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Trying to get the sludge trap out of a '72 650 crankshaft. The plug is out. I pulled out the flywheel bolt over the trap. Can't seem to get the trap to move at all. The manual says use a spoke to pull it out, but I don't have a motorcycle spoke, so I'm trying a heavy bicycle spoke, gripped with locking pliers and tapped with a hammer. It won't move. What are my options?
Al


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Hi.
There are plenty of videos listed on Youtube that show some of the methods that might be applied. Just search for "Triumph sludge trap" and you will find the videos.
Good luck!

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Last edited by AngloBike; 08/22/22 7:31 pm.
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I have a large (1/2"?) easy out. Put a small wrench on the end and it spins the trap right out.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
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i also use an ez out. number 6., drill size 13/32-inch. but i cant get a picture of it

Last edited by kevin; 08/22/22 8:04 pm.

watermelons, and turnips, and a contaminator

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plus 1 ... vintage bike is a master class article .
And lowbrows will get her done too
5/8 tap , threaded just far in enough to catch [Linked Image from vintagebikemagazine.com]
and then a nut run down on the tap will extract

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I usually find that just turning in the tap frees the tube, it just winds out.

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Al, every time I ever run across the bit in the workshop manual about using a spoke to extract the oil tube, I can't help but laugh out loud. It seems like that was a prank by the authors. I have had success using Quinten's method. Best of luck.
-Dave


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finally got this to load. tapping it in seems to loosen the sludge trap, then the flukes bite in as you turn.

if its not tight it doesnt damage the tube.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Hi; most methods are invasive and damage at some point the tube. Ask Don (TR7RVMan) here that have the best method. He showed me the way to make an easy tool to remove the tube without force or damage.

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Hi Al, You have removed the correct flywheel bolt first? Have to ask.

The very easiest way, that allows pulling with zero damage to tube, & also assits in lining up bolt hole on install is make a puller tool from threaded rod. It just works great.

PM me your email & I can send you detailed videos on how this works.

Here's the thing also. The repro tubes & plugs just fit DON'T the same as originals. So I try to save the original plug & tube whenever possible.

In a nutshell I used this as a starting point. Then modified the tool a little.

Scroll down to step 19. This tool is the really good way in my mind. Again zero damage to anything.

http://vintagebikemagazine.com/technical-articles/removing-triumph-sludge-tube/

Don


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Not relevant in this case, but if you have a flywheel bolt that has sheared, put a thick 3/8" washer ino the hole and carefully weld a bolt (suiably tapered) to the washer/sheared bolt. The heat will have softened the Loctite and it will wind out. The bolts invariably shear at the head.I have bought cranks on the cheap because of this problem and fixed them.

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Last one I did i threaded in with M16 tap and had to extract with a bolt and nut, it was really jammed in.


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Thanks so much for all these great replies. Will be heading out to the workshop in a bit.
Al


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Thanks!!!

Sludge Trap Removal_01.JPG

Al Eckstadt
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Does anybody know what the I.D of the sludge tube used in a 500 crank is? I'm assuming its less.


Bike History: Jawa 50 1956, Bridgestone 50/90 Sport 1967, Triumph T120 Bonneville 1970, Yamaha 125 DT125 Scrambler 1974, Kawasaki 125 KE125 Scrambler 1978, AJS model 18 500 Single 1964. Current bike Triumph T100R Daytona 1972.
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Originally Posted by TinkererToo
Not relevant in this case, but if you have a flywheel bolt that has sheared, put a thick 3/8" washer ino the hole and carefully weld a bolt (suiably tapered) to the washer/sheared bolt. The heat will have softened the Loctite and it will wind out. The bolts invariably shear at the head.I have bought cranks on the cheap because of this problem and fixed them.
Not to be awkward Mick, but I recently found one that had sheared between the shank and the thread... grin

Actually pretty relevant I think, as Al will no doubt be prompted to have a good hard look at his bolt(s) and perhaps decide to replace them?

SR

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Originally Posted by Shippy
Does anybody know what the I.D of the sludge tube used in a 500 crank is? I'm assuming its less.
Yes it's significantly smaller. I don't have a number and I'm not sure I have one to measure. I'd guess something like a 7/16 or maybe a 3/8 in tap would be in the ballpark for size. I'll see what I can find tomorrow. Unless CBS beats me to it. thumbsup

SR

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Hi, I would wager most bolts are broken in flywheel by not heating it hot enough to soften loctite. The crank casting is huge & sucks the heat. It takes a long time. I heat until spit boils on side of crank down where threads are. They still are pretty tight to break loose though.
Not heating crank at all is very risky, even if using impact gun.
Don


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https://photos.app.goo.gl/9HxgWhzz4jARBmeB6

This what I have to remove sludge traps. Not an easy out like I said before. Every now and then I have a moment of clarity.


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