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Jul 10th, 2022
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OP
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The clutch on my A65 slips some when it’s cold and after a few minutes it is fine. I’ll try a few adjustments first.
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Joined: Feb 2019
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Yes, do the adjustments first. A too tight clutch push rod can cause that problem.
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1 member likes this:
Allan G |
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Joined: Aug 2001
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The clutch discs swell with heat, especially the cork ones, so they will provide more clearance when cold and less when hot. I adjust mine so that I can back off the handlebar adjuster to start & ride a mile or so, and then bring it back up as it warms up. Adjust at the pressure plate when the engine is warm and the handlebar adjuster is backed off. Back the screw off from seated just a hair, maybe 1/4 turn, then bring the handlebar adjuster up to about 1/4" cable free play. Adjusting this way, I find that, when the bike is cold, there is NO cable free play at the clutch lever, so I back it off to get that 1/4" free play. As the engine warms, the slack increases, so then I bring it back up to 1/4".
If this sounds weird, I'll mention that the original BSA clutch discs did not swell like this. Also, I've only had limited experience with Surflex discs, but I believe they don't swell as much as the cork ones either.
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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Joined: Aug 2001
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1/4 turn will work fine, but as the clutch wears this clearance closes fast , better to go with at least a half turn, the factory manual asks for one whole turn. This is set cold. It could be a few things, oil type, general wear and tear, bad cable, if the adjustment doesnt work.
71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
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Joined: May 2013
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When you set up the clutch adjustment at the pressure plate. Do it with either the cable having loads of slack or disconnected at one end. If there is any chance that cable is removing any free cable inner before you start then your already potentially on a loosing battle.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Joined: Feb 2019
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When you set up the clutch adjustment at the pressure plate. Do it with either the cable having loads of slack or disconnected at one end........ Cable loose but just enough adjustment so you can squeeze the lever and put some pressure on the clutch push rod when the lock nut is tightened up. This helps keep the adjuster pin from turning on you and screwing up your adjustment.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,112 Likes: 150
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,112 Likes: 150 |
When you set up the clutch adjustment at the pressure plate. Do it with either the cable having loads of slack or disconnected at one end........ Cable loose but just enough adjustment so you can squeeze the lever and put some pressure on the clutch push rod when the lock nut is tightened up. This helps keep the adjuster pin from turning on you and screwing up your adjustment. Another way to do that is to have a socket with a hex fitting on the back end, run a screwdriver through the socket to hold the adjuster screw in place, and turn the socket with an open end or ring spanner. (You can also turn an ordinary socket with vise-grips, but that mars the socket.)
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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1 member likes this:
Allan G |
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Joined: Feb 2019
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.......Another way to do that is to have a socket with a hex fitting on the back end, run a screwdriver through the socket to hold the adjuster screw in place, ...... Yep, that works too. The OP is going to be a clutch adjusting maestro by the time he's done.
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