Decided to see how the carbs and filter looked on it. Fuel lines need another 150 degree banjo, so that is on order.as well as some 1/8" stainless tubing for the oil pressure gauge. I'll run nylon from the frame to the gauge on the handlebars, but don't trust it near the exhaust and copper work hardens and cracks too easily. Used the lathe to modify the 1/8" tube compression fitting to adapt to the 5/16" NF port to the oil galley. https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/carbs-and-filter-on-a-jpg.235781/
Hi Pid----about half way down the rear down tube of the frame there is a lug that sticks out forwards . The lug has a blind hole in it from the top. There should be a small rubber buffer that sits in the blind hole. The air filter is supposed to rest on top of the rubber buffer. HTH.
Air cleaner buffer and crankcase to air cleaner tube installed. Oil tank and battery box installed. Oil line from tank to engine installed Major wrestling match this morning getting the new oil line through the old protection spring, but finally got it there. They sent 1/4" tube instead of 1/8", so I had to order that again. Exhaust header is off to a friend to get the hole in it TIG'd up.
Header welded up and the 1/8 tubing for the oil pressure gauge came in. I'll run the tubing up the front tube to the headstock, then splice to nylon tubing for the flex to the bars.
Starting the wiring. Ran replacement leads to the points, set the gaps, and did initial timing. The old leads were very stiff and had cracking insulation. Found an ebay front fender from a Honda (they think) that was cheap. It looks like I will be able to fit it to the Triumph with minimal modifications.
Been busy with other tasks, but did get to spend a few minutes on the T150 yesterday (before the Derby). Ran leads from the alternator plug to the reg/rect and from the reg/rect to the battery (which I don't have yet) also the sense wire to the key switch. Used woven plastic mesh loom cover on it that a fellow GoldWinger sent me from Canada.
Probably the last bit for several weeks. Chain master link finally came in, allowing me to remove the doubled concrete tie wie that was holding it together. I'm helping with a bike show this week in Sevierville and vacation preps and travel after that. Also have to prepare a nice flyer for our October 1st bike show at church. The bike will still be there and be just as needy when we return.
Enough wiring completed to test the engine in a few weeks when I get the time (and space) for it. Nothing (except clutch and throttle) to the handlebars yet, though.
Back from a great beach vacation with the family. Visited a friend on the beach that I had made through a GoldWing forum. He has rescued a '75 GL1000 and it was great to see him and the progress that he had made on the bike.
Lots of wiring parts in from Vintage Connections for me to finish up the T150 wiring (hopefully) when I get time. Includes LEDs for the dash (headlamp shell) for oil, hi beam, and turns.
Next few weeks might be busy, though. Several shows coming up that I'd like to put my '78 GL1000 or '76 RD400c in. Plus wedding anniversary, wife's birthday, and several commitments I've made. But, it will happen.
Hooked up the aux bottle and tried to get some response from her. Kicked long enough (three sessions) to turn the oil pressure light off, but no joy. 80F and humid is hard on this nearing 70 year-old couch potato doing that! Rolled it back in to think, regroup, cool off. Then I remembered - how hard would it be to start at full advance? Yeah, I'd left the washer on the points cam. Tomorrow is a new day, and the rear fender extension finally arrived from China! Looks like very close to a perfect fit.
Ok, I think the problem is located. Seems when setting the points, I backed off the valves to ease rotating it. Need to set them back properly so the compression isn't zero on #2 and 3 (and 50 on #1). After church tomorrow that might get attacked. I really worry about getting this absent-minded so soon.
Still waiting for new screws (due tomorrow) for mounting the points mine are buggered beyond use. I have received new brass eccentric screws and installed them. The point gap adjustment eccentrics required filling the base OD to fitm but that was sorted quickly. Everything but the rear brake switch is wired (no rear brake peddle mount yet). I've fit up a replacement to the rear fender and attached it to the existing front section. Now it needs to come off for sand blasting the chrome off and priming. Hopefully our AC gets fixed soon, and I'll feel like trying to kick it off.
Coming along! Yesterday evening UPS delivered the screws. A bit too short for the backing plate, but the point plate screws fit well. All together for hopefully setting static time (again) and points gap. Hope to get to that today, but going this morning to look at my next project - a '75 GL1000. Then will have to re-arrange and discard (needed) a lot of 'stuff' in the tractor shed to make room for it until the Triumph is finished.
BTW, to remind me of removing the washer from the points cam it is now stored in a "timing bag" with a 2 cylinder degree wheel assembly, and the crank locator pin gizmo. Timing the T150 takes more time and effort than the 4 cylinder GL1000.
Latest kick-over yielded about 5 seconds of run and several other promising chufs, but no continuous run. Plug inspection showed only #1 seems to have anything on it so will probably re-visit carbs this coming week.
Finally making noise! I do believe the main problem was bad gas. I had been using some (stabilized) premium non-alcohol that was about six months old. Replaced it with regular (87 octane) non-alcohol. It is a start. I had it running about ten minutes before the video (a little surprised when it started) and it had warmed up well - had good return oil flow but the pressure never got over 80 psi and fell at idle to ~ 20 psi. This is with 15w40 however - usinf thinner oil at first to flush things out. It will get changed to 20W50 before the next start.
With 20W50 Castro GTX it sounds much better. Strobe showed all cylinders a bit too far advanced. New points screws are here, so that will all get addressed soon.
Pulled the points cam off of the taper and retarded it a bit.Static check shows it correct now. Will have to wait for cooler weather before I roll it out back to test.
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