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I am still having difficulty with my choke cables. The single cable just pulled through the 3 into 1 connector. The connector and cables are new. I have ordered a new connector and the long cable just to have the handlebar mounting option available. The carbs are mounted on the bike and I can pull the choke up smoothly and easily by hand, by pulling on the short cable.

What should these cables and connector be lubed with?

I have been attempting to get the chokes operating with the cables installed in a manner that allows the carb assembly, choke cables included, to be removed and installed as a single unit. This is possible right?

I have new AMAL Premiers.

I have read references to the adjuster being under the seat. My adjuster seems to naturally be between the air filter and the frame. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you.

Last edited by Woodsie; 09/08/20 4:42 pm.
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I never much liked the idea of routing the cable under the seat, but it can be done with the correct holder for the junction mounted to the oil tank mount. I got a shorter single cable and routed mine from the handlebar lever with the junction under the tank and individual cables coming from the front.
I assume that your choke lever is mounted to the gantry?
Either way one must disconnect the cable at the lever to remove the carbs.


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Woodsie Offline OP
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Thanks DavidP. Mine is mounted to the gantry/carb. I like the sound of your setup. It's easy enough to disconnect the cable from the lever, it is the keeping of the 3 cables under the frame tube that I'm having a problem with. I don't think there is an easy way to disconnect the cables from the 3 into 1 connector. I also like the idea of 3 different cable lengths offered up in TOL, I don't think I will be going that route though. Thanks

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I think you are right about disconnecting the 3 to 1 junction. You may be able get it apart with the chokes in the carbs, but good luck getting it back together that way. So all the cables really need to come off and go on the bike with the carbs as an assembly. I looked at mounting the lever on the bars and decided it would be too difficult to remove the carbs. And I seem to have to remove them far too often. I decided that the tank would have to come off and of course cut any cable ties used. It also looked to me that it would be best to route the right cable to the right and the other 2 to the left of the top tube. But this would lock the carbs to the frame until the choke cables were removed from the carbs. So I went back to the gantry mounted lever. I suspect this is why the factory went to mounting it there. I think only 1969 bikes had the bar mounted lever. And there really is not enough room for all those cables no matter where you try to put them.

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Woodsie Offline OP
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Thanks Dick. Thanks for the input. I had the same thoughts. I will persevere with routeing the 3 cables under the frame tube.

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Originally Posted by Woodsie
I also like the idea of 3 different cable lengths offered up in TOL, I don't think I will be going that route though. Thanks
I recently bought a complete set of cables for a '69 R3 just to get the short cables. The single cable is way long for handlebar lever and routing under the seat. In any case, the three short cables are of different lengths.
BTW: I think one reason they went from mounting the lever at the bars was the change to the switch gear and levers in '71. The old choke lever mounted to the old style clutch lever mount. My setup uses a clamp-on choke lever.


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I'm going to investigate the 3 different length short cables. Thanks guys.

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Woodsie---- the original 68/69 Tridents had a handlebar mounted choke lever with a single long cable connecting to the 3 into 1 junction box with three cables then connecting to the three carbs.
The three cables were of different lengths.
The three cables are:
Short-- 60-2062
Medium -- 60-2061
Long-- 60-2060
The long cable from junction box to handlebar lever is 60-1968.

Later models had the choke lever mounted to the carbs.
In this case all three cables going from the carbs to the junction box were all the same---60-2061 (3 off) ---being the same as the old style medium length cable.
The cable from the junction box to the choke lever is 60-3566.
HTH

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I gave up on my PWK carb conversion and am trying to reinstall the stock AMAL setup on my 1975 T160. Can someone provide a description or better yet a photo or drawing of how I should route the choke cables? Since the lever is beside the Left carb it seems strange that the three shorter cables are all the same length. Given the length of the single cable plus the three, seems much more cable than needed, also the cable from the centre carb is exactly below the main frame tube so whether it goes L or R it will be at a sharp angle. The factory shop manual just shows the carbs and choke cables floating in the air, does not show the frame. Much appreciated.

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The original layout is somewhat counter intuitive.
The three cables from the carbs are supposed to go backwards from the carbs to under the seat
They then go into the 3 into 1 which is in a special clamp mounted on the oil tank mount bolt.
The single cable to the lever then loops around under the seat and goes to the lever mounted on the carb.
I have choke levers mounted on the carbs and on the bars on different triples.
I find it a difficult balance to strike in terms of the friction adjustment on the lever.
It is easy to get the right balance on a twin but with three choke springs on a triple you either have the lever friction screw too tight in which case you need the strength of an ape to adjust it or it is too loose in which case the chokes come on as you are riding along.
I have tried cutting off a couple of turns of the choke springs on one bike and that seems to make getting the right balance a bit easier.
Some people do not fit the chokes at all but I find that if the carburation is correct then you need tickling and chokes to start the bike and then chokes for a couple of miles until the engine starts to warm up.
Just my two cents worth of course.

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MAP cycle has the cables. They use them in place of the throttle gantry on their Mikuni conversion, but I'd imagine their very close to the handlebar mounted setup. I had to track one down for the Mikuni setup on the t150 I'm working on, but realized the setup looks identical to the choke on the early bikes


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Originally Posted by DAMadd
MAP cycle has the cables. They use them in place of the throttle gantry on their mikuni conversion, but I'd imagine their very close to the handlebar mounted setup. I had to track one down for the mikuni setup on the t150 I'm working on, but realized the setup looks identical to the choke on the early bikes
That was one big reason why I opted to pay more for a set of Premiers, I really didn't like having three throttle cables and I always liked the gantry setup on the triples with only one throttle screw.
I put my choke lever on the bars. I have the bracket to mount it to the carb. I even made a bracket for the cable junction under the seat. But there's precious little space under the seat for the cable, and I find it easier to manipulate the lever at the bars.
I bought a cable set for a Rocket 3, the three cables are different lengths.
FWIW: My first Trident had no chokes. To start it I just tickled and turned up the idle bolt about half a turn, turning it back once the engine warmed.


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I like the gantry in theory it's a mechanical advantage over pulling 3 carbs. But the bike already had the mikunis. Untill it runs I definitely cannot invest in 3 premiers. But the main cable was shot and I tracked it down to MAP and it does look exactly like the early chokes I've seen ( on show bikes, not from experience)


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Get rid of the choke cables and plug the the hole with that little hex bolt that is redally available.

Last edited by PFribley; 10/02/22 3:14 am.
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If the bike has Mikunis why are we talking about choke cables? Unless someone has converted those to cable operation Mikunis use levers to open the enrichment jets


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OP has Concentrics, my Mikuni comments were only with the intent that the cables for the MAP cycle Mikuni setup are just like the choke cables on some years of Concentric. I apologize for confusing the issue.🤔


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I cannot find any clamp on or near my oil tank that the 3-into-1 choke junction box is supposed to be attached to. Can anyone please provide the part # and a photo? (also a zoom out photo showing the stock under-the-seat routing?) Much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Randy M
I cannot find any clamp on or near my oil tank that the 3-into-1 choke junction box is supposed to be attached to. Can anyone please provide the part # and a photo?

http://classicbike.biz/Triumph/Parts/Trident/1975T160PartsManual.pdf
Page 68, Item 33 (above the oil tank).

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I am trying to restore my T160 back to the stock choke setup. Have all the parts except the junction box clamp. (Thanks L.A.B., I see from parts book it is # 83-1549). I think it is missing either because the mechanic tossed it during the PWK conversion or because the single cable from lever (attached to the L carb) to junction box is only 12” long (casing length, not nipple to nipple). So when I route it up and under the seat it ends up over the middle of the battery pointing at 45 degrees to where the clamp should be, and it won’t reach the clamp by some inches. In order to enter the junction box from behind for a smooth pull it would need to have another 20” or so to loop around 135 degrees. So maybe when I had the bike years ago the junction box was floating around the L or middle of the battery sort of like the drawing in the shop manual. I don’t like that because the L carb cable is too long and in the way and has to make a sharp bend while R cable may be too short, tending to pull the choke up, and the middle cable is right under where the tank bolts to the frame . The early T50 setup with 3 carb cable lengths would make more sense here.
So I am thinking of:
a) replacing the short cable from the lever with the longer early T150 one 60-1968 that went to handlebar to make it loop around 135 degrees under the seat with minimal sharp turns, allowing use of the junction box clamp or let the junction box float over the battery, so that cables would enter and leave the junction box in a straight line OR,
(b) forget the clamp and keep the 12” cable and leave the junction box to float but replace the L carb cable with the shorter T150 one 60-2062, maybe ditto for the centre carb cable. But this still might have cables entering/leaving the junction box at an angle.
Which of these two do you guys suggest?
(Third option is to mount the lever on the handlebar using the 60-1968 but I am trying to make it look stock for 1975 even if there are unseen mods.)

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Originally Posted by Randy M
I am trying to restore my T160 back to the stock choke setup. Have all the parts except the junction box clamp. (Thanks L.A.B., I see from parts book it is # 83-1549). I think it is missing either because the mechanic tossed it during the PWK conversion or because the single cable from lever (attached to the L carb) to junction box is only 12” long (casing length, not nipple to nipple).

Looking at various under-seat pictures of T160s it's possible that clamp wasn't used on the T160 so the cables could just have run behind the airbox as the drawing in the Owners manual would seem to suggest.
My T160 has Mikunis with individual choke levers so it doesn't have the choke cables or bracket.

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"To start it I just tickled and turned up the idle bolt about half a turn, turning it back once the engine warmed." - If you had an ignition with temperature input it would automatically advance the ignition for a fast cold idle.
Otherwise with an idle stabilizer it would vary the idle timing to keep the RPM constant.

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I use a gum leaf under the throttle stop.....gum leaves are everywhere in Oz. Once warm or ready to ride I remove it and throw it away.

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Originally Posted by DMadigan
"To start it I just tickled and turned up the idle bolt about half a turn, turning it back once the engine warmed." - If you had an ignition with temperature input it would automatically advance the ignition for a fast cold idle.
Otherwise with an idle stabilizer it would vary the idle timing to keep the RPM constant.
And if I could adapt BMW K75 injection to my T150 all this would happen. Unfortunately the Lucas Rita ignition did not include temperature sensors, nor does my Trispark.
Please tell us once you have designed such a system.


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British Cycle Supply in Nova Scotia has the junction box clamp in stock, so it must have been used on at least some T160's.

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Originally Posted by Randy M
British Cycle Supply in Nova Scotia has the junction box clamp in stock, so it must have been used on at least some T160's.

Possibly not, because the 83-1549 junction box clamp was used on T150s so it could be the T150 part that wasn't removed from the T160 parts book.

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