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I think he means the other end, visible via the oil filler plug near the kickstart.


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Hi, I was referring to the kick start nut on right end of main shaft.

Very common for this nut to come loose. The locking tab washer usury keeps nut from backing off, but vibration or something wears through tab & nut actually backs off.
This allows main shaft to move left leaving play in rod. Owner adjusts rod. Nut backs off more, things go bad fast from this point.

As was suggested Loctite is good plan on this nut. Even if lock tabs keep nut from unscrewing, when it comes loose the sleeve under kicker ratchet gear, starts spinning & wears end of sleeve & washer next to bearing.

Pretty much every trans I’ve seen the nut is finger tight or looser. If not for lock tab I expect most nuts would just unscrew.
Don


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Hillbilly's comment made me laugh!

'preciate all the comments and facts and figures. There is no discernible wear on the rod ends or the rod itself. I've put a torch through the bore on the mainshaft, nothing there, so.....

back in it goes. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Cheers,

Steve

p.s. Blue loctite on the mainshaft nut on the gearbox side is a "must have" on the OIF bikes.


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In the past I used thread locker on that nut then along the years I needed to dismantle stuff and I did not put again.
I did not have any loose on that nut in a pre unit and in later T140 with the lock washer.
Do not know how do you guys have trouble with that one; the clutch nut is more problematic, I think. I used thread locker there but not in the last rebuilds.
After 13000km in a year and a half before the crank had the fissure, nothing loose. All at road speeds of 115-130km/h for 2-3 hours so may be I had luck with that gbox nut or may be my conservative way to use the clutch or that 95% of the riding and commuting is on the road/freeway (not too much pulling of the clutch) not into a city could be the reasons
Even the cranks nut could be more problematic.

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if youre at a stop the clutch pushrod does not rotate relative to the pressure plate

but i have tried to pull in the clutch after a dyno run rather than let the dyno motor the engine, and i welded both ends of the pushrod to their contacts

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Many of the Hondas that I've seen apart had the ball - sometimes one on each end of the rod. The Japanese are not ones to add unnecessary parts.


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Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi David, Easy to remove screw & pull rod with skinny magnet & measure.

But we’re talking a lot of threads here….

The tip of your screw isn’t broken off is it?

What pressure plate are you using? Triumph steel or alloy?

Exactly what plates are you using?

Don
The screw was new as of a few years ago, adjustment was the same when new.
The pressure plate is alloy made by AlloyTec. No special bearing in the center.
The steel plates are just the flattest ones I could find out of my collection. I used the old trick of rubbing them on the concrete floor.
The plates are the good ones sold by The Bonneville shop, don't know who makes them but similar to the ones sold by MAP.

I never measured the push rod. But when I bought the bike PO had the clutch springs WAY too tight.


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Hi DavidP, I'm not familiar with Alloy-Tech plate. Curious as to how it measures on outside diameter. Also the height of outside of plate when sitting on flat surface. Is it taller than the steel plate?

I can make hardened screw if you really need one. I would need to know the exact overall length you'd need. I'm guessing from eBay photos thread is normal 3/8-24?

All the new rods I've seen are the 650 length as listed in shop manual. The 750 manual listed same length as 650, but factory apparently shortened them clandestinely.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
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