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#882342 06/05/22 7:44 pm
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Hello kids,
Does the shim cup on the crank fit into the left bearing with shims inside?
Thanks jerry

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JDH #882349 06/05/22 8:46 pm
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Also is the shim cup included in the measurement?
jerry

JDH #882351 06/05/22 9:02 pm
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Yes and yes.

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JDH #882379 06/06/22 3:32 am
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I would describe it more as fitting OVER the bearing than fitting IN the bearing.

If you have the shims that were in there, and they're in good shape, measure your endplay with the shim cup and shims in place. The rotor nut should be tightened when you do this. Look for .0015" to .003" end play.

If you don't have shims, or if yours are damaged, measure with just the shim cup and then figure what shims you need to bring the end play down to spec.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Mark Z #882391 06/06/22 12:39 pm
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Originally Posted by Mark Z
I would describe it more as fitting OVER the bearing than fitting IN the bearing.

If you have the shims that were in there, and they're in good shape, measure your endplay with the shim cup and shims in place. The rotor nut should be tightened when you do this. Look for .0015" to .003" end play.

If you don't have shims, or if yours are damaged, measure with just the shim cup and then figure what shims you need to bring the end play down to spec.


We dont know the bike or the model year, or what bearing it has?

If the bearing is a cylindrical roller type then this is true, but with a ball bearing you will eliminate all the play by tightening the rotor nut.

A shim cup is not a necesity either, if you make a single piece shim out of the correct thickness shim steel then you can forget the shim cup.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
We dont know the bike or the model year, or what bearing it has?

If the bearing is a cylindrical roller type then this is true, but with a ball bearing you will eliminate all the play by tightening the rotor nut.

A shim cup is not a necesity either, if you make a single piece shim out of the correct thickness shim steel then you can forget the shim cup.

Right, I was assuming a roller bearing. Agree about the shim cup, but note that without the cup, the shim(s) have to have a smaller i.d. so they can't slide out of place.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
JDH #882736 06/11/22 1:02 am
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Sorry life happens
It is a 1967 500 Royal Star
Just line reamed on new bush to rollar bearing
.017 total endplay - looking for .002
problem is shim cup is .020 so cannot use it
We are tryin to track down a single shim of .015 1 3/16ID and 1 3/4
Have shims for the cup but ID too large to keep in place
Any one got one on the shelf they would share?
Thanks for any advice
jerry

JDH #882753 06/11/22 7:50 am
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Buy some shim steel and cut to size.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)


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