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Hello folks - I purchased a Bob Newby clutch kit from a reputable vendor for my 1967 A65L. After reviewing the instructions about a dozen times, I think I can get it to fit with the supplied hardware. However - the one thing I can't figure out is the stator installation. I can get the stator to clear the pulley as suggested by the instructions (washer shims) but the stator has to go on with its output facing towards me - if I install the stator with the output facing backwards to the pulley, it will definitively rub - unless I shim the stator so far out it's no longer in line with the rotor. Is this acceptable? Is there something I'm missing?

I've attached a photo of the clutch installed - should the belt be that far off center? I've tightened both the engine and clutch pulleys to seat on their respective shafts, so that shouldn't be a problem.

If it makes a difference, I have a wassell aftermarket stator and rotor - they work fantastic, and I'm not sure where I put the original stator and rotor, so I'd like to keep that.

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I can’t offer you any advice on the stator…. as for the belt, personally I think it is better if the belt is centred (as close as possible) to the roller bearing in the drum. Keep in mind that the rollers will benefit from some maintenance in the future. Your belt location looks fine to me.

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Output wire towards you will work fine.
Regards.


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The belt will find it's own position the clutch. As long as it doesn't run off the edge of the clutch all will be perfect


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One more question - do you install any spacers on the crankshaft end or the clutch side?? The instructions that I have from Frank Diehl say to put a spacer on before the rotor - but I don't have a spacer. There was a spacer between the old crankshaft sprocket and the crankcase, but it didn't say whether to install that or not.

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Originally Posted by jakejoseph
One more question - do you install any spacers on the crankshaft end or the clutch side?? The instructions that I have from Frank Diehl say to put a spacer on before the rotor - but I don't have a spacer. There was a spacer between the old crankshaft sprocket and the crankcase, but it didn't say whether to install that or not.


On mine I have the thick washer which the oil seal runs on, then the crank pulley, then the provided spacer then the rotor and the nut.

The stator should fit happily either way around, even the wassel/Lucas ones. The originals had the wire aiming outwards but fit what ever suits best and won’t allow the belt to rub on the wires.

The kit would have come with some studs, but in all fairness this is better suited to the 68 and later with the cast in stator mount. Your stator mount would have tapered studs I think. That might need thinking about and something bespoke making. I made some bespoke long nuts for my 71, my 68 has an outrigger so it’s very different again.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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I think I've got it - The kit came with new studs, with two nuts - a thick one and a thin one. I installed the new studs and the extra nuts on the studs, and then installed the stator and rotor. The spacing seemed good on the stator - it had plenty of clearance. I tightened it down, and only got about 3/4 engagement on the exposed threads for the nuts that hold the stator in place - but they were definitely engaged. I then measured the gap, and got a nice even 7 thousandths between the stator and the rotor regardless of the crank position.

The rotor sits a little shy, and the instructions called for a spacer behind the rotor what was not included in the kit, so I will probably have to get a little spacer there, but it seems like everything is going to work.

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the newby belt is off center because bob makes different width crank rotors for the different width belts, but only one clutch rotor to hold the plates. i have a T120 with a 40mm belt (no alternator) and the belt is centered on the clutch rotor.

the belt is inbound by the flanges on the crankshaft rotor, so its position is fixed.

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The Newby Belt drive is a great piece of kit, however there are a few points to look at and check before completed.

The cable from the stator, I normally cut the outer edge of the insulation and gently pull the cable so it has a nice turn to align with the tube, then
fill the gap with epoxy resin for a good support.

The front top outer edge of the stator insulation has been known to foul the inside of the primary cover this would cause the stator to miss align, I have in the passed had to file a large radius on the front outer edge of the insulation in order to prevent this.
The top stator securing bolt is very close to the belt and can foul on deceleration as the belt tries to ride up the pulley, this became apparent after a few thousand miles.

The rotor can run a couple of mm proud of the stator without any lost power. Would like to see a nice size flat washer on the securing nut ,

Going now to the clutch assembly.........I normally would shorten the gearbox mainshaft by 4/5 mm as a matter of course in order to provide extra clearance for the pressure plate adjustment to accommodate future wear.

These methods are tried and tested regards Ken

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Originally Posted by Ken Rowark
Going now to the clutch assembly.........I normally would shorten the gearbox mainshaft by 4/5 mm as a matter of course in order to provide extra clearance for the pressure plate adjustment to accommodate future wear.

These methods are tried and tested regards Ken

I've fitted several of these belt kits, the oldest being 10 years now. I have never needed to shorten the main shaft and find wear is very minimal, even with abuse.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Allan ,Bob has stopped supplying the extra steel plate, and now run the fiction plate directly on to the pressure plate so as a result the pressure plate is quite close to the main shaft, Bob did suggest this to me in conversation,
Regards Ken

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Success! Thanks for the suggestions Ken, I checked the clearance of the stator against the case, seemed fine and the clearance of the rotor was fine after installing the case. The mainshaft length seemed good, there was about 3/8 clearance there and the clutch seated fine.

I'll check on the belt condition after a couple of rides to check the belt clearances.

Clutch is smooth. It grabbed the first time it was let out, but after that it was great.

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Jake,pleased that all has gone well for you, you will not regret fitting this,it is really a shame to fit the primary cover and hide such a nice piece of kit.
Good luck and enjoy regards Ken Rowark

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Thanks! It really is a beautiful piece of machining.

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I recently fitted one and agree with Ken. Not a lot of clearance to the end of the shaft . The red friction plate runs directly on the pressure plate . It works for me but the adjuster is screwed almost all the way out.

Has anyone experience with need for lubrication of the bearings in the basket?

Cheers
Ray


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The clutch basket has about 110 4 mm crowded steel balls,when I say crowded there is no cage holding these in the track the only way to assemble the unit is to fill the track with grease in order to hold the balls in place.

In time(about one seasons riding) the grease becomes hard and creates resistance between the two components and will give the impression that the clutch is dragging and in some cases difficulty in selecting neutral and a clatter on engaging first gear from standing.

I have these BNR clutches on various classics Matchless G12, Triumph Pre unit T120, and an A65 Cubman, and fitted many more. I now wash out the grease on the basket with WD40 and blow out the grease with air, this has worked for me many years now without issue
Regards Ken

Last edited by Ken Rowark; 01/17/23 1:46 pm.
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ken, what gtease do you use on the newby basketz when you reinstall them?

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Been using some red Lucas grease for mine.
Kind of tore my newby up at Daytona last year, had Bob send me some replacement parts including a set of ball bearings. He sent a little tub of red grease for them.

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Mike this is the grease that Bob uses on assembly for race bikes, I have found that in time It goes hard and causes the clutch to drag, I have washed this out in order to prevent this, the other option is to regular strip down completely clean and re pack with new but there is still the dragging effect.
Regards Ken

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Agreed, it tends to get stiff. Maybe next service I'll look for something else to use.

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mike, what happened to your newby at the races? mine has been trouble-free, but i dont put near as many miles on mine, i think

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Originally Posted by kevin
mike, what happened to your newby at the races? mine has been trouble-free, but i dont put near as many miles on mine, i think

From the issues noted, had I not already fitted 3 of them I wouldn't buy one. I have never seen any of the issues noted above - I must just be lucky, I ususally fit the 5 plate setup but as 4 of the plates are thinner, it makes up for the difference in thickness...

It would be interesting to know if you have the Aluminium or the Delrin backing plate? I found my Delrin one warped, the originals (or at least those from before 2012 were aluminium and I think the new one I fitted to my OIF is aluminium too, but the delrin one I had warped and it created some clutch wobble when the clutch was released, Bob replaced it for an Aluminium one for me. The delrin one did last about 8 years, and I only noticied the wobble when I went to change the gearbox.

I haven't had to re-grease mine before or since though, apart from when I changed the backing plate, I cleaned and regreased the ball bearings then with the grease Bob supplied.

I normally used Morris Lubricants range of greases, for bearings I used this

Morris Lubricants K2EP


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Operator error. I had gotten a bearing that fit both the trap door and the snout on the high gear in an attempt to get a bit more support for the mainshaft. The bearing was not up to the job though and self destructed in a spectacular way, spreading mayhem through the clutch. I was lucky the carnage wasn't worse.

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Originally Posted by Mike Baker
Operator error. I had gotten a bearing that fit both the trap door and the snout on the high gear in an attempt to get a bit more support for the mainshaft. The bearing was not up to the job though and self destructed in a spectacular way, spreading mayhem through the clutch. I was lucky the carnage wasn't worse.

I have had a similar thing happen with an outrigger plate, though the bearing didn't fail, the plate had worked its way loose. They does a lot of damage those little screws, in the end i put back 3 of them, but put stover locknuts behind the screws, it never budged again, but i meant I couldn't use anything bigger than a 19t front sprocket (overal ratio is increased by the equivalent of 1 tooth anyway with the BNR), this was was remedied and it never did that again, I did switch back to the standard setup and it hasn't failed with that either.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)


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