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WD 40 was originally developed by NASA as a rust inhibitor ... i do not ( like D Madigan and Gavin Ester ) believe it would be much use on motorcycle chains other than for cleaning , just too light D Madigan is a very accomplished engineer going by some of his work he has posted pics of ... I would listen to that guy
. I use that Tallow based spray which is carried by solvent and kind of bubbles its way in EXCELLENT stuff IMO ... the poor mans version is plain old sticky chain bar oil for chain saws applied with a brush
Myself . im just an IGNORAMUS that doesn't know much about motorcycles BUT i do know a lot about engineering ( I was a production man) I wouldn't have the patience to produce one off or small run stuff like some ... but lets face it all motorbikes are is a whole lot of metal components bolted together
"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
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WD 40 was originally developed by NASA as a rust inhibitor ... i do not ( like D Madigan and Gavin Ester ) believe it would be much use on motorcycle chains other than for cleaning , just too light D Madigan is a very accomplished engineer going by some of his work he has posted pics of ... I would listen to that guy
. I use that Tallow based spray which is carried by solvent and kind of bubbles its way in EXCELLENT stuff IMO ... the poor mans version is plain old sticky chain bar oil for chain saws applied with a brush
Myself . im just an IGNORAMUS that doesn't know much about motorcycles BUT i do know a lot about engineering ( I was a production man) I wouldn't have the patience to produce one off or small run stuff like some ... but lets face it all motorbikes are is a whole lot of metal components bolted together I think you will find it was developed by the US Navy WD40 = Water Dispersant No 40
Bike Beesa
Trevor
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WD40 is a good rust remover, but lousy as a protectant or inhibitor. It also works the trick on frozen car door gaskets (I just discovered this a couple of weeks ago when my car doors were frozen shut after a rain storm and subsequent extreme temperature drop).
I've tried all the chain lubes, PJ1, Silkoline, etc., and I've had the best results with Chainwax (brand name) - I guess this is what Ig referred to as "tallow based"; it smells like wax crayons. I've heard that baking the chain in grease is the ultimate, but I'm too lazy to do that.
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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[quote=Ignoramus]WD 40 was originally developed by NASA as a rust inhibitor ... i do not ( like D Madigan and Gavin Ester ) believe it would be much use on motorcycle chains other than for cleaning , just too light D Madigan is a very accomplished engineer going by some of his work he has posted pics of ... I would listen to that guy
. I use that Tallow based spray which is carried by solvent and kind of bubbles its way in EXCELLENT stuff IMO ... the poor mans version is plain old sticky chain bar oil for chain saws applied with a brush
Myself . im just an IGNORAMUS that doesn't know much about motorcycles BUT i do know a lot about engineering ( I was a production man) I wouldn't have the patience to produce one off or small run stuff like some ... but lets face it all motorbikes are is a whole lot of metal components bolted together Wm20 said: "I think you will find it was developed by the US Navy WD40 = Water Dispersant No 40" Mr Google said: WD-40 was originally used by NASA to prevent rust and corrosion on spacecraft that launched the first satellites into orbit. It was invented by Georgia Tech engineering graduate Reginald Fleet and a team of scientists, and today only a handful of people still know the exact formula.
"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
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Before I get complaints about allowing threads to go off topic. It’s worth remembering that the original reference to WD40 was to their brand of chain lubricant and not using conventional WD40 as chain lube.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Some of us are old enough to remember that it was originally called "Rocket WD 40"!
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Before I get complaints about allowing threads to go off topic. It’s worth remembering that the original reference to WD40 was to their brand of chain lubricant and not using conventional WD40 as chain lube. i didnt know WD40 made an actual chain lube ...never seen it here... there are lots of thing we dont get here . too small market i guess .
"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
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gavin eisler |
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I never realized that WD40 have expanded their range and you can now get a variety of maintenance sprays including specialist chain cleaner, specialist chain lubricant and specialist chain wax. see pic below and the link to all WD40 products is Here. I've been using a tub link life of graphite grease boiled on the stove with the chain previously cleaned in petrol/paraffin, this method seems to work well but I might try and use the WD40 sprays.
1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
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The large thrust washer behind the chainwheel, is it the copper side facing the gearbox? That's how it was when I removed it.
a
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There are supposed to be two "dogs" at the edge of the thrust washer, 180 degrees apart, that fit into holes in the clutch center. If your thrust washer doesn't have those, they may have worn or broken off.
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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Some replacement thrusts don't have those dogs or tabs. His may not.
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It's a plain washer, the clutch centre is a later type that must have been replaced (engine is a '68) as it has the 3 bolts instead of 6 screws.
a
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The large thrust washer behind the chainwheel, is it the copper side facing the gearbox? That's how it was when I removed it. Normally, the thrust washer's copper side faces the basket. At least for the 'proper' washers with the tangs hooked in the hub that cannot spin freely. If the washer has no tangs I'd say it does not matter as it will spin anyhow. Cheers! Phil
Best regards
Phil
Celle/Germany
'62 A 65 Star (disassembled)
'69 A 65 Lightning
'71 A 65 Firebird
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ok thanks, you know how it is when presented with these things on assembly, there was no info online as far as I could find and I wouldn't trust previous owner!
a
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The large thrust washer behind the chainwheel, is it the copper side facing the gearbox? That's how it was when I removed it. Normally, the thrust washer's copper side faces the basket. At least for the 'proper' washers with the tangs hooked in the hub that cannot spin freely. If the washer has no tangs I'd say it does not matter as it will spin anyhow. Cheers! Phil correct regarding "At least for the 'proper' washers with the tangs hooked in the hub that cannot spin freely". however i must question "If the washer has no tangs I'd say it does not matter as it will spin anyhow." it is a thrust washer and as such it provides a bearing face . it is intended to absorb "occasional" loading (where things move about due to design clearance etc ) thus i contend that the copper face must face the bit that floats ie the basket
"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
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It's a plain washer, the clutch centre is a later type that must have been replaced (engine is a '68) as it has the 3 bolts instead of 6 screws. Just to clear up a bit of terminology confusion, I've noticed that in Triumph talk, the cush drive is referred to as the clutch center, and the thingy that anchors the chainwheel the clutch hub, whereas in BSA talk, it's just the opposite; the cush drive is the clutch hub, and what I like to call the clutch arbor is the clutch center. Anyway, in my reply when I mentioned holes in the clutch center, I was referring to the arbor, the piece that supports the chainwheel. But if your thrust washer has no tangs (a better term) then the point is moot. My recollection is that the copper (brass?) side is toward the chainwheel.
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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a
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on some stupid government form ages ago I had to say if I spoke any other ( than English) languages.
Naturally not wanting to be obtuse I said American English. The drone behind the desk entered it onto the computer without even blinking . DANG
"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
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Ah, clutch SLEEVE! And cush drive = clutch centre. I agree, the factory Spares book should be the standard.
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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it is a thrust washer and as such it provides a bearing face . it is intended to absorb "occasional" loading (where things move about due to design clearance etc )
thus i contend that the copper face must face the bit that floats ie the basket Understood, just for the sake of thinking less, I do mount any thrust washer at the particular spot copper side towards the basket. On the other hand, I had asked myself when entering my previous posting whether this is really necessary. The tang-less washer will spin anyhow, so I was was not sure if it mattered. Thanks for sorting me out on that matter and sorry for any confusion created. Cheers! Phil
Best regards
Phil
Celle/Germany
'62 A 65 Star (disassembled)
'69 A 65 Lightning
'71 A 65 Firebird
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Copper side to the chainwheel/basket is normal. More or less a spacer between the hub and chainwheel that floats but they do wear out from slipping the clutch. When the clutch is fully engaged it is clamped in place by the clutch springs. It limits how much the chainwheel wobbles about when the clutch is lifted.
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later-larger inside-diameter Thrust-washers have a bevel on one-side of larger-interior hole . ( chamfer is always on the steel side ) ( whats this for ?) The later and earlier hubs are interchangeable , but washers for each type at not ( not meant to be interchangeable anyway ) the later washer should hit snugly enough at the center , that if put on upside down , the washer won't fully seat because the hubs interior shoulder isn't square cut at the bottom . ( its harder to machine a square shoulder and its would be weaker ) ![[Linked Image from feked.com]](https://www.feked.com/images/detailed/162/fkclutch268uk_c.jpg) with the bi-metal copper-Steel washer ... the chamfer on the steel side is supposed to mate with the chamfer machined on the clutch Hub . ... making the copper side face outward .
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