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Jul 10th, 2022
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Absolutely Fully synthetic isn't good oil for running in new engines, I believe moto guzzi had an issue several years back where they specced fully synthetic oil from new and the fully synthetic oil didn't allow the engine to wear enough to run in, this made them burn oil which led to low oil running which damaged the engines. When i finish my A65T i will run the first 500-1000 miles on mineral/semi synthetic oils before switching to a fully sythetic.

It currently doesn't have the B50 breathing conversion done, Its something i will look into when the engine needs a rebuild but for now everything seems fine so i will leave it until after my A65 if finished.

With the oil filter one of the reasons for fitting it is the increase in oil capacity and hopefully some cooling effect, I'm not particulalry bothered about it being hidden away.

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Just an update on the clutch issue, yesterday i fitted the surflex clutch plates and was suffering with significantly more slip than before i had fitted them (only testing slip on the kickstart), Long story short i eventually realised that the clutch pack was thinner with the new plain and friction plates and this was causing the spring cups to bottom out in the clutch centre i refitted the flattest of the original plane plates to increase the thickness and the slip improved greatly i can still slip the clutch using the kickstart against compression but only if i kick very aggressively I hope to test the bike tomorrow to see what the improvement is like when riding the bike.

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If the clutch is slipping whilst applying pressure to the kick start, it hasn't a snowball in hell chance when you open the throttle and ask it to propel the bike forward


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Originally Posted by Andy Higham
If the clutch is slipping whilst applying pressure to the kick start, it hasn't a snowball in hell chance when you open the throttle and ask it to propel the bike forward

Andy……I’m going to “sort of disagree”. I set up my unit single clutches light enough where you can’t normally kick it through compression. I do it so I end up with the lightest clutch pull at the lever I can get.

There’s no way a B44 with good compression should be started against compression anyway……there’s that starting drill.

I have a hill in my neighborhood that I test my clutch adjustments on. If it’ll make it up that hill in third gear……I’m good.

Can’t say that works for any other motorcycle but it works for my BSA unit singles. (and that’s what the OP is working on)

Gordon

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 08/10/22 10:54 am.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........my son says.... "Everybody is stupid about something"
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I’ve seen big single clutches that would slip if you stood on the kickstart, yet worked well on the road.


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I was informed from the shop that i bought the clutch springs from that some slip on the clutch from the kickstart is possible with the engine being unable to slip the clutch under acceleration.

Some "fag packet" maths seems to back this up, If you assume the engine generates around 28ftlbs of torque at peak, with a 3.5;1 primary ratio you would expect a maximum of 98ftlbs torque to be applied to the clutch from the engine, I'm less sure on kickstart ratio's but i believe the it is 2.25;1 which means to get 98ftlbs of torque on the clutch you would need to apply around 43.5ftlbs on the kick start lever or with a 7" lever a downwards force of around 75lbs on the kick start spring, This is around 1/4 of my weight so i think its very reasonable to assume that i can apply more torque on the clutch with the kickstart than the engine can.

obviously i could have the ratios wrong and there are other factors to consider to get an accurate number but i still think that it will be possible toapply more force to a clutch with the kickstart than with the engine.

I will of course update when i have done a road test (hopefully tomorrow) to update on if the clutch still slips

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Sam, be aware there are different springs and cups for those bikes. Long springs in short cups…..or short springs in long cups can cause some grief.

Gordon


Gordon Gray in NC, USA........my son says.... "Everybody is stupid about something"
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Originally Posted by SamAdamson
I was informed from the shop that i bought the clutch springs from that some slip on the clutch from the kickstart is possible with the engine being unable to slip the clutch under acceleration.

Some "fag packet" maths seems to back this up, If you assume the engine generates around 28ftlbs of torque at peak, with a 3.5;1 primary ratio you would expect a maximum of 98ftlbs torque to be applied to the clutch from the engine, I'm less sure on kickstart ratio's but i believe the it is 2.25;1 which means to get 98ftlbs of torque on the clutch you would need to apply around 43.5ftlbs on the kick start lever or with a 7" lever a downwards force of around 75lbs on the kick start spring, This is around 1/4 of my weight so i think its very reasonable to assume that i can apply more torque on the clutch with the kickstart than the engine can.

obviously i could have the ratios wrong and there are other factors to consider to get an accurate number but i still think that it will be possible toapply more force to a clutch with the kickstart than with the engine.

I will of course update when i have done a road test (hopefully tomorrow) to update on if the clutch still slips

You've gone the wrong way with your maths. With the figures you supplied to get 98 ft/lb on the clutch you will need to apply 220lb to the kickstart


BSA B31 500 "Stargazer"
Greeves 200 "Blue Meanie"
Greeves 350
Greeves 360
GM500 sprint bike "Deofol"
Rickman Jawa 500 "Llareggub"
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Yes i realised when i had a little bit more time to think that the numbers probably aren't correct, i'm not sure the ratio for the kickstart is close anyway so i think that was a waste of time, This can be an issue with ball park figures.

But i can confirm that the clutch holds fine even at high throttle openings in high gears up hills, even with some slight slip on the kickstart so i'm happy with the current set up

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