My 72 Tiger grinds going into 1st gear when it is cold though it's somewhat better once it's warmed up . I lowered the idle to 1000 - 1100 rpm and it helped a bit . I then thought i would adjust the push rod to 1/2 turn back in lieu of 1 full turn to see if that would help, so i removed the cable from the lever but as i " unscrew the hexagonal lock nut " I find the adjusting screw in the center turns with it and i feel and hear a drag the like plates are turning . The original workshop manual that came with the bike says " Unscrew the hexagonal lock nut and screw in the slotted adjuster screw ..... " . Obviously that is not working . Can i assume the fault lies with the pressure plate and or the springs? Thanks!
It is not unusual for Triumphs to crunch into first gear when cold. Accept it as normal but try and reduce it.
There is a sequence to observe when adjusting clutches. You need to slacken the cable first so there is no load on the pushrod. Then undo the locknut in the primary. It is normal for the push rod adjusting screw to turn with the locknut.
I’d remove both, clean the threads between lock nut and adjuster screw and refit. I aim for 3/4 turn off the point where the pressure begins. Each bike is different.
You need a system where you can hold the adjuster screw in place with a screwdriver, while locking the lock nut. I have an offset ring spanner but have also used a tube socket with a hex end and a screwdriver down the centre.
Once you have a setting at the primary end, go back to the cable adjusters and allow a slack cable at rest with a decent lift when the lever is pulled.
'51 C11 in a '54 C10L frame. Back on the road... '70 Triumph Trophy 500. Next on the bench for a refresh! '72 Triumph Tiger 650. Back on the road...
The usual recommendation is 1/2 turn back out, after the adjuster pin has made contact with the pushrod. If you can feel precisely when the pin makes contact, only a fraction of a turn back out will do. When the engine warms up the clearance becomes greater, so as long as there is any clearance, it will be fine, and the lesser the clearance when cold, the more clutch pressure plate lift you'll get.
If anything other than a blank space is visible here, something's wrong.
One thing to remember, as the plates wear the pressure plate moves toward the pushrod. If you set the clearance really close you will have to adjust the screw more often.
I sometimes can't feel when the pin makes contact with the rod. I often remove the cover on the other side to feel when the arm starts moving. It's still a matter of finding something to tighten the lock nut while you hold the pin in place. I usually end up using a socket held with vicegrips with a screwdriver inserted through the hole in the socket. Back off the screw a bit and tighten the lock nut. Free the clutch before starting and no crunch.
Hi DavidP, Holding the socket with vice grips is good idea & works good. I used vice grips or even just regular pliers for years to snug nut while counter holding screw. Then I'd verfiy/final tighten with socket. At that point any turning of screw with nut was negligible.
Facom tools makes a 9/16 angled hollow end wrench which is perfect for our use. I've never seen them sold anywhere but on line. Seems sellers are currently out of stock??
I always pull the primary cover to adjust the clutch. I don't like working on things I can't see. It gives you a chance to check all the other stuff inside and clean out the goo. I use a dial indicator to check for the first lift of the pressure plate.
1968 T120R 1972 T120RV Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.
