Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board A65 cylinders, lined and unlined ...

No, no PMs from you, something going on with the system...

Lannis, I’ve sent you a “test” PM.

Lannis,
I don’t want to put my cell number on a public post. Call or text Rich. He has my number.

Ed

Lannis,
After looking at your pics closely it looks like the machinist did not have the cylinders perpendicular before starting the boring. Not sure whether it was done on a vertical boring machine or perhaps a Bridgeport milling machine. In either case a slight ding or nick on any portion of the cylinder that contacts the table could cause what you are showing. After it is clamped down it has to be checked with a dial before centering it up for the bore.

It reminds me of an old German farmer that used to trade milk and butter to our family for my father's help repairing his machinery. He had an ancient lathe in his barn that was treadle operated. He would make small parts for his equipment. After finished a small piece one day he stated while looking at his work,, "Even when it is perfect, it is not good enough". That is the mentality a machinist must have.

Mr Mike

As much as I admire the theory of this "

, "Even when it is perfect, it is not good enough". That is the mentality a machinist must have."

The problems are ( if you are working as an engineer)

1. there is a price in time for perfection.
2. customers ( generally ) want Rolls Royce parts for a Ford price
3 , they will want to discuss a 1 hour job for 2 hours
4 , much of non engineers thinking is informed by tripe on the net
5 customers often have no idea of the equipment/tooling needed.

My maxim always was "fitness for purpose" , having said that the above reasons are why i did not do 1 off jobs. I did production work where everything was clearly defined BEFORE I quoted a job

as soon as a customer said "cant you just,,,,," i would think here we go again

DANG i like being retired hahahahah

Somethings wrong for sure.

I've been looking for 3 days for 68-0908, A65 .020-over pistons. Not a single vendor sponsor on this Forum, nor any of the outfits like Draganfly or Walridges or Burton Bike Bits, has any such pistons. There are a few "NOS Hepolite" pistons for $350 each on eBay, but that's no go.

Finally found an eBay vendor in Australia that advertises them, and they've taken my payment, so I guess I'll know in 3 weeks whether these pistons are made of cheese or aluminum.

We many not be able to play at this hobby much longer if this is the way it's going to be .....

Lannis

Just had a look at MAP, same again. Every other size but not +.020

If they are JP pistons be warne that the weights will be nothing like original so the crank will need to be rebalanced
Also toss the rings they are not suitable for cast iron bores and take forever to bed in ( way too hard )

Also check any JP piston for missed machining operations, seen one with the piston diameter all the same to the top, the relief diameter for the rings was missed completely, 10yds running before seizure. Their rings will draw blood when removed by hand as they are so stiff and unyielding.

Don't understand, i found these in about 2 minutes.............
I don't like JP as they are heavy and the rings need to be changed.

https://www.trojanclassics.com/piston-set-bsa-a65-650-unit-0.020-eng0145

https://www.classicbikepartscheshir...complete-9-1-ratio-made-in-england-p3249

https://www.britcycle.com.au/product-category/bsa/motor-bsa/piston-rings-motor-bsa/

https://www.feked.com/hepolite-pistons-for-bsa-a65-650cc.html

The top one, trojanclassics, is the one I finally bought from. I was looking for just bare pistons, since I already have the new rings (68-0908). A couple places had sets with rings (68-0786).

I didn't know that "feked" was a real thing, so I skipped it. That's not a proper name for a motorcycle parts supplier!

Lannis

The ones you have bought are jcc/emgo/hepolite and are good.

Feked are a good supplier even if the name is strange.
I'm used to having to search around the world for bits as
no-one here seems to stock much these days.
I also use Britishspares in NZ they are good too.

Well, shipping from Australia was quoted at $20-something Australian, and three weeks time .... If there are none in the US, I'll take it.

I'm glad to hear that it's likely that they are quality pistons!

Lannis

Well, while my 20 over Firebird pistons are on the Pacific Ocean trying to get here, I'm doing other little things. I bought a new fender from India and so far all the holes match up and it appears to be well made. I made up a new three wire harness for the taillight, but as I was bolting it back up, I noticed that the taillight support plate was cracked across, so ordered one of those. I'll go ahead and mount the chain while the fender and chain guard are off... Much easier that way. Got a headlight reflector on the way, so will be checking the headlight wiring and getting the front back together.

Nothing amazing here, no incredible fabrication and white glove assembly, just the stuff we all have to do to keep these old nails running....

Lannis

Apparently the garage pixies grabbed my A65 lower left shock mounting bolt (40-6910, 3/8" BSC x 1-7/8" 26 tpi) 'cause it's gone.

Needs to be 1-7/8" because there's not much clearance between the bolt and the wheel, needs to be 3/8" BSC because that's how the sleeved nut it fits into is threaded.

I can get a 2" long one from Australia or from Baxter's and grind/cut it down, but they're $15 shipped. Maybe I ought to quit worrying about it but damn I sure am $20 and $37 and $53 dollaring myself to death on these bikes.

Just writing in case some generous soul has got a spare one sitting around that would like a home in a '69 Firebird ....

Lannis

I have rethreaded the nuts with 3/8 UNF. Bodge, but seems to work well. Cheers,

That wouldn't hurt a thing. If I don't find a proper bolt soon, I'll go that way ....

Lannis

If getting the correct Fasteners is too onerous a task then save on the grief & sell the bike to some one who will cherish it
or
Get yourself a set of CEI Taps & dies which every BSA owner shoud have as part of their kit
Then go to your nearest boating supplies & buy a 3/8 WW bolt ( in nice marine grade stainless )
Get one with a clean section of shank the length you require
Cut the old thread off & retap CEI
Not rocket science You could have made 10 in the time you havve been moaning about not being able to find the "right" bolt.
I have been doing this for decades
A lot of the BSA club members also do the same
Not that long ago you could get bright WW bolts from hardwear stores down here but now days the only WW you come across are loose fit 70% thread depth & galvanized so no use on a motorcycle .
I thought you were a reasonably intellegent person who could think for themselves to problem solve
Was I wrong ?

Lannis,
I have a can of various British nuts and bolts I saved from parts I robbed or replaced etc, Send me the length, diameter and TPI and I'll see what I can find.

Mr Mike

Hey, thanks! 3/8" diameter, 1-7/8" long, 26 tpi BSC thread. I have a can too but yours is probably more extensive .....

Lannis

Lannis,
Sorry, got it in 5/16ths but not 3/8ths.
Mr Mike.

Just a thought. Take a 3/8ths bolt that is long enough to have 1 7/8ths unthreaded. If you have a 3/8ths 26 tpi threading die, cut enough threads to get the nut on.

Mr Mike