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OK, I'm back. Hope you all had a good weekend. My niece and her husband visited, nice family time. They were up here for the Early Ford V8 western states meet.

I've got the primary cover off and the degree wheel set up using a piston stop. I get 30-31 deg BTDC when the crank hole lines up as described by kommando. Rotor mark is off by about 1/4" off the pointer. I took off the alternator stator and rotor. The Woodruff key has a slight amount of shoring but not enough the catch my fingernail on. With the rotor back in place on the key and the shouldered nut in place but not snugged I can get a noticeable amount of rotational play in the rotor. So I will replace the Woodruff key. Should I do anything else here?


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Originally Posted by Jim Harris
......... With the rotor back in place on the key and the shouldered nut in place but not snugged I can get a noticeable amount of rotational play in the rotor. So I will replace the Woodruff key. Should I do anything else here?
Yes. Snug up the nut and check again for rotational play on the rotor because those rotors come loose on their hexagonal core. This makes an ugly noise, disrupts the accuracy of the timing mark and can even come apart and do damage. This will sound a little extreme but grab the rotor with a big pair of channel locks to look for play. Sometimes they'll bind a little.

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+1
Originally Posted by GrandPaul
If you've ever had what sounded like a rod/bearing knock and tore your engine apart only to find the bearings were all good, you must have overlooked the more likely (and MUCH easier) solution - replacing your failed alternator rotor. The body of the rotor on Lucas alternators have a tendency to loosen off their hubs.

I made my second youtube video ever, verifying what I know was the knocking problem on my '67 Bonneville-


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OK, great advice (a little pun there wink ). I clamped up the rotor just like the video and tried to turn it with channel locks, not budging, rock solid. I looked carefully down the keyway and don't see any problem there. So I'll put in the new Woodruff key and see if it seems more secure.

The rotor nut must have been off before because the tab was buggered. So maybe it's not the original rotor, even though it's stamped "7 70" which is the same as the date code on the engine "HD". Maybe it just came loose sometime before...

Looks like the 41-0673 Woodruff key is 0.1595 x 0.60 x 0.235. That's pretty close to a #6? Is there a suitable substitute or should I go with an OEM part number?

Last edited by Jim Harris; 07/21/22 6:34 pm.

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Originally Posted by Jim Harris
...........Looks like the 41-0673 Woodruff key is 0.1595 x 0.60 x 0.235. That's pretty close to a #6? Is there a suitable substitute or should I go with an OEM part number?
Glad to hear your rotor is tight.
You want the key to be a good tight fit in the crank slot and the rotor slot too. If the slots are a little worn the oem size will possibly be too loose and an over thick key becomes a good solution. This means taking a too thick key and grinding/filing/machining it to snugly fit the slots. This works best if the crank slot sides are still mostly parallel and haven't been worn severely tapered by the key rocking back and forth.

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