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My Axle is leaking..!!! The fork left side damper rod/tube retaining socket head bolt that comes up from the bottom needs to come out and get a new seal washer. I hope that will fix it…. Can anyone tell me if removing it will be a problem to get the bolt started again with the new seal washer? Best I recall is that the tube at the bottom of the slider will be free to move around with the bolt removed. Seems like an iffy process………. Dunno eek


Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
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Originally Posted by KC in S.B.
.............. Seems like an iffy process………. Dunno eek
For sure, I think you're right. You're probably going to want to take that fork leg apart to do that sealing washer. Cleanliness is really important and that will be a problem if it is partly assembled.

But if you really want to try it anyway, a piece of tube big enough to fit over the damper rod and just long enough so the top fork crown nut can screw in and hold pressure on the damper tube (probably with a 5/16" washer between the damper and your spacer tube), that would give you a fighting chance. The ends of the tube would need to be finished square, preferably on a lathe, and be sure the spacer tube is centered on the crown nut. But all this sounds like a lot of effort for an uncertain outcome. Definitely iffy.

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The original drain plugs had pips in them to locate against the notches in the damper rod lowers. You could probably use a small screw driver just to hold it in place once you picked up a couple of threads with the drain bolt.

For sealing I’ve ptfe tape to be the best method. I’ve had difficulty using the aluminium washers and getting them to seal.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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The aluminium washers don't work well, old ones are missed and left in, new one over the top does not seal. I ensure there is no old washers there and then used an OD trimmed down dowty washer. If the pip is missing off the drain screw I poke in a small screwdriver to stop the damper body turning as the bottom allen bolt is tightened.

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Thanks for the replies. Thinking about the fork hydraulic action, that spot does get some pounding force on the seal!
At build I am sure I had only 1 new washer installed, (can alum. washers be annealed?)and the drain plug had the Pip, but I do suffer from powder coat disease. I expect there could be a less than perfect surface where a washer would need to seal. A perfect size end mill cutter would be handy to clean that seal face. Since I will need to remove the top cap anyway, I may try to use down pressure on the lower damper piece as Stuart suggested. Recalling the shape of that lower piece, maybe a length of 1/2” conduit would fit over the rod and keep down force as needed. I bet this scenario has been played out a few times on this fork design!


Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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Copper washers worked for me; I made them out of an old head gasket. If you have the correct drain screws with the pip that fits into a notch in the damper, and the drain screw is in place, it will keep the damper from turning when you turn the mounting screw. This is actually specified as a required step in assembly in my Chilton shop manual.

When this happened to me once, I plugged the hole in the fork leg on the other side of the axle with silicone. Bad idea #9: It made the oil run down the axle and it washed the grease out of my wheel bearing. It may have gotten into the brake drum as well; I can't remember. I just mention this because you may want to inspect the wheel bearings when you take it apart.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Hi Mark, Well it looks like I did avoid bad idea #9. Not sure yet what bad idea # I am on yet….. Those seal washers are so thin walled, distance from ID to OD, pretty darn hard to make your own I expect. Working up through the small bolt access at bottom of the slider, and through the distance of the axel mount, it will be difficult to even see what the condition is. Can’t get a head under it to look, so using a mirror………. Can’t complain too much, I am the one that put this fork together, so the bad seal is my own doing. I have now found my SAE 7/32” hex drive socket, and will test tightness before doing any take-apart. Very slow leak while sitting for months, so Maybe it’s just not tight enough? smirk

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 03/07/22 2:53 pm.

Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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I guess I’m lucky. I bought a bunch of the thick aluminum washers a while back and they worked fine.
I did/do clean out the powder coat as I have found ridge build up around the drain hole.
Yes check tightness, I found issues in past corrected by tightening

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KC, I know what you mean about ID vs. OD. I made the ID first, then put the washer on the bolt and filed the outer edge down. It took some creative clamping...

"I am the one that put this fork together, so the bad seal is my own doing." Not necessarily.

"...so Maybe it’s just not tight enough?" We can always hope. (Seriously, checking is a very good idea.)


Mark Z

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You could always try and super glue a dowty washer to the bottom of the damper rod, I did this with an anealed copper washer. it worked quite well! though I always like the use of PTFE as mentioned earlier.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Finally got after it yesterday for a bit, and found the “socket head” bolt FIRM but easily loosened. Decided to work it loose/tight a few times, tighten and see how it acts for a test period while out of town next week……
Meanwhile looking thru boxes of small bits to see if maybe I have any of those proper aluminum seal washers.

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 03/08/22 1:53 pm.

Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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I have a similar leak but on a 67 Triumph 650. At the bottom of the fork is the bolt and washer but this threads in to the cone shaped piece inside which I can't get to, of course. What are the chances of replacing the washer with this set up? I have the drain plug screws with the pip.

Dave

Last edited by dave j; 03/09/22 8:39 am.
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The Triumph cone is quite short which makes it difficult. A long tube, suitably sized to take the cone, mounted in a vice with the cone on top upside down and then the lower the fork slider over the top. Then insert the drain plug and rotate fork slider until the pip engages, then drop the bolt and washer from above and tighten.

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Not possible in situ then. Oh well.

Dave

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My 2c :
If the fork is fully compressed, I believe the fork tube bottom will actually sit hard on top of that taper spike. It would hold it down in place, as long as the unscrewing action was not forced up after the initial loosening. Maybe the Triumph side will comment? Or investigate if that tube will touch the spike when fully compressed. I have seen marks on that spike.
Of course this would mean fighting the spring (s). I did something similar on a BSA using a ratchet tie down strap from top clamp down to bottom of slider. Finding a place to attach at the bottom and still leave room to work would take your thought. Wheel off so working only 1 leg is best of course.


Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65L numbers match, “best effort” from basket *
Gone:
‘66 A65L“in ‘95 getting back in the game”+ empty ‘67 Case&Frame *
‘69 A65L
‘68 A65L “red bike” basket, sold & made whole by BB member
‘68 A65F nice Tribute bike
‘65 A50L bitsa from spare parts, Son’s fun
‘62 A10 Spitfire
‘65 T120R sad case, saved by BB member
'65 XLCH “scratched THAT itch”……
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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I just ordered some of those washers for the b44 project.

https://www.bsaunitsingles.com/item.wws?sku=41-5145


65 TR6R 68A65T 69 B44VS. 74 T150V 19 Chieftain

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