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When you stack up the A65 plates they look more like your second set of images. If it was me I’d want to fill the basket more too. There’s plenty of room for the plain plate to ride up the centre and the friction plate to not leave the basket.
I’d look at either shortening or replacing that clutch push rod whilst I’m at it too. It’s heavily dimpled and will likely mushroom. It wants making flat then heating till cherry red then quenching in oil. I radius the ends on mine, making them a little more like a ball end.
Now let’s all have a beer  68’ A65 Lightning “clubman” 71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt) 67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration) 68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Clutch push rod length may be your only issue. There were a number of different lengths available.
IME, an alloy pressure plate makes those clutches much nicer
Never underestimate the human ability to elevate stupid to a whole new level!.
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I will get one of those ally pressure plates as I see they have the adjuster in the center. Do you use the spring holders from the old pressure plate?
Last edited by johnu; 04/23/22 8:36 pm.
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Hi Johnu Yes, there should be no reason to replace the spring cups You will need to check that the springs are the correct ones and that they do not become coil bound when the clutch is pulled in The alloy pressure plate with radial thrust bearing has a short pushrod as part of it and the old one has to be shortened to suit Check the condition of the actuator thrust / adjuster on the kickstart side it has a captive ball bearing that should be free to rotate The adjuster should be in line with the pushrod and the cable arm parallel or just past when the clutch is pulled in
John
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Hi Johnu Yes, there should be no reason to replace the spring cups You will need to check that the springs are the correct ones and that they do not become coil bound when the clutch is pulled in The alloy pressure plate with radial thrust bearing has a short pushrod as part of it and the old one has to be shortened to suit Check the condition of the actuator thrust / adjuster on the kickstart side it has a captive ball bearing that should be free to rotate The adjuster should be in line with the pushrod and the cable arm parallel or just past when the clutch is pulled in
John Thanks for the info John! I supposed the trickiest part will be determining the correct length to cut the rod.
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Hi Johnu Get a length of 1/4in. or 6mm mild steel rod, use this to experiment and get the correct length for the pushrod once you are happy with the length of the MS rod use it as a guide to cut the original to size Re harden both ends of the pushrod by heating to "cherry" red and quenching in water, polish the ends to bright steel and re heat until it starts to discolour (straw colour) and leave to cool. test for hardness with a smooth file, it should not cut into the hardened ends
John
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Clutch is all back together ready for a test ride this weekend! ![[Linked Image]](https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/15982/filename/IMG_0839.jpg)
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The new clutch set up is a total success it works a treat! Forty mile mountain loop this morning for testing. Plops into 1st now with little to no clunking, no slip, no drag and slips into neutral as easy as you like when stopped at the lights. Very happy, and thanks for the help guys.
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