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Hi, Kyle, do you have a main shaft you could slide that bearing on?

.0002" will be light press fit. You'll need a driver tube or warm bearing well.

I've not found the bearing normally a light press fit. but a snug/easy sliding fit will no "play".

I got the JAF RLS-6. Nominal ID 3/4" 19.05mm. Their catalog Pg 12. Bearing tolerance chart is at end of catalog. My shaft is .7495" & bearing slides on perfectly.

https://www.bearingslimited.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JAF-Bearings-Catalog-Full-Line.pdf

Here's the brake hone I used for head set bearings, $20.00 from Orielly's. It will do 3/4" bore. Smallest is 11/16". Should you get this hone, center pivots of stones in bearing. Barely zig zag or it will bell mouth bore. On the head set I had to take off about .0015". That was a tight drive fit. I would not sand shaft to fit bearing. Hone the bearing. Sure Sunnen hone would be tool of choice. Who has one of those in their garage? I know a few do, but not me.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-hone/lis0/10500?q=brake+hone&pos=1
Don

Last edited by TR7RVMan; 01/14/22 8:39 am. Reason: changed sentence

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I do not have a spindle

.0005” tolerance on the bearing appears to be normal

I measure the OD of all my bearings and ID of my case bores before installing any bearing to measure the press fit and roundness, you would be surprised that bearings have slightly different dimensions (+/- .0002/3”)

Other alternative is to lightly remove material off the main shaft using oil and emery cloth followed by polishing to get a nice smooth surface

I have a Sunnen MBB-1600 honing machine I use here at the shop daily

I could be wrong but you might need a diamond stone to hone the ID of the bearing due to the hardness

Perhaps a quick hone wouldn’t be an issue

Last edited by C.B.S; 01/14/22 1:32 pm.
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Hi Steve, I don't know what to tell you. Try a JAF or get the brake hone.

I can say the brake hone worked quite well on the tight fitting steering head bearing on T140. $20 won't break the bank.

I'd certainly not sand the shaft. If it was my bike I'd get the brake hone. I used solvent for cutting fluid. Cleaned bearing with gas, carb cleaner, brake clean, compressed air. I taped up bearing very well before honing. Then cleaned again. I had no trouble feeling the clearance of bearing on spindle. The hone doesn't cut that fast & I just ran hone a few seconds when it got close.

I know you have skills, you'll find the honing easy.
Don


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Thanks to Kyle and everyone else for the info and encouragement. I received the RHP bearing in the mail today, the JAPAN bearing is enroute, so I will have two bearings to 'play' with. I have an auto supply store a couple miles down the street, so brake hone is easy enough the lay hands on. I can use the old bearing for practice purposes. I have more confidence in that than I do a Dremel or trying to alter mainshaft diameter.

I'll post here again once I figure out the solution.

More will be revealed,

Steve


'77 T140J Silver Jubilee
'82 T140LE TMA Royal
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No worries

If you have a lathe, putting the mainshaft between centers and using a fine emery cloth and oil works too

Common procedure for folks trying to obtain a slip fit on crank bearings

More than one way to do it

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Normally you use worn fine emery paper.
If you dont have any then rub two pieces of fine emery paper together for a couple of minutes and then get rid of the dust.
Use very light oil--I find 3 into 1 sewing machine oil is ideal.
Done properly in English English it is called "linishing".
HTH

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Hi, I would not reduce shaft diameter. No telling what ID the next bearing will be. You make shaft smaller & next new bearing fits too loose, what are you going to do?

Just hone the bearing & be done with it. You already have the right idea. Practice on old bearing!! Good plan!!
Don


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...if you have the RHP or the NSK (remove the shields) and as you say the shaft is perfect and untouched; the bearings would fit without major problem; with the aid of a socket. Do not know with other brand.
As TR7RVMan; mentioned; is better not to reduce shaft diameter; but you can clean a bit there with a fine grit and feel the smoothness. That is not removing material; use a fine sandpaper that did not remove but clean the surface.
You mentioned that you have an smooth shaft; sometimes is not as smooth to fit the bearings. In that case with RHP you would fit properly. This is the easiest bearing of the engine.

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Not building a rocket ship here

Polishing crank bearing journals as stated earlier is common practice to allow a "slip fit" of bearings

We are talking a few tenths here, not .001"s

Let me know how the honing the bearing works out, I hope the stone will cut through

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The RHP bearing I received fits. (ID measured at 0.7490") Had to *lightly* tap the inner race with a punch around the mainshaft to get it started. Once the nose of the mainshaft was through the race it slid on easily (this was with a cold 'shaft and a warm bearing.

Now if I can just figure out what keeps locking my gearbox when I try to turn the camplate! laughing

I have a BSA A75, any chance my JAPAN bearing will fit that? : whistle

Cheers,

Steve

Last edited by JubeePrince; 01/18/22 10:40 pm.

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Hi, Regarding locking of trans, first the main shaft MUST be pulled tightly to the right against bearing. I install the washer, kick start sleeve, ratchet, nut. wrench tighten nut such it keeps shaft tight on bearing. Often 10# torque is plenty.

Also you need sprocket on 5th gear at least wrench tight.

The 5 speed dogs are wide. They must line up with adjoining dog closely. The shafts must be rotated a lot to align dogs.

Often it is necessary to slowly rotate sprocket or hold it stationary at times to get dogs to align.

For whatever reason I can no longer email videos over 24-25 MB.

Back to the RHP bearing. What did it measure compared to other bearing? Kind of sounds like your main shaft is lightly burred. Or bell shaped??
Don


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Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Back to the RHP bearing. What did it measure compared to other bearing? Kind of sounds like your main shaft is lightly burred. Or bell shaped??
Don

Originally Posted by Jubeeprince
The RHP bearing I received fits. (ID measured at 0.7490")

Could be either/or. There was a *light* scuff mark on a couple of the splines on the mainshaft where the inner race rides. Either the old bearing spun, or there was some corrosion from sitting in a trailer outside for a long time. Lots of swings in temperature in that environment creating condensation.

Steve


'77 T140J Silver Jubilee
'82 T140LE TMA Royal
‘69 BSA Rocket 3 (patiently awaiting it's turn)
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
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Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi, Regarding locking of trans, first the main shaft MUST be pulled tightly to the right against bearing. I install the washer, kick start sleeve, ratchet, nut. wrench tighten nut such it keeps shaft tight on bearing. Often 10# torque is plenty.

Also you need sprocket on 5th gear at least wrench tight.

And it helps to have the 4th gear on the mainshaft fitted right way around!! whistle

Oy....


'77 T140J Silver Jubilee
'82 T140LE TMA Royal
‘69 BSA Rocket 3 (patiently awaiting it's turn)
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

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Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
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Hi Steve, Very easy to make a mistake like this. Good you got it going!
Don


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