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Greg H Offline OP
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I have a 1967 East Coast Hornet that at some point was converted to a Mity Max battery eliminator that is shot. It also has 6 volt coils and has points which I would like to keep. There is a Podtronics 200W / 12-Volt Regulator / Rectifier battery Eliminator but I don’t now if it is compatible which appears to be a 6 volt system. Anyone know if this would still work or do I need something to boost the alternator? I would also like to keep the system batteryless. The bike is mostly for show but would like to keep it running.

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I don't like these all in one jobs as capacitors age faster than the rest of the electronics. The battery less bit is best done with a separate capacitor equivalent to the factory fitted Lucas 2MC, when it fails its easy to replace. Then use one box for the rectification and regulation. Your alternator will be 150W max, no need for a 200W box.

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a 66 hornet would have been delivered with a ET stator .
( 5 wires )
This can be wired to run at 6 or 12 volts ... with a limited output .

there may also be an RM19 stator fitted .
These are ( three wire ) and can wired for 6 or 12 volts ... with ok power .

it would help to know what stator you have ... before going too far out on any particular advice limb .

There are a number of ways you can keep the points and 6 volts coils
... at 6 or 12 volts ... with or without a battery .
( you need to investigate which points cam the bike is running ... this matters )

...it wouldn't surprise me if the bike is running 6 volt coils at 12 volts with an ET points cam

do you need road lights ?

running a separate 2MC capacitor ( or something equivalent ) like kommando recommended is
A good idea , as the capacitor can be switched out... as its own piece if necessary .

the Mity Max may even still work as wired ? ... if the capacitors failed "open"
adding a 2mc capacitor on the output side ... could restore the bike to running ( sans battery )
( it depends on how the Mity failed )
... kind of a dodgy way to go considering the age of the components .

any new regulator rectifier with an external capacitor fitted
Replicates the circuit idea of the mity
( and the Podronix unit , you linked to ... will work )

here is a pdf of the mitys wiring methods
http://www.britcycle.com/manuals/332104Inst0504.pdf
.
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Greg H Offline OP
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Thanks for the reply

The stator only has two wires, a solid blue and green that do not look old. So it's probably an RM19 that is 12 volts? The bike has added lights. I'm thinking now I should just add a battery and a Podtronics and be done with it. If it's 12v can I keep the 6v coils or should I get a 12v dual coil-like what EMGO has or another type?

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I prefer a battery, 12 volt coils, Podtronics regulator.

Last edited by Roadwarrior; 05/15/22 5:50 pm.

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Originally Posted by kommando
I don't like these all in one jobs as capacitors age faster than the rest of the electronics. The battery less bit is best done with a separate capacitor equivalent to the factory fitted Lucas 2MC, when it fails its easy to replace. Then use one box for the rectification and regulation. Your alternator will be 150W max, no need for a 200W box.

+1, Podtronics reg/rec with rm24 alternator, battery and 22000uf @25vdc capacitor. Works perfectly With or without the battery. The advantage with the battery is that I still have power when the engine isn’t running.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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i still see "MITY MAX" units on Ebay from time to time.

I assume all of them must be junk by now.

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Originally Posted by Greg H
Thanks for the reply

The stator only has two wires, a solid blue and green that do not look old. So it's probably an RM19 that is 12 volts?

That would be jumping to a conclusion , with not facts .
those are not stock Lucas wire colors for anything . There is likely another splice , or splices ,
deeper inside the wiring ...anywhere between the mity and the stator .
You don't have to , but you might want to investigate the stator as far back as inside the primary case .
( it's always nice to know what stator you have , to balance against it's potential power output )
( it all goes back to how reliable do you want the ride to be / weighed against how much time and maybe money you want to spend
... if you go back into the mity installation pfd I posted , it even shows how to convert a 5 wire ET stator to 12 volts
this would have been the original type stator installed on a hornet .


when did the bike last run ?... and for for how long ? , a few minutes are long enough to really warm up ?
what wattage headlight ?
and how dim was the headlight at idle ?

Quote
The bike has added lights. I'm thinking now I should just add a battery and a podtronics and be done with it.

A stock hornet doesn't have a battery tray .
If you add the podtonics with the capacitor , install it in place of The Minty and see how it goes .
( there are cheaper options than the podtronix route , but its a good product with customer service )
You can always go to the hassle of adding a battery at any time afterwards .

Quote
If it's 12v can I keep the 6v coils
yes...but 12 volts into a 6 volt coil will over heat them ... not instantly but within 20 minutes , where they may or may not fail
... and they may or may not recover when they cool .
but all is not lost ... this problem can be deceptively easy to fix .

add a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor , in the supply line , to the coils .
one ballast can run both coils ( this is/was an extremely common $2 part on most cars up until the mid 70s )
You can still buy this $2 part for $20 ( young parts counter guys will be dumbfounded , but the store will have the part )

It's kind of important that you only run the AAU at 6 V ... because you don't know what kind of
points cam you have ... there are three possible types ... all three can run safely at 6 volts ( across the points )
Not all three can be run safely at 12 volts . ( one of the three types caused BSA engine seizure problems for a year-and-a-half )
all of 1966 and first half of 67

Quote
or should I get a 12v dual coil-like what EMGO has or another type?

Definitely not , this would be an advanced move that MacGyver might try if captured in a barn
With a milk crate of old parts and an old brit bike ... and the show was down to 10 minutes and the plot had to be wrapped up .
... there is no common sense purpose to running a dual output coil off of 2 sets of points
it can be done ... but...
both sets of points would have to be wired in series and the points cam dwell would have to be compatible

you could run 2 single 12 volt coils ... but only if the points cam is of the 160 degee type . ( fitted from mid 67 )
( simpler and cheaper to add a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor )

one more reason to check the aau . It could be the original ET cam , which surprisingly can run on DC
... but it has a very limited retard ( approximately half the BSA norm )
and this can make the bike harder to start .

Last edited by quinten; 05/16/22 12:08 am.
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Greg H Offline OP
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Thanks-The bike belonged to a good friend of mine and the last time it ran was probably 10+ years ago and I don't recall how well it ran. I'm restoring it to be mainly a show bike and it will be seldom ridden. I do want to fire it up periodically because I love the sound and it will keep things lubricated. At age 72, I can't kick start as many times as I use to (if the bike is stubborn) so I want something more reliable. Based on your replies, I'm leaning now towards a Boyer and Podtronics system with a battery which I am very familiar with and have installed and used on 5 other bikes I have owned over the years. I could also keep the 6 volt coils if they are still good. Really didn't want to spend the bucks but my leg will thank me. I'm curious now about the stator so will explore more.

Greg

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if the bike isn't to be run much , I would avoid installing a battery .
each battery sitting around , is just another maintenance .
( a real BSA Hornet wouldn't have a battery )

set up the bike to run without a battery , poptronics with capacitor .
Boyer ign. if you want ( you have the 6 volt coils )
save the old ignition Bits , you never know , someday someone may want them.

and jump start the bike , with another battery , on those cold start days .
( you could even add a plug in connection to make jump starting a quick routine )


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