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Hello all
I've made progress getting my bike back to life. I'm at the point where I'm going through all the electrics, making sure there's no shorts or bad connections, and so on. I've realized that even though my rear brake switch works but I don't know how it's actuated. It's bolted to the left rear seat stay above the brake rod but the switch plunger is not hooked up to anything. I can turn on the brake light by pulling out the plunger but I'm not sure how it hooks up to the brake actuation. It seems like it's pointed in the wrong direction to be actuated by the brake rod or lever. And I don't know how it's attached. The replacement parts catalog doesn't seem to show that part?

Thanks - Jim


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I picked up a universal switch from CBS a bit ago... I believe I actually mounted it to the swingarm, and the spring on the end of the plunger to the brake actuating rod on my '67 Enduro. As the rod moves forward, it pulls the spring and plunger to activate the brake light if that makes sense. The attachment points may be different than on your later bike though.

Clay

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OK, thanks Clay. I'm wondering if my switch is even mounted in the right place. The wire loom looks like it's supposed to be there but the switch is just clamped to the frame tube, looking pretty much like an afterthought. This is how it looks:
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


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on later 44's , 68 onwards , the brake switch is actuated off of the small brake lever 90° arm .
( with an adjustable bolt and stop nut )
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]
not the greatest shot that you can see the wiring going to the switch , below the rod .
[Linked Image from 1.bp.blogspot.com]
[Linked Image from lh3.googleusercontent.com]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by quinten; 08/30/22 5:25 am.
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My 67 B44R and C25 both have that same set up as the 68. 1966 had the last of the “pull” type. (I think)

You do need to pay attention to how it’s all adjusted. Use the correct stop for the brake lever…..not the foot peg. It’s a normally open switch that is closed when the brake is applied. You don’t want too much pressure on the switch….or you’ll break it at the mounting points.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/30/22 2:15 pm.

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Thanks quinten and Gordon

Yes, I can see where the original bracket and stop were mounted - they're missing now. The brake lever stop is there, just not the stop for the brake light switch plunger. So, a handful of parts or jury rig...


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Got another question on the 3 position headlight switch. Mine is shot - is there a better quality replacement, preferably on that is waterproof?


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Jim…..it’s technically not a stop for the switch it’s the actuator? You stop the pedal movement with the bolt inline with the stop. Then adjust the one at the switch to activate the switch when the pedal is depressed.

These kinda things are fairly cheap….and I’d suggest just getting new from Peter Quick ( BSA Unit Singles). He’ll have the switch too. ( I always get an extra)

I have/use at least two of the “new” Lucas headlight switches and haven’t had a problem with either one……and I’ve been known to ride in the rain. smile Peter probably has those too.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/30/22 4:09 pm.

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Gordon - thanks for the recommendations. Yes, I said that there were two stops, technically the one for the brake light plunger is not a stop. I know that it should not bottom the switch, that would be bad!

So the new Lucas switch is the one from Australia? I think the one on Peter Quick's site is the Taiwanese Emgo?


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I’m not 100% sure where the switches I got were made. They were the new Lucas but it’s been so long now I don’t remember if they came in red or green boxes. I also don’t know if it makes a difference? Last Lucas bits I got ( last couple of weeks) came in red boxes. Bonneville Shop

You are correct though……looks like Peter only has the Emgo product at this time.
I always try him first but if he doesn’t carry what I need I move on to another site sponsor. I’ve had REALLY good service from all of them.


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Originally Posted by Jim Harris
Got another question on the 3 position headlight switch. Mine is shot .....
How shot is it? I have seen many of those switches revived by shooting LPS1 into the innards, hitting it with a few shots of compressed air to splatter the LPS1 around inside the switch and cycling is a few times and checking with an ohm meter. Sometimes a repetition or two is necessary but it's almost like magic! It continually surprises me. It also might work with WD40 so that's worth a try too but I've used LPS1 for this (and other electrical issues) since the 70's. It's a bit expensive but worth it.

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Stuart, I had tried the contact cleaner before. It brought back the dimmer switch but not the light switch. I 'd definitely prefer to reuse as much original as I can! The switch does have a kind of crunchy action that makes me think there's more bad going on inside.
I'm using an ohmmeter on every circuit to chase out any bad connections before I put any real power to it. But I will say this, the horn is LOUD.


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Originally Posted by Jim Harris
...... I had tried the contact cleaner before. It brought back the dimmer switch but not the light switch............
Did you use LPS1? It's not a contact cleaner, it's a thin lubricant that dries dust free ie it doesn't attract dust. Obviously, some switches may be too far gone for this technique but I always try it first before trying to source a replacement. I've had some really hopeless acting switches come back to life and continue to work reliably..

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OK, I'll give it a try.


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