Thank you for all the detailed information hardarser. Very helpful
I purchased the parts from our friendly Vincent
parts supplier. I do understand what you are saying about the type of bearing and I did make sure I was using the correct type. I am lucky to frequently make bearings here for veteran machines and was lucky to learn early on that bearing types are important without having to get chucked off a bike.
When I disassembled the transmission the clutch bearing plates were reversed...not to mention a few other poorly assembled components and a crack between the shift drum bore on the drive side and the output bearing bore. After correcting these and installing the missing blanking plug I was on the path to success. Most of the parts are badly worn...which does not match the current condition of the motorcycle (perfect looking bike with serious wear under the gloss)
I did have to rectify a mushroomed ratchet sleeve that was binding the Kickstarter intermittently and assumed I would need to take up the slack here..but after finding a new piece and measuring the difference I could not justify the total thrust with the <5 thou difference in the sleeve length. This is aside from the detail that the spring for the sleeve was pinched between the bearing and the sleeve itself upon disassembly.
The mainshaft is worn - to a taper. I did "micro" polish it as I have been with all bearing shafts. Micro seems to be the new fancy way of charging more for a 100+ year old service to a plain bearing. I was able to get the recommended clearance throughout the high gear bushings even with the taper in the shaft...I was happy with that bit of work.
Learing from mistakes in the past I made sure to take up all the hardware to full torque
with gaskets in place and then perform my measurements. As an example I was able to find .008" more when making sure the transmission mounting bolts were fully tight. I did double check again after your suggestion. This detail is easily looked over.
And the controversial detail...Oil
I have been converting these to actual oil. Calling a number of oil makers and settling into Amsoil and BelRay here in the states I have found both make a product safe for the bearings and with enough EP additives to make for a safe long term operation. The work is in keeping the oil in the box as Irving mentions.
I put quite a few off road hard miles on my Burman/B34 and found the conversion to save me lots of grief.
Thank you again. Your details are excellent. I was not able to find them in any of the many Burman articles.