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May 8th, 2022
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johnu Offline OP
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Hi all, got my clutch plates in the mail today from Baxter Cycle. I ordered one extra plain and one extra friction plate as it looked like there is room in the basket for one extra of each. Pics below show standard 4 and 5 plates and also with the extra one added 5 and 6, do you think there is an issue adding the extra plate or should I just go with the original quantity?
[Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image]

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When you stack up the A65 plates they look more like your second set of images. If it was me I’d want to fill the basket more too. There’s plenty of room for the plain plate to ride up the centre and the friction plate to not leave the basket.

I’d look at either shortening or replacing that clutch push rod whilst I’m at it too. It’s heavily dimpled and will likely mushroom. It wants making flat then heating till cherry red then quenching in oil. I radius the ends on mine, making them a little more like a ball end.


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Clutch push rod length may be your only issue. There were a number of different lengths available.

IME, an alloy pressure plate makes those clutches much nicer


Never underestimate the human ability to elevate stupid to a whole new level!.
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johnu Offline OP
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I will get one of those ally pressure plates as I see they have the adjuster in the center. Do you use the spring holders from the old pressure plate?

Last edited by johnu; 04/23/22 8:36 pm.
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Hi Johnu
Yes, there should be no reason to replace the spring cups
You will need to check that the springs are the correct ones and that they do not become coil bound when the clutch is pulled in
The alloy pressure plate with radial thrust bearing has a short pushrod as part of it and the old one has to be shortened to suit
Check the condition of the actuator thrust / adjuster on the kickstart side it has a captive ball bearing that should be free to rotate
The adjuster should be in line with the pushrod and the cable arm parallel or just past when the clutch is pulled in

John

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johnu Offline OP
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Originally Posted by chaterlea25
Hi Johnu
Yes, there should be no reason to replace the spring cups
You will need to check that the springs are the correct ones and that they do not become coil bound when the clutch is pulled in
The alloy pressure plate with radial thrust bearing has a short pushrod as part of it and the old one has to be shortened to suit
Check the condition of the actuator thrust / adjuster on the kickstart side it has a captive ball bearing that should be free to rotate
The adjuster should be in line with the pushrod and the cable arm parallel or just past when the clutch is pulled in

John
Thanks for the info John! I supposed the trickiest part will be determining the correct length to cut the rod.

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Hi Johnu
Get a length of 1/4in. or 6mm mild steel rod, use this to experiment and get the correct length for the pushrod
once you are happy with the length of the MS rod use it as a guide to cut the original to size
Re harden both ends of the pushrod by heating to "cherry" red and quenching in water, polish the ends to bright steel and re heat
until it starts to discolour (straw colour) and leave to cool. test for hardness with a smooth file, it should not cut into the hardened ends

John

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johnu Offline OP
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Clutch is all back together ready for a test ride this weekend!
[Linked Image]

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johnu Offline OP
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The new clutch set up is a total success it works a treat! Forty mile mountain loop this morning for testing. Plops into 1st now with little to no clunking, no slip, no drag and slips into neutral as easy as you like when stopped at the lights. Very happy, and thanks for the help guys.

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