Britbike forum

Classic British SparesKlempf British PartsBaxter CycleBritBike Sponsor SteadfastCyclesThe Bonneville ShopLowbrow CustomsGirling Classic MotorcycleLucas Classic MotorcycleHepolite PistonsIndustrial tec supply

Upgrade Your membership! Premium Membership Gold Membership Vendor Membership

New Sponsor post
2023 Classic Triumph Motorcycle Calendars
by C.B.S - 09/22/22 5:28 pm
New FAQ post
Member Spotlight
Tridentman
Tridentman
New Jersey USA
Posts: 6,135
Joined: February 2008
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Top Posters(30 Days)
kevin 115
DavidP 60
Top Likes Received (30 Days)
kevin 30
reverb 29
Newest Members
Pacho, Abtinnmant150, Fritzer_108, Ratty, paul cheswick
12,261 Registered Users
Who's Online Now
11 members (trevinoz, chaterlea25, koan58, BikeVice, sbk99, Steve Erickson, mr.moto, Magnetoman, charlie akey, htown70, Xavier Devars), 10 guests, and 22 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums35
Topics76,325
Posts777,860
Members12,261
Most Online204
Jul 10th, 2022
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Hi everyone
I’m new to the world of BSA. Long story short about a decade ago my friend’s neighbor gave him a 1970 BSA Victor special with 3k miles on it that had been sitting since 1979. He said it didn’t run and needed clutch work. My friend and I being about 14 at the time tried our best to get it running but hell we were 14 and got a bit of progress done before my friend lost interest so we stopped working on it. For the past ten years I kept trying to buy it from him. Finally he gave in. So now this 1970 441 is all mine.

First thing I did was take the motor out of the frame since it had been sitting with no oil and no spark plug in it despite it spinning freely I figured I should pull it apart and check everything out. The cylinder looks amazing and can still see the cross hatching very minor scuff marks that I can’t feel with a finger nail. Piston looks pretty good too.

The clutch was missing a ball bearing for the pushrod so I assume that was the previous owners clutch trouble. Despite the bike had 3k miles someone had messed with it a bit. The shift lever was brazed to the shift shaft and pretty much every nut I’ve come across has been partially rounded from what I assume is someone using standard wrenches on them (some of which was probably 14 year old me haha)

Anyway I bought the book the Rupert ratio and I’m reading it cover to cover but I have a few questions not really covered in the book/ a bit specific to my bike.

1. Is it worth converting to electronic ignition? And if I do should I get the electrix CDI 12V conversion. Or go with the Boyer unit? Anyone have any opinions on either? I think the CDI would be the way to go I’m no BSA expert.

2. Should I bore the cylinder anyway? The scuff marks aren’t bad on the cylinder and I can’t feel them but I can’t find a standard piston, and my piston isn’t great it’s not bad but it’s scuffed snd I’d prefer not to use it. Seems like a .010 over piston is easy enough to find. I don’t mind paying for a bore but I’d be curious what you lot would do.

3. I need to repair the shift shaft for the shift lever the threads are ridiculously stripped and brazed over. I found a repair shaft but it seems I need a lathe to cut the old shaft off perfectly and bore a 1/2 in hole into the shifter and then braze the new shaft in. Is that something better left to the professionals or is it fairly easy to do. I’m an aircraft mechanic by trade and I’ve tinkered with cars and bikes my whole life but I’ve never used a metal lathe but I could get access to one I think it would be easy enough to do but I’d hate to mess it up and struggle to find a new one.

Anyway I’m glad to join you all with my New to me BSA Id like to hear any advice or options you all have since well I’m 24 no one my age even knows what a BSA is so I figured I better seek out the guidance of you lot.
Thanks
-George.

1 member likes this: Gordon Gray
BSA on eBay
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 127
Britbike forum member
Online Content
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 127
Well hey! A hearty welcome to you, nice to see a person interested in Victors without grey hair (though you might end up with it after messing with a BSA for a while).

You'll need to weigh the consensus of opinions on your questions, as there are no certain answers. Here are my questionable opinions;

1- I would do the conversion to EI (though I won't offer an opinion on which). For me, the reducing of the possibility/probability of kickback was a convincer.
2- Couldn't answer without actually seeing the piston, but standard size pistons do come up on ebay occasionally. And cheap, because nobody replaces pistons without an overbore. If it was an easy deal...?
3- If the engine was in situ, I might suggest a cobble-fix with a pin, but as you already have it out and are tearing it down, I'd probably replace the entire shaft. PIA.

If you're not aware of it, BSAunitsingles.com is a very good resource for parts and info.

2 members like this: Gtv6george, Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 238
Likes: 18
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 238
Likes: 18
don't bore it yet. maybe run a dingle ball hone, clean everything and go with it. I wouldn't even replace the rings.

buy an NOS shift shaft and lever. at least the shaft

I've installed the Boyer is half a dozen old Brit bikes & like them. I could start my B44 and B50s wearing house slippers.

40+ years A&P, AI, pilot SEL, SES, MEL, instructor, FAA designee

2 members like this: Gtv6george, Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Life Member
Offline
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
and……welcome aboard and I’m honored to give you your first “ like”

We have a lot of unit single owners with lots of knowledge that they are willing to share. You’ve already had two reply to you.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions….try searching first but you really can’t beat real life experience and for the most part unit single folks don’t mind answering any questions.

On line research can be a bit confusing. For that matter you’re going to hear difference opinions on here too…you have to take it all in then decide for yourself.

A perfect example is the EI vs Points question.

It’s nice to see someone your age wanting to give these old beasts a go.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/26/22 12:38 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........"STOP blaming the bike!!!!”
2 members like this: Gtv6george, Allan G
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 311
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 311
I've owned my B44 for over 12 years and my thoughts on the issues at hand are as follows:-
- I would convert to EI, mainly because the advance curve is controlled electronically rather than bob weights and springs. Once setup, EI is usually very reliable though you do need to ensure at least 12v power supply otherwise kick back can happen (at least with Boyer). I've heard good reports about the Vape EI system and would use that if I was building another bike.

- I have no experience with the electrix CDI 12V conversion you mention, usually these bikes rely on an alternator and rotor in good condition, combined with modern a solid state regulator/rectifier and 12v battery. Often people upgrade to a higher output 3 phase alternator and rotor Like This one which requires a 3 phase regulator/rectifier like This Example, shop around for the best deals. Worth checking what you already have as it may be adequate, though the rotors loose magnetism over the years.

- B44's can have a tendency to smoke due to badly seated rings, so with the piston and bore in the condition you mention, I think a re-bore would be a good idea and use the latest Hepolite piston which comes with a modern ring package which is very good. Try to avoid JCC/GPM pistons which come with old style iron rings and are hard to run in. Alternately the JCC/GPM pistons could be fitted with a Hastings ring set which use 3 piece oil control rings and are much better than one piece iron rings.

- I've had a repair shaft fitted on my A65, it was beyond my skills to install it so I farmed it out to a local engineer who did an excellent job for not much money.

Last edited by gunner; 08/26/22 1:37 pm.

1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
2 members like this: Gtv6george, Gordon Gray
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,822
Likes: 276
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,822
Likes: 276
Originally Posted by Gordon Gray
It’s nice to see someone your age wanting to give these old beasts a go.

Dang, this is why I’m old before my time and bitter, no-one ever said nice things like that to me when I started at 20. laugh

Joking aside, I love it when I see young people riding or just getting interested in these old bikes (and not just BSA) these bikes are a real part of history and still a very practical and viable form of transport for modern day, more so than the cars of the same era.

Fairly economical to run even compared to modern bikes.

The only sad thing about them is the cost of spares is getting silly. When I started and for a long time I was earning a pittance, the bike was my hobby and I spent most my pittance and all my free time either tinkering away or going off enjoying rallies. So if you find your not getting on as quick with the bike as you would like (and I was quite impatient at one time) relax, take some time off and do some reading. So much to learn with these things, more than just what the WSM, parts books or mate down the pub can tell you.

Belgium and Netherlands seems to have a great audience of young members, all very active and do a lot of the rallies. We could do with a lot more in Britain.

Britbike is a great resource for getting to know people, and if your not already, look at joining the BSA Owners club. You may even decide to attend some of the international rallies (with or without your bike in attendance)


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

2 members like this: Gtv6george, Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Life Member
Offline
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by Gordon Gray
It’s nice to see someone your age wanting to give these old beasts a go.

Dang, this is why I’m old before my time and bitter, no-one ever said nice things like that to me when I started at 20. laugh

Uh……either we are learning from our mistakes or…….nobody liked you. 😂

Note to George ( the original poster)…….once you’re welcomed into the fold be forewarned. Nothing is sacred and you must have thick skin. 🤪

Oh and DON’T let richrd near any of your women.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/26/22 2:24 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........"STOP blaming the bike!!!!”
2 members like this: Gtv6george, Allan G
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 102
E
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
E
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 102
I would not buy an electronic ignition before you get the bike going. You may be satisfied with the points. While many folks these days seem to think they are absolutely necessary, they are not. A properly working points system works just fine. I have points on all three of my unit singles as well as my Italian singles. They all work fine. The advantages of EI are
1) less maintenance;
2) Costs less to buy if you are faced with buying a new ignition advance and points;
3) linear advance curve (if that is what you are looking for).
The disadvantages of EI are:
1) Most won't run with a low or dead battery like points will;
2) If something does go wrong, its harder to fix by the side of the road;
3) Linear advance curve (part of the thrill with old British Bikes is shove in the back you get when the advance kicks in. You don't get that with EI. Its one of the reasons EI equipped bikes often feel slower even though they aren't.).
With regard to kickbacks, don't start the bike straddling it, and don't start it with short stabbing kicks like you might start a two-stroke. Stand to the side and when you kick it, follow through to the bottom of the stroke. You are much less likely to get a kickback.


Ed From NJ

2 members like this: Gtv6george, Allan G
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 311
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 311
Quote
I would not buy an electronic ignition before you get the bike going. You may be satisfied with the points. While many folks these days seem to think they are absolutely necessary, they are not. A properly working points system works just fine. I have points on all three of my unit singles as well as my Italian singles. They all work fine. The advantages of EI are
1) less maintenance;
2) Costs less to buy if you are faced with buying a new ignition advance and points;
3) linear advance curve (if that is what you are looking for).
The disadvantages of EI are:
1) Most won't run with a low or dead battery like points will;
2) If something does go wrong, its harder to fix by the side of the road;
3) Linear advance curve (part of the thrill with old British Bikes is shove in the back you get when the advance kicks in. You don't get that with EI. Its one of the reasons EI equipped bikes often feel slower even though they aren't.).
With regard to kickbacks, don't start the bike straddling it, and don't start it with short stabbing kicks like you might start a two-stroke. Stand to the side and when you kick it, follow through to the bottom of the stroke. You are much less likely to get a kickback.

I agree with all the points made by Ed and its certainly better to get the bike running with points ignition and see how you get on, before progressing to installing EI. My feeling is that EI offers a significant improvement over points, but only if the rest of the electronics is up to scratch and also the carburation.

Starting these bikes can be problematic, and my preference is to have the bike on the center stand so that any kick energy goes into turning the engine rather than compressing the suspension and then bring the piston up until compression is felt, then kick hard. It helps if the ignition is spot on and not over over advanced which can be a source of kickback.Using a longer trials type kick start can be useful to ensure the engine turns with sufficient speed to get it started.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
1 member likes this: Gtv6george
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,822
Likes: 276
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,822
Likes: 276
Originally Posted by Gordon Gray
Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by Gordon Gray
It’s nice to see someone your age wanting to give these old beasts a go.

Dang, this is why I’m old before my time and bitter, no-one ever said nice things like that to me when I started at 20. laugh

Uh……either we are learning from our mistakes or…….nobody liked you. 😂

I think you mean Like”s”😂.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

1 member likes this: Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Life Member
Offline
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Allan my friend......you do have a reputation!!! laughing

Sorry George.......I tend to get carried away.

My only suggestion ( I'm staying out of the EI vs Points ....I'm still on the fence) would be since you have to go into the gear box........check everything out. There could be a reason the shifter got beat up. It would be a shame to install a NOS shaft and have something else in there worn enough to give you grief.

[Linked Image]

If you have trouble finding a NOS shaft......I can probably come up with a good usable one.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/26/22 9:54 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........"STOP blaming the bike!!!!”
1 member likes this: Gtv6george
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 283
Likes: 43
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 283
Likes: 43
Goerge,
Well not only did you knock the hornets nest out of the tree, you gave it a hefty kick as well asking questions like "should I use EI?".
My answer would be absolutely YES, you are much more likely to get it running BUT don't toss the points in case you end up wanting to "proper" restoration.

I use the Vape / Wassel units on my B441s, very happy and not a single kick back, work happily down to 9v.
Podtronics reg and rec simply work.
Get a new Premier AMAL as soon as you can afford it, but remember that 90% of carb problems are the electrics, Jo Lucas was not known as the Prince of Darkness for nothing..
Re the gear change shaft.... the complete mechanisms do show up, one of mine was toast as well, Peter at BSA Unit Singles is (for me) the go to place for bits and often seems to have stuff not listed on his website, my advise would be to ask.

Rebore .... probably. I did both of mine as one barrel was egg shaped (+40 thou) and the other was trash at an existing +50. With than one I bored out the existing liner and inserted a new one then bored to stock.

If the thing has been sitting around since '79, it may of may not have valve seats suitable for unleaded, now some say you don't need to change them, personally I did (actually did the guides and fitted new valves as well).

Mike Waller of Britannia Motors did a series of YouTubes on rebuilding a B441VS, I found them useful and entertaining.
Well done for getting The Blessed Rupert Ratio books!

1 member likes this: Gtv6george
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Wow I didn’t expect to get nearly as many replies!
I’ll try to get back with more specific replies to everyone but thank you all for welcoming me and all the great advice so far,

I think since I have the whole motor pretty much pulled apart (besides the case half’s waiting on a clutch pulling tool.) I figure the EI is a no brainer. The points don’t look awful but a mouse got to much of the bikes wiring. So I figure no point in fixing all the get the points working just to then switch everyone over the EI. Figure may as well do a 12V and EI conversion all at once. The Boyer seems like a good unit I was leaning more towards the electrix but after hearing about that VAPE one and it’s very reasonable price that might be the direction I’ll go. I’ll have to do more reading.

For the shift shaft I think it would be cool to try and repair it with the piece I got from BSAunitsingles. But if I fail it’s good to know Gordon has a bin of them. Thank you for that offer! I try not to throw stuff out I can fix or attempt to fix. I guess that’s how I end up with abandoned bikes and cars.

The cylinder under closer inspection looks ok not great not bad. I haven’t measured anything yet but I have nice and calibrated bore gauges and other measuring tools from the last engine I rebuilt for my car so I should be able to measure it for out of round and all that. As for the scoring i can’t feel it so it seems like something a ball hone could take out. But I still wouldn’t be opposed to just going for a bore and new piston like Gunner said. Also my bike didn’t come with a center stand. But I was thinking about installing one and after reading that about kicking it over it seems like a no brainer.

I tend to use everything I work on nothing sits around. So any modifications I can do to make it more streetable would be preferred I was lightly reading on the B50 intake valve it would be cool to port the head put a 32mm carb on it with that valve and maybe lighten some components like the Rupert ratio says. Nothing crazy just squeeze a little more out of it so I can get out of the way of the Toyota suv that will inevitably merge into me. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

As for the rest of it I found a crack and bend in one of my case pieces where the stator is which someone previously had repaired with hot glue it looks like. Doesn’t look like RTV pretty janky. Hopefully a good machinist will be able to sort it out. The gearbox I want to take apart and measure all the shims and look for problems but at a quick glance it looks good. And there’s some screw driver pry marks on the kickstart side cover that are pretty damn deep. I figure I can fill them with grey RTV but I’d prefer to have them welded and shaved and try out this well seal or Hylomar that the British bike folks speak so highly of rather than go the rtv route.

And I’m pretty used to mechanical forums don’t worry no one will make me cry. When I’m wrong I’m wrong and at the end of the day it’s all opinions. So far you’re all much more welcoming than the alfa bulletin board. Thanks again for all the advice I’m going to try to figure out how to post photos. So I can show you all the cylinder walls, the cracked case, and the bike itself of course.

Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
https://imgur.com/gallery/4J5vrTp
There’s a bunch of the photos of the bike and everything.

Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Thanks Steve! I bought my Rupert ratio from that site. And even met Peter? I think his name was Peter briefly at the Connecticut British iron show the other weekend. Good resource for sure. Definitely will do EI and take a crack at the gear shaft repair, as for the piston and liner more inspecting will have to be done. Thanks.

Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Yea I may order a ball hone and try to see if that will suffice. I’ll have to do more inspecting if the cylinder and measure it and also see what pistons I can get. And good to see another person in aviation on here! God knows it’s not an easy field to be in. I work on a fleet of C208s on floats operated in salt water part 135. Never a dull moment that’s for sure.
Thanks!

Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
I’d definitely like to find a local club the only one I currently know about is the Connecticut British iron association. I’m sure they could be very helpful. I do get a little impatient but I forced myself to wait for my Whitworth wrenches to come in before pulling the motor apart I can be impatient but I’ve screwed myself too many times ordering the proper tool but getting impatient and trying whatever I’m doing with the wrong tool one too many times so lesson learned there. And I do plan on riding this thing I always wanted a motorcycle I could commute on and take the shortcut off road down the power lines service road on the way in! Thanks Allan!

1 member likes this: Allan G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
The advance is in good shape it seems but the wiring and the points are not so I feel starting fresh with a 12V and EI system might be less of a headache. But I will or course keep every part I take off. Never throw anything away especially when dealing with old machinery. The power curve and delivery makes sense to me I feel like I’d prefer the points power delivery but the rest of the EI benefits make up for it. And thanks for the kickback advice that definitely makes sense. Good to hear from someone fairly close to me. Thanks Ed!

Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
I’ll have to find that YouTube series.

When my valve compressor tool comes in I’ll check out the seat. The exhaust valve had tons of lead on it that I cleaned off. I was thinking about running it on a mix of AVGAS and regular pump gas since I work at an airport and 100LL AVGAS is available. Aviation avgas has 4X the amount of lead that old leaded gas has so I usually mix it with pump gas so it’s not too much. But it may all be unnecessary if I end up replacing the seats and valves and guides etc. hoping to find a 32mm carb and port to match.
Thanks Dave!

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Life Member
Offline
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Peter Quick ( that is probably who you met) is my go to guy on parts for my unit singles......hands down the best. If you can't find it on his listings then ask. He also offers for free a LARGE selection of downloadable manuals. You need a part.......go and look up the part number in his parts manuals. I spend a LOT of time looking through that information......it's priceless.

I have all of the Ruperts........GREAT resources but......PLEASE take a look at YOUR bikes OWNERS manual......easily found on Peter's site.

There "could" be some confusion about some things if you go strictly by Ruperts........do your homework.

Unless somebody did something odd to your bike.......it's always been 12 volt. Upgrading the zenor and rectifier doesn't change the voltage.

I didn't double check your numbers but the Victor Special doesn't have a center stand. The needed lugs are missing. The Shooting Star ( the road version 441 cc ) came with the center stand. It wouldn't be impossible to fab tabs up and use a Shooting Star's stand......but you'd probably want to do that before you put the engine back in.

You gota a good start..

PS......if you want hot......talk with this fellow. https://www.shopevengineering.com/

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/27/22 2:01 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........"STOP blaming the bike!!!!”
1 member likes this: Gtv6george
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Thanks Gordon I’ll try to repair the shaft and if not I’ll definitely buy a good one from you! Seems like we’re off to a good start with this thread I didn’t think as many people would be active and interested but I’m definitely glad I decided to post here and not just in the Facebook group.

1 member likes this: Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Life Member
Offline
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,015
Likes: 567
Originally Posted by Gtv6george
Thanks Gordon I’ll try to repair the shaft and if not I’ll definitely buy a good one from you! Seems like we’re off to a good start with this thread I didn’t think as many people would be active and interested but I’m definitely glad I decided to post here and not just in the Facebook group.

You'll get LOTS of help/advice here.......great group of people. You're up in Peter's part of the world......I'd love to visit him one day and drool over some of the "jewels" he must have.

That cracked piece is the points housing.......easy enough to fix.

At this point in my life.....I'm not selling parts. I might have to one day but I'm not planning on it anytime soon.

If you can use it and I have extras......I'll send them to you.

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/27/22 1:38 am.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........"STOP blaming the bike!!!!”
1 member likes this: Hugh Jörgen
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
Interesting I thought it was 6 since the battery it came with said 6 but the battery wasn’t installed and looked like it was never installed. So that could add up. But yes I have printed a manual off his site but I don’t know if it’s correct I think it was the round barrel manual I printed, I did it before I picked up the bike and had no idea the year so I printed the Victor manual that only went up to 68. So looks like I’ll have to print the proper one. I have been looking through it online though that and the parts manual. If I have to custom fav a center stand I’m sure an aftermarket one may suffice if a roadster one is too difficult to find.

And thank you! Still going to try to repair this shifter shaft first I like a good challenge and I always wanted to play machinist with a lathe. But don’t be surprised if I mess it up and end up asking for that shift quadrant.

I’ll have to make it up to peters actual shop one day I only briefly talked to him at the show seemed like a nice guy.

1 member likes this: Gordon Gray
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 127
Britbike forum member
Online Content
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 127
Your bike is a 70... most of your Fasteners will not be Whitworth.

That side case may not be worth your while repairing, check ebay pricing. Or ask here on Garage Sale board.

2 members like this: Gordon Gray, Gtv6george
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
G
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
So far every fastener that held the engine on and in the engine has been Whitworth. Besides the Phillips heads on the cases.and good point I’ll have to take a look for one. My other thought Is if I convert to CDI would I need that part of the case to even be oil tight so would it matter? As long as I can seal the stator cover?

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

Link Copied to Clipboard
British Cycle SupplyMorries PlaceKlempf British PartsBSA Unit SinglesPodtronicVintage MagazineBritBike SponsorBritish Tools & FastenersBritBike Sponsor






© 1996-2022 britbike.com
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5