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#886633 07/26/22 11:50 pm
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I have a nice little 1994 Royal enfield 500cc bullet. My stator puts out around 25 v at faster than idle and at the same time 13 to 14 volts comes out of thr reg/rec. these are both new Lucas parts from Hitchcocks. the battery does not charge and the headlight draws power from the battery. so i have to manually charge every couple of days. I know im missing something. does anyone have a suggestion or two? thank you

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how old is the battery?


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Something’s a bit strange. Generally a 12v alternator should generate around 35v AC in order to get 12-14v DC. No regulator/regulator is 100% efficient, ie DC out will always be less than half of AC in. Simple test, fully charge battery on bench, check voltage, leave for couple of days, check again. If significant drop duff battery. Only real way to check alternator is to go to local garage and ask them to check it, bike running but battery disconnected. You need to check Watts output not just volts

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Originally Posted by budpotter
13 to 14 volts comes out of thr reg/rec. these are both new lucas parts from Hitchcocks

Ok all good readings.

Does the point where you are measuring that 13-14 volts have continuity to the live battery terminal?


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the battery is quite new and doesn't loose voltage siting on the bench.
The stator produces about 30 v ac
there is no battery voltage showing at the point where i measure the 13 - 14 v dc when running..if i check continuity to battery and turn on the key i get 0.9 volts. if i disconnect the red or black wire from the reg/rec while engine is running it quits. what makes it especially difficult is i cannot find an exact diagram of my wiring
i would think 1994 right hand shifter and kick start is pretty specific

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You don't have the manual for your bike ?
Hitchcocks have scans of owners manuals, you should be able to find one that has a wiring diagram to suit ?

Unplugging and replugging all the connectors as a last resort ?
Particularly around the main switch ....

Has this suddenly developed, or ??

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yes i have a manual for the bike even tho its such simple and easy little machine i don't really need one. the problem is the the electrical diagram(which i do need) is not really like mine. next time im working on the bike im going to concentrate around the ignition switch.the problem began after i tried a quartz halogen headlight. it overloaded my system and thats what prompted me to get new battery stator and reg/rec. the quartz halogen lights went back to amazon as it was a bad move.

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Quote
what makes it especially difficult is i cannot find an exact diagram of my wiring
i would think 1994 right hand shifter and kick start is pretty specific


Kind of depends where it was exported too ... and if a previous owner
has made modifications ... then you have to figure out if the modifications make sense
... the lighting circuit on some models runs on AC ... because it was a little more efficient ,
Eliminating the voltage drop from rectification .


Is the stator a
3-wire with .,. Violet , green , white
or
4 wire ... with Amber and yellow , Violet and violet ... the two violets are rectified to DC ... the Amber and yellow run the headlight off AC
( this may be for later than 94 ? )

there appear to be two different ignition switch terminal connection patterns ... that use the same switch
but are wired differently ,
there is a regular version and UK version

Regular : switch only has functions clockwise of off .
Terminal 2 is ( +V ) from RR ... brown
Terminal 4 ... white
Terminal 6 .. brown
Terminal 10 ( +V ) from battery ... red
Terminal 14 ... blue

UK .. switch has functions clockwise and counterclockwise from middle off position
Terminal 2 is ( +V ) from RR ... brown
Terminal 4 ... brown
Terminal 6 is white
Terminal 11 is ( +V ) from the battery
Terminal 13 ... blue

btw ... the rotor does not need a keeper ... for magnetic stability ... but a keeper helps keep metal filings off the rotor

Last edited by quinten; 08/02/22 12:50 am.
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Thank you for all of that. My brother bought the bike brand new in in 1994 and he did dint do any mods to the electrical system. all he really did was wash the grease slurry out of the gear box and replace it with proper gear oil. Then is sat with the norton, triumph and ariel. In the years he rode it it only gained about 3000 miles. Then he died and i ended up with the enfield. The stator was a 3 wire unit that had the two wires joined. i have since replaced it with a new Lucas 2 wire unit and new Lucas reg/rec thos parts dropped in with no changes. my ignition switch is as you describe as the regular switch. I thought i had burned out either my statoy or reg/rec unit when i installed a headlight that demanded too much power. so since I'm now getting decent power from both of them and my battery and fuse are both good then i must have a bad ground or a contact in the switch is cooked. Perhaps a bad ground altho i have found one of those...yet
Thank you
Bud Potter

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keep at it . ..
the problem started with installing to large of a wattage headlight , right ? .

If there had been no battery installed , this would have just caused an overall voltage drop ,
Limited by the amperage output of the stator ( roughly 10 to 14 amps .. . Depending on the stator )
... a dimming of bulb at lower RPMs ... and maybe sketchy ignition at low rpms also .
( poor performance but really no damage )

But because there is a battery installed ... capable of adding extra 50 or more amps instantly
, the battery will dump more amps
Into the circuit ... to prop up the demand caused by the higher wattage bulb .
( does bike have an amp meter ? ) ... needle would have gone negative to way-negative ...

... this could have overloaded any of the
Connections involving the headlight ... don't know the size wattage bulb you tried to run ,
But you could have overloaded the ignition or lighting switch ... or any of them connections involved .

( you're charging the system might be capable of running a higher wattage bulb ... but maybe only through a relay switch .
where the main load path is moved to a relay... and the switching path to operate the relay is through the original smaller capacity switches )

I think the bike originally came with a separate rectifier and separate regulator module ( containing a half-Bridge with zener ).

where did you connect the new one piece ( regulator rectifiers ) output wires ? ... red to ? ... black to ?

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i dont recall the wattage of the quartz halogen bulb i tried but i do remember the ammeter dipping very low and the engine running very badly. the normal headlight doesn't cause problems but now the ammeter always show half a needle with on the negative side.
This bike never had the two part regulator and rectifies with a zener. so i hooked the new stator to the two yellow wires from the reg/rec and black to black and red to red. im off work now so im going go and check out the main switch and all its connections. Keep up the with the suggestions tho i really appreciate it
Bud Potter

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i found my owners manual finally and it has my wiring diagram in it now i see that my problem could be arising from the ignition switch not sending power to the battery. does that make sense ? so now i need to figure out how to remove said switch from behind the headlight. it has no apparent nuts or other attachments. perhaps i could arrange a jumper from the reg/rec to the ammeter and back to the battery with a switch to disconnect it when not in use.

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your wiring diagram shows which ignition pins are connected ... where and when .
better to investigate fixing the problem ... before starting adding wires and becoming one of those
owners that ... well , you know ...

the UK diagram for 95 shows ignition
pins ( 2, 4 & 6 ) and (11 &13) ... connect for ignition
pins ( 2,4 & 15 ) and ( 8 & 11 ) connect for parking

pins 2 and 11 ... maybe have/had and internal jumper connection ?



[Linked Image from midlandbullets.co.uk]

Last edited by quinten; 08/04/22 3:11 pm.
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yes my diagram shows the switch pin outs and that's where i got the idea of a TEST jumper not a permanent jumper. my bike doesn't have both a main switch and an ignition switch. just the ignition switch. and it only has a single reg/rec not two separate units. i am going to take the ignition switch out today and check check for continuity between the right pins. pictures say more than i can with words but i guess since in new here i'm not allowed to upload anything

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Quote
my bike doesn't have both a main switch and an ignition switch. just the ignition switch. 

Main switch is the 3 way lighting switch .
no lighting switch ?
here"s another diagram ... with a slightly different and simpler ignition switch .
it appears that for some reason both the alternator output and battery are switched into and out of circuit
at the ignition switch ?
[Linked Image from forum.classicmotorworks.com]

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I am on my phone right now but that looks like mine. Ny light switch is a toggle right on the headlight shell.on mine both battety and alternater are switched throw the ignition. Thats ehere the power gets to the battery to charge it. I took my switch appart and cleaned up the contacs which were atrocious. I a new dab of electric frendly grease in and pray to the chuch of darkness(Lucas) that i put it back together in the right position. Hopefully now some electrons will flow the rught way. Ill find out tomorrow i gotta go drive a bus for a few hours now

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well i put the switch back in and started the bike. i get 14 volts at the battery now. it low so its chargine. i also show slightly positive on my ammeter so thats a good thing. funny thing now i turned off the bike and put the headlights in and finished everything off and now when i turn on the key the fuse blows. so now to trace back through my steps to find the short.

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Well i got er fixed. i finally took took the ignition switch apart and cleaned the contacts. now i have power to the battery for charging and the lights dont run off the battery. i show a positive on the ammeter. so all is well now. thank you all for your comments and suggestions


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