Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board A65 Clutch Center removal

I'm at the stage where I've got the proper center-removal tool installed, however it's not budged so far and I'm reluctant to tighten the bolt any more. I've given the head several sharp raps with a copper hammer.

The 3 screws on the clutch plate (if it needs to come off) have deformed heads so it looks as though I'll have to carefully drill them off.

(I think there are other threads on this but can't seem to locate them via the search box)

Heat

Yes, was thinking that, must remove the cover first to remove the rubbers?

Shouldn’t have to do that……..unless you really turn up the heat.

The 3 spring hub units are often not worth trying to repair, infact about half the parts alone cost more than a new hub.

Tighten the larger part of the extractor up as much as you can without stripping the threads, then tighten the centre bolt so that it is showing it should come off - even though it isnt. then give it a solid - positive whack with a 2lb hammer. it should fall straight off. should only need 1 whack... you could try heat as well, spray some WD40 around the area etc. but the whack method if done properly has never let me down.... Just dont miss!

No success so far, and I've hit it with a lump hammer! I'll continue tomorrow, I have a good heat gun so I can heat up the center.

im confused. I fail to see how the center (hub) with the rubbers in it for a cush drive could be a problem to remove as a unit. Are we talking about the same thing here? If you are talking about the spigot that keys onto the main shaft that's a different matter

how about a pic of the offending part so we all get on the same page

seems to be advice given with 2 distinct offending parts

please clarify what part you are talking about with pics

Pull the clutch inner off of the hub first, you can do that by using a piece of steel
with 2 holes in it jacking 2 of the adjuster screws against the mainshaft.
Once the clutch centre is off you can heat the hub up and have another go with
the centre tool. I got fed up with those tools and made a special one years ago
that clamped onto the ridge/space in the hub splines, this was done as those tools
kept stripping the threads and as it was normally done at race tracks to repair
gearboxes, i didn;t have heat etc available.
Once the centre is pulled off the hub, you can use a home made puller or just
a sykes type with a few mods.

Links to previous threads.
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=8085

https://britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/441336/a65-clutch-basket-removal

https://www.google.com/search?q=Britbike+forum+a65+clutch+centre&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=AJOqlzWc5h5x6Cmz_sBzkyGlzl_aHfjZaA%3A1675422174712&ei=3uncY7uYK4vrgQbokqWgCQ&ved=0ahUKEwi7_8n8mfn8AhWLdcAKHWhJCZQQ4dUDCA4&uact=5&oq=Britbike+forum+a65+clutch+centre&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABOggIABCiBBCwAzoKCAAQHhCiBBCwAzoHCCMQsAIQJzoICCEQoAEQwwQ6CgghEKABEMMEEAo6BAgjECc6BwghEKABEApKBAhBGAFKBAhGGABQmhBY7z5ggk1oAXAAeACAAZgCiAGHDpIBBjEuMTEuMZgBAKABAcgBBMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

I would have liked to remove the cover plate and rubbers so I can get some heat where I want it, but the previous owner appears to have used some kind of cheese-head type (heads stood proud of the cover), the slots so deformed I drilled off the heads. It's still difficult to obtain any purchase on the cover, perhaps a bit more careful drilling is required, unless I can remove the unit with the cover still on.
I'll resume the attempt with some heat this afternoon (UK time)

EDIT- some confusion over these screws, pics I've seen have been both cheese head and CSK.

https://i.imgur.com/MJ8rfFl.jpeg

The centre drum with the rubbers in it should just pull off the splines, it may be snug but not excessively tight. The puller is required to remove the hub from it's taper

Ah! I used my 2-legged puller and the drum came off the splines, so I can now apply heat if required.

My intention was to examine the gearbox sprocket, check the rubbers, the rotor and replace the shaft oil seal whilst it's down. Also noticed that the distance piece on the tensioner pivot is missing, I can make one of those.

they say a pic is worth 1000 words ... I simply couldn't see why there was a problem Andy . Unless the splines are totally deformed ( buggered)

semprini

ok just be carefull with how much heat you use ... dont heat it so much u will burn the oil seal on the mainshaft where it comes out of the box... u can replace them in situ but its a pig

tighten the puller as hard as u dare , apply heat EVENLY and try a sudden shock load to the bolt head ( in the axis of the shaft) and it should let go ... my guess is someone plastered the taper with hyper strength Loctite or similar ,,, good luck

if u have a slide hammer that would be ideal ... grab under the bolt head of the puller and give it a cosh . but chances are if u have it under tension it will pop when u start heating.

ok, it's a job for the morning (UK time). I did get the hub (after the drum was removed) hottish using a heat gun, but it didn't budge. I've got a butane torch so I'll try that, with some wetted rag tucked behingd the back. The rotor and engine sprocket came off easily.

It finally yielded to the butane flame and a very big whack with the club hammer!

Is the gearbox sprocket worth changing, I only do a very small mileage during the summer season.

The oil seal behind the clutch is split on the edges, it appears to be 1 3/8" diam, and the shaft size is around 0.910".

Also, would it be worth changing the crank seal while it's down?

https://i.imgur.com/YBK4qoJ.jpeg

My take on all that is to replace all the seals, including the one behind the gearbox sprocket. Since you have already found one seriously failed seal, it's reasonable to think the one farther in is worn out too.

You can also get a better look at the gearbox sprocket and decide if it needs replacing, with either the same tooth count or different, depending on the type of riding you do.

that sprocket has 1000s of miles left in it ... its actually pretty good ( by our standards) . Definitely change the seals if u can get at them while its down

There should be a flat spot at the end of each tooth on the gearbox sprocket. If the teeth are sharpened to a point, or if they are "scooped", then the sprocket should be replaced. (Same goes for the wheel sprocket BTW.)

Next job is to change the drive-side seals.

Where is the chain oiler, Should it be visible inside the primary case at the right?

The chain dribbler is on the rear chain side of the primary case. The 1/4" screw that is in line with the swingarm bolt has a small hole to it from inside the chain case. A banjo piece sits on the rear chain side and dribbles oil on to the rear chain and all over everything else.
If you want to lube the rear chain, clean and fill the small hole with sealer and remove the banjo dribbler. Soak the chain down with WD-40 and wipe off the dirt then spray a wax type lube (Chainwax) on the chain, let dry and wipe off excess. The tacky types just collect dirt.

Ah yes, I sees it now, crafty! I will seal it, perhaps it's already blocked as I've not really noticed oil on the chain.

I have got both WD chain lube and the wax, so I'll wash off the sticky lube as suggested and revert to just the wax. In theory though, injecting the lube (via the straw) just between the side plates into the inner bushes seems a good idea?

You can see the WD lube residue on my sprocket photo above.

WD 40 is a very poor lubricant, not at all suited to chain lubrication, cleaning yes, long term lube, no.

The WD40 brand name also makes a chain lube, I doubt the true meaning (or formulation data) of "WD40" has anything to do with it.

I did not say WD-40 was a chain lube. It works very well for cleaning the chain and will remove oil and grease as well as the dirt.
The chain wax only does any good if it gets between the rollers and pins. Spraying it on the side plates or surface of the rollers is just wasting it.

Just to clarify what I meant;

WD-40 Chain Lube is the tacky black stuff which I'm phasing out. It dispenses as a thin liquid which can penetrate into the inner bush if it is injected accurately into the small gap, then transforms itself into a thick grease which does seems to be ideal for lubing the bush.

WD-40 maintainance spray of course is the general light lube/penetrating spray, I use similar products which are usually much cheaper.

Not sure whether the wax version penetrates into the bushes and rollers but I'll see, although each link needs to be done individually.

There was a product on the market years ago called Linklyfe which was a type of graphited grease, you placed the coiled chain in a tin of the product and cooked it on the stove, much to the annoyance of wife!