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#879045 04/30/22 2:53 am
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I have painted my Triumph rear engine plates 3 times now and keep getting a wrinkled finish. I have used exactly the same primer and top coat on the oil tank and got a great finish, just can't understand what isn't compatible with what. Everything was cleaned, one engine plate was chromed, one was original paint but both come out the same. The only difference I can see is it has got a bit colder, but its still above 20 degrees C. Any ideas?


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
British motorcycles on eBay
tiger_cub #879048 04/30/22 3:44 am
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Without seeing this, tricky to say.
When you say the plates were 'cleaned' what precisely does this mean ?
Dusted off, wiped over, or blasted back to bare metal.

And, what paints are we talking about here ?
Spraycans/rattlecans, or something a bit higher up the ladder.
If the old paint(s) were left to simply spray over, thinners/volatiles from a previous life can come back to haunt you.
You may even need an isolator coat to prevent any interactions.
Chrome generally needs an etch primer first before applying anything else also.
Or the paint may decide it doesn't really want to stick in a nice even coat.

Using stuff from the one maker / paint system is generally advisable.
So brand x primer and brand y topcoat may not be such a good mix.

Having said that, I've had bits for projects that seemed to have had about 30 previous colours applied to them.
And they hang on for grim death if you try to rub them back to just a smooth finish...
I also painted a car panel or 2 that had been red somewhere in a previous life.
It came from about 5 coats down to re-colour whatever you tried to do to it !

Back to bare metal as either blasted clean or lightly bead blasted usually ensures success.
And what most pro painters would insist on. ?

Hopethishelps, have fun !

tiger_cub #879053 04/30/22 6:08 am
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I was having that problem after applying a second coat of some enamel spray paint. The problem was, I was not allowing enough curing time for the first coat, and the second coat was lifting the first coat. The humidity was a bit high, which probably lengthened the required curing time. This was on bare, clean metal.

Read the can carefully, and perhaps try a different brand of paint. Some say to recoat within a couple of minutes or after 48 hours, some say recoat any time within the first hour, and some say to wait one day instead of two days.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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tiger_cub #879055 04/30/22 6:30 am
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Perhaps the (slightly ?) 'lower temperature' should extend out the drying time for the primer coat
before applying the top coat ?

tiger_cub #879085 04/30/22 12:23 pm
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Get the parts back to bare steel, you can get some paint stripper discs for an angle grinder, these work really well and don’t remove the steel (unless you really work at them). Get everything off, old paint, chrome, etc etc.

Wash them with clean soapy water (dish soap) I usually squirt it straight on and work it in with my hands before washing it off with clean water. Remove as much water as you can then leave out in the sun dry fully and bring up to temperature. Whilst your at it, put your paint in the sun too.

Use a zinc or acid etch primer. Better still would be a 2k epoxy. Eastwoods make one in a tin, with a built in activator. Works great!

Let it cure for a day between different coat type changes (ie primer to top coat to lacquer) a few hours is fine for re-coating. Plenty of dust coats will dry quicker and can be re coated quicker.

Once it’s cured you can flat it as many times as you like, just don’t do this too soon.

Top coat, get a “black base coat” from your local paint factors. Forget hammerite or any nonsense like that. You’ll also do your self a bigger favour by NOT buying a gloss paint. Gloss paints want to run much easier and can be harder to lay down. UPOL also sell a good black base coat if you don’t have a good local paint place.

I’ve only ever had one problem with a pre made tin, that wrinkled like crazy and it was the fault of the base coat. Probably too much solvent or something.

Get yourself a decent 2k lacquer. The best I’ve used is Eastwoods 2k activated high gloss lacquer. It’s very fuel resistant (used to be fuel proof but must have changed the formula).

Also if it say shake can for 2mins from the point you can hear the ball rattle. Set a timer. 2 mins is longer than you think.

HTH


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

tiger_cub #879097 04/30/22 2:18 pm
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+1 MARK Z


Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
tiger_cub #879145 04/30/22 10:06 pm
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Thanks for the advice everyone. These are just regular Dulux heavy duty black spray cans, matching primer. Maybe there is something on there that I can't clean off, but as the start surfaces are different, maybe that isn't it. Same primer and paint has given a great finish on other parts. I am going to strip off and start again.I did notice that when I sanded off last time, the black coat came off in rolls and not dust, seemed still a bit sticky.


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
tiger_cub #879160 05/01/22 2:11 am
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The problem you have been having is caused by too many heavy coats without enough time to dry between coats. Essentially you are trapping thinner under each coat when it should have evaporated. After while so much builds up that it attacks the paint and causes it to wrinkle.

Try holding your can further away from the piece and applying much lighter coats.


Call up the craftsmen
Bring me the draftsmen
Build me a path from cradle to grave
And I'll give my consent
To any government
That does not deny a man a living wage
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tiger_cub #879199 05/01/22 3:55 pm
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I am glad you tuned in on this, Rod.

Because of all the painting you do, I figured you would have an answer.

tiger_cub #879204 05/01/22 4:33 pm
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Yup, too heavy coats, in cold weather cause the reaction. Using spray cans is simple but a few rules apply.
I like to let the can warm in the Sun or heat the can in warm water. First coat is lite and hold the can 12-14 inches away.This first coat is like an adhesive for the next coat to grip to. I like to think of paint as colored glue… wipe the spray nozzle clean with a solvent especially when you put the can away. Speaking of spray nozzles some some can be changed for vertical or horizontal patterns.
If you decide to color sand and rub out the piece wait till the final coat is completely dry.
Good luck

tiger_cub #879217 05/01/22 9:59 pm
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A few hours in the sun, first coat now looks better. I like to keep a selection of spray can nozzles with different patterns


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
tiger_cub #879586 05/05/22 11:43 am
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Second coat was just as bad. i have admitted defeat on these engine plates so found another set i had. After a good clean and rubbing down, same paint went on and gave a near perfect finish. must be something on those other ones, that will be for another day to fix, i've spent too much time on them......


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
tiger_cub #881399 05/24/22 8:45 am
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Just tried with the footrest brackets - same dimpled result! Only thing I can put it to is the primer reacting, don't know why, I even warmed the can and parts up first. This has not happened before its frustrating to say the least. Strip off and start again.......tomorrow.


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
tiger_cub #881403 05/24/22 11:23 am
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"Dimpled result?"

Do the dimples look like "fish eyes?" If so, someone has sprayed some silicone in the area somewhere.

Once silicone is on something it is almost impossible to get rid of it.
Some car waxes have silicone in them.

tiger_cub #881425 05/24/22 5:40 pm
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What are you using as an etch primer? Can you post a picture of the finished result?

Last edited by R Moulding; 05/24/22 5:41 pm.

Call up the craftsmen
Bring me the draftsmen
Build me a path from cradle to grave
And I'll give my consent
To any government
That does not deny a man a living wage
tiger_cub #881429 05/24/22 9:30 pm
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I am using Dulux red oxide primer, perhaps I have a faulty batch can, the others I have done turned out really nice.


1958 5TA / T100
1965 T120R
1970 TR6
1970 TR6C
tiger_cub #881441 05/24/22 11:47 pm
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A couple of years ago I bought a "Dave Hills" center stand for my newly acquired Vincent Rapide. (Now unfortunately it is Dave Hills RIP).
The change involved changing the rear engine plates---- the new ones were supplied as part of the kit.
The engine plates and stand were supplied unpainted.
I degreased the components applied a phosphoric acid solution and everything looked good.
I then applied a coat of POR-15.
The stand looked fine but the engine plates went all wrinkled.
I removed the paint from the plates, degreased and repainted.
Same wrinkled result.
I decided that the problem was that the plate had been contaminated by oil used in the rolling process which had been rolled deep into the surface of the plate.
Part of the reason I came to that conclusion was that the flat faces of the plate were wrinkled whereas the paint finish on the edges of the plates was fine.
So I removed the paint from the plates (again) and then sanded them down with coarse then fine emery paper.
Repeated the painting process and the paint finish was fine.
HTH

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tiger_cub #881471 05/25/22 8:30 am
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I would go along with Tridentman but also swap the primer for a 1k epoxy. This should completely seal of the bare steel.


Call up the craftsmen
Bring me the draftsmen
Build me a path from cradle to grave
And I'll give my consent
To any government
That does not deny a man a living wage
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tiger_cub #881563 05/26/22 1:25 pm
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These are great for removing paint, filler and even weld splatter. They will leave the surface perfect for painting/primer without the damage that a flap disc can do.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)


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