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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,601 Likes: 223
Britbike forum member
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OP
Britbike forum member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,601 Likes: 223 |
Came across an oil fill pump for A/C systems, thought it would be applicable to filling the oil filter cavity after changing the filter. ![[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52488695519_11aaa774ec_z.jpg) The Schrader valve is 8mm, larger than a tyre size. I made a new filter cap that incorporates it. The quick disconnect is a dry break and opens the valve when fitted to the cap. A screw and seal washer in the open end will keep dirt out and an added back-up seal to the Schrader valve. The pump is 30cc so it will take more than one pump to completely fill the cavity but this is far cheaper than making my own.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349 |
I guess that filling the new filter with oil before shoving it in place is not enough? I guess that's not quite as messy.
"Gosh, it's not a 1/4 20, must be metric."
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim" 72 T150V "Wotan"
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,336 Likes: 626
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,336 Likes: 626 |
I usually soak the filter then lean the bike over as far as I can supported by the bench etc, insert the filter element and then top up with as much oil as possible before putting on the oil filter cap. daves syringe sounds like a time and back saver to me!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,490 Likes: 54
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,490 Likes: 54 |
I leave it overnight and let wet sumping do its thing!!!!
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2 members like this:
pidjones, Hugh Jörgen |
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 895 Likes: 12
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 895 Likes: 12 |
I leave it overnight and let wet sumping do its thing!!!! HaHa , exactly what I thought!!!
3D TV: A format that lost a format war without even having an opponent. Bikes: '69 T120 on average (1967 rolling frame and 1971 Bonnie engine) + '56 1/2 T110 on average (58 rolling frame - with 55 iron head engine) + 74 T150 Home model.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349 |
I leave it overnight and let wet sumping do its thing!!!! Makes sense, as it's always dark by the time I finish an oil change.
"Gosh, it's not a 1/4 20, must be metric."
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim" 72 T150V "Wotan"
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,601 Likes: 223
Britbike forum member
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OP
Britbike forum member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,601 Likes: 223 |
What you seem to be saying is I am wasting my time making parts for triples. Probably true, time to change tacks.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,336 Likes: 626
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,336 Likes: 626 |
Not true, Dave. What these guys are saying is how they have to improvise to get the job done while not having the tool you propose. If the tool were available then some would buy it and use it to make the job speedier and more satisfying to do. However we all have to deal with the saying common to dealers who concentrate on Brit bikes. "What is the cheapest thing on a Brit bike?" Answer: The owner.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349 |
"What is the cheapest thing on a Brit bike?" Answer: The owner. I resemble that remark. But, I will continue to use two bolts, gradually tightened, to remove the crank sprocket, and I will continue to whack the end of the bolt to remove the AAU cam instead of spending good money on factory tools which I don't need. I'll also continue to soak the new filter in oil and use a plastic syringe to pump oil into the cavity, then kick the engine through several times with the plugs out. The parts on these bikes are expensive enough without wasting money on tools I don't need. But, I will travel 150 miles each way to take my cylinders to a shop which has, and understands how to use, a proper torque plate for boring my cylinders.
"Gosh, it's not a 1/4 20, must be metric."
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim" 72 T150V "Wotan"
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,490 Likes: 54
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,490 Likes: 54 |
Yeah, sorry DM, I wasn't trying to denigrate what you make or supply and the time and value you put in to do this. You actually come up with some excellent modifications My actual comment was more a sad reality of how poorly our motors hold their oil in the tank. Another idiosyncrasy...one of many that modern motorcycle owners would never understand, but we joke about and wear like a rite of passage. And just to be clear, I bought the lower oil tube bracket that clamps to the inlet and return tubes behind the oil pump area. I also have your very good carbie fuel feed manifold. These I personally found value in buying. I probably should have a thermostat as well, and maybe one day will do so.
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1 member likes this:
pidjones |
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,138 Likes: 349 |
My actual comment was more a sad reality of how poorly our motors hold their oil in the tank. Another idiosyncrasy...one of many that modern motorcycle owners would never understand, but we joke about and wear like a rite of passage. . Yeah, I went through years of pre-internet ownership without ever hearing the term wet sumping. The engine didn't smoke on starting, so I was happy in my ignorance. I also never filled the filter cavity when I changed the oil. The pressure light went out when started and I never thought twice about it.
"Gosh, it's not a 1/4 20, must be metric."
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim" 72 T150V "Wotan"
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1 member likes this:
pidjones |
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