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DAMadd Offline OP
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The 74 I'm recommissioning has a Mikuni kit from MAP cycle, the center cable seems like it's going to be straight under the frame tube, which isn't a problem with the stock gantry setup. Any thoughts?
Left?
Right?
Hard bend?
For stock users: it's a 1 into 3 cable similar to the some triple choke cables but also like the Bonneville setups but with (obviously) 3 cables

Any thoughts appreciated

Last edited by DAMadd; 01/31/23 1:40 pm.

Dave
65 TR6R 68A65T 69 B44VS. 74 T150V 65 A65 D L/R
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Flanders and probably others sell 90 degree steel tube ferrules for cables. That would make a smooth transition that plugs into the top of the carb but the casing would have to be shortened by the length of the ferrule.

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The cables were the main reason I opted to spend more on the Premiers when I replaced the carbs on my '72. Of course, I ended up with three choke cables instead.
I put the choke lever on the bars, so the cables come in from the front with the junction under the tank. My center cable goes just a bit to the right of the main frame spar before entering the top of the carb.


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Originally Posted by DAMadd
The 74 I'm recommissioning has a Mikuni kit from MAP cycle, the center cable seems like it's going to be straight under the frame tube, which isn't a problem with the stock gantry setup. Any thoughts?


I have the triple cable-operated Mikuni kit on my T160 (below) and although the cylinders are inclined forward the carbs are probably a similar distance from the frame and I don't find the central cable to be a problem so I doubt it would be on a T150 and if there had been then MAP would surely have done something to remedy the situation by now.
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DAMadd Offline OP
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The T150 has the head steadies also kind of in the way.

once I got the cables in it kind of sorted itself there's only a few ways it can go and the clearance wasn't the issue it looked at first.

Thanks for the replies.


Dave
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Easiest solution to the problem I found, was to have the centre cable made an inch shorter. It then cleared to centre tube perfectly.

Trouble I had was getting the mikunis to run good throughout the rev range. I gave up eventually and went back to Amals.


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DAMadd Offline OP
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Well in my case they came with the bike ( sitting on the back of the motor in a tangle of cables, hoses, and spark plug wires)

This was to be a recommission of someone's half done recommission. The budget won't survive a set of new premieres + gantry, intake and correct cabling. So I'm rolling with it.

Unless..........I ride it and develop feelings. It was supposed to be whipped into shape to pay for my b44 project, It's already jumped that for bench time and I kinda like the old lump.

Any throttle stop advice?
I know on amals guys use a certain size drill bit set the lower gap (I set the WOT synchronization as per instructions kindly emailed by MAP cycle) they just say set the lowers equal using the throttle stop

Last edited by DAMadd; 02/02/23 6:43 pm.

Dave
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I balanced the Mikunis on my RD400c by sticking a flashlight in the outlet and adjusting the throttle stop until I JUST saw a hint of light peeping through on each. They were very repeatably matched when I adjusted the idle by turning equal amounts on each.


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Too many variables to give one number. To get a consistent idle all the slides have to sit on the stops. With the throttle closed and the idle stops backed off, find the smallest drill bit that fits under all the highest slide, bring the stop up until it just touches, then adjust the other two to the same. Run the motor and check the speed. If too high you have to back off the cable stops equally and then the idle stops equally. If too low, raise the idle stops equally then adjust the cable stops.You want a little slack between throttle on the stops and cables pulling up.

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DAMadd Offline OP
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Thanks for the input. I will do that in preparation, but haven't run it yet.
I have not changed the stops from what the PO had set, they look relatively even, but I'll check it with the drill method..
Very close.
Carb fiddling and exhaust tomorrow.


Dave
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