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reverb Offline OP
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Hi Allan; those 107º are not so good for the T140 inlet. The article advocates to change it. Seems that between 98 and 103 is what the 7016 would be (for a normal use)
I still think that I am doing something wrong (because there is no detailed information to follow)
If I remove the rocker boxes and can manage to put the clock with the right angle on the pushrod I would compare the numbers but I have this T140 engine in a T120 loop and I do not see enough space.
May be with an extension ON the pushrod to have the clock over the frame?

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Hello; I did not obtained good numbers so I let all the stuff there until I studied a bit more but after few checks I still do not have good numbers.

This time for comparison I put all the wheels at factory marks (T140)
7016 inlet and 9989 exhaust.
With a valve clearance of 0.020 motor assembled; I obtained about 96.5 IN and 93.25 EX!
With a valve clearance of 0.040 and a 0.004 feeler gauge as a feeler between adjuster and valve I obtained 1 degree less; but could be from imprecise in the manipulations etc

There are only 3 possibilities:
-I am doing the technique wrong (very possible)
-Most do the techniques wrong so the numbers out there are not right.
-Some techniques are not so precises.

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Your technique may be right but your timing gears could be out.

Not only are you lucky enough to have 3 keyways on the pinions. But you can also adjust the timing by a tooth each way (potentially) giving you 9 opportunities to align it to where you want it. Each tooth offset is equal to 14.4° At the crankshaft.


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Or, so long as you can get your indicator on the valve well enough, set the lash at 0 for E and X and take readings at .060 and figure your centers from there. This should give you repeatable and consistent results.

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Yes, what Tom says, no lash....This cam timing on a Triumph is best when done with the rocker boxes off, dial indicator on a push rod. Use a hand made wire guide to keep the pushrod alligned as you cycle the engine...You may not be able to get around 100 degrees with just the three keyways. You may need to advance or retard the cam gear one tooth and then try the keyways....Work slowly, and carefully and when frustrated, walk away for a time....


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Hi guys; of course and for sure I walked away for a time but I need to put the covers etc due to the rust is starting to appears no matter the lubrication; is opened since 3 months ago.
-I understand the fact that I need to find a new mark etc and that is what I did years ago and now I am trying to do the test due to I did not remembered what exactly is what I did so I removed the IN wheel and now I have all aligned to factory marks hence that I am saying that I am doing something wrong because many talk about different numbers checking the stock marks with stock and 9989 camshafts.
And that is an important point due to I really need to verify that before to continue forward that may be finishing with the wheels in a wrong place damaging the valves etc later.

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