and needs to get back on. Obviously along the swingarm but then, in front of the oil filter or did you crossover? I have the tach cable going left of downtube then back up and right Thinking the speedo might go opposite.. Might depend on the exhaust also mine a has some pretty low m bars
Dave 65 TR6R 68A65T 69 B44VS. 74 T150V 65 A65 D L/R 19 Chieftain
I started from the speedo, fed between fork tubes but above the bottom yoke, then down the right front of the front frame stem, in front of then under the timing cover (a tight fit for the nut between the front of the engine case and the frame wye, but it rattled through), under right side of the transmission and over the oil pipe retaining strap. To the outside (right) of the oil pipes but still above the bottom frame cross-casting, then up along the right swing arm to the speedo drive.
Mind, this is a late '72 T150V with drum (conical) brakes.
All hyped up to prime and paint the tins, sprained my back Friday night and right knee Saturday morning. Back is improving but knee swelling up. Wife is taking me to the doctor tomorrow. There goes hope for using this period of good weather!.
Got a little bit more primer on yesterday. Weather turned bad again today. At least the body is back to about 95% function with controllable pain levels.
Minimal progress. All of tbe priming is completed, but no good painting weather in sight. Knee is pretty notchy and will probably go to doctor tomorrow for an injection.
Well, doctor did a steroid injection in the knee. Seems to be improving, but he thinks I have a torn meniscus, so it may not get back to "right" for a while if ever. May have to learn to live with it. Meanwhile, weather just isn't cooperating for painting yet. The only task left that I can think of is finishing the chain guard, which really needs to have the extra piece removed (it is brazed on). Will have to find a welder for that, I think that we pass one on the way to church, so will check with them when I go by.
Our church was down to about 24 average due to circumstances beyond our control (but fully in Gods plan!) Turns out another congregation with like doctrine really needed facilities for worship, so we merged. Last two Sundays, we averaged 135!
In motorcycle related news, - I painted today! Initially hoped to just get color on the tunnel and bottom of the tank, but it was going so well that all of the color is on with two good coats. Everything in the garage (with doors open) right now to cure for handling, and tomorrow the parts will go upstairs to my den for a couple weeks full cure (Duplicolor lacquer). Then I'll take them back to the shed for a couple coats of 2k clear. Color is looking spot-on to my wishes. The only boo-boo that I can detect is on the tank, where I let it touch my shirt while carrying it back to the garage. Very mild, and some of it seems to be self-healing. I would consider a bit of wet sanding it, but - it's right where the badge goes, so shouldn't be visible!
Frenders and side covers are in my den on the second story of our house to keep them warm and the lacquer curing. The tank had a small place that I was not pleased with, so it was wet sanded and yesterday after church (and a very enjoyable lunch with our minister) it received a good coat of lacquer in that area. It will move up from the garage to the den tomorrow. I have located the tank badges and bolts and checked for fit. Need to pick up 10-32 SS flatheads for the badges, but they should be in stock at our local Ace hardware.