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Hello all, I,m just getting down to last few tasks to finish this refresh from 40 years, Got the engine fired up with first kick but did not want to run. I forgot the choke was on full. Several more kicks did nothing except kick my foot off. Way too much advance, reset that and it started, set up the throttle and idle mixture and running great. scavenge oil back to the tank within 1 minute.

I,m working on installing rebuilt speedo and tach from vintage cable and opened up the headlight shell to figure out install of wiring for lighting of these using correct as possible wiring diagrams. I found the brown/green -ve wire tap off the lighting switch to provide the ground but presently stuck and uncertain how provide the +ve frame power. I purchased 2 new bulb sockets brown/green leads with the restored guages that come with also a +ve ground clip which i,m fairly certain i need to connect these somewhere on the headlight shell, I just cannot see to where. The wiring diagram is not any help.

The original configuration of this bike was a royal star with one speedo Which maybe did not have any lighting and had a oil pressure switch/ warning light which is not being now used as i now have a 67 engine installed. I could try the unused oil pressure warning light red/green wire for a tap for the frame power for the clips on the new bulb leads and reattach the single oil switch lead on the engine. I think that would work but I have 2 white wires coming out of the harness in the headlight shell that seem to be doing nothing. The wiring diagram seems to show then as returns to the battery negative from coils and the oil switch.

Probably getting to much COD with this but could anyone enlighting me as to how a original 69 lightning speedo/tach illumination circuit is wired and what these 2 white wires are used for. I try to send pics, Thanks Andy

p2410205129.jpg p2411642667 (2).jpg DSCN0840.JPG
Last edited by andyame1974; 11/25/21 3:09 am.
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A little more update, i tried to see if just grounding this speedo/tach light bulb lead to a frame, it now does turn the bulb on.

The last few days, when i tried this i did not come, so i thought then i would need to install a extra lead to provide the positive earth of the frame. i noticed that the rear tail running light was always on by seeing the reflection on the garage door, I only noticed last night the reflection was not there. Although some times it would come back on its own, i started messing with these speedo/tach lights, and every else inside the headlight shell which was when i noticed i lost all power to the bike. No brake light with key on. battery good fuses good, nothing burning

I remembered someone on here saying that the positive grounds on these bikes are a big source of concern and that if any one is considering to restore on of these bikes as original ground up was to incorporate better enhanced positive grounds as was produced during original manufacture.

Anyways take the writing as you will, After 48 hours reading and months of everthing on this site, relateing to BSA,s, I finnally went for checking these stupid little positive frame connections from the rectifier rear frame and even worse the condenser bracket. Cleaned those up, and power restored, Sorta, will see

I got to thinking seeing the problem with the headlight switch at center position that controlled the rear tail running light was intermitant I tried the single lead to the tach again and now illuminates as above

Everything seems to working fine now, all i can think of the fix was bad connections between the positive earth connection on the rectifier and condensor bracket. thet did not seem bad though, fingers crossed

Somethings not helpfull with these wiring manuals can take you way off the beating track, I have one brown/ blue going into the ampmeter instead of 2, Not sure how that works.

Just have to say, If this happens to you, You need to have a few many drinks and watch Jethro Tull when he was long haired and wore a old ragged coat back when he was starting out. Nothing Is Easy


Apologys for the previous version mess i made with post, Got into way too many rum and cokes.

Last edited by andyame1974; Yesterday at 04:49 AM. Reason: drunk writing
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Took a couple of sickies back in 1972 to see him live at the Hordern in Sydney, really some thing else when comparred to Herbie man a few years earlier at the Opera House .


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Quote from OP "I found the brown/green -ve wire tap off the lighting switch to provide the ground but presently stuck and uncertain how provide the +ve frame power. I purchased 2 new bulb sockets brown/green leads with the restored guages that come with also a +ve ground clip which i,m fairly certain i need to connect these somewhere on the headlight shell."

Please clarify, your bike was originally positive/ + ground/ earth . The quote above suggests otherwise. If you have changed to negative earth , what else is non stock?, neg earth will kill the original rectifier.


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I agree with Gavin, this thread is confusing to follow in my opinion. Are we talking about a positive-ground system here? Not having the toggle switch shown also is complicating the troubleshooting process. Besides the ignition switch, the toggle headlamp switch is instrumental in distributing the power throughout the electrical system. The brown/green wire circuit, which runs the tail lamp running light, as well as the instrument lamps, should be getting it's power from terminal #7 on the base of the 31788 toggle switch. Many of the bulb holder socket leads have a loop or tab for grounding the bulb holders, so you can make your own ground wire leads to properly earth the bulb holders. I prefer soldering a red wire to each bulb holder, then join them together with a ring terminal on one of the ends of the head lamp bucket mounting bolts. The two white wires joined together with a double female sleeve are power out from the ignition switch, perhaps to power the front brake switch, and the other may have been to power the oil pressure switch, which you are not using. When the ignition switch is in the "on" position, the white wires are hot, so I would at the very least, tape over the exposed end of the sleeve. The power in to the toggle switch should be via the white/brown wire, as you have noted in your picture. This wire also comes from the same side of the ignition switch as the plain white wires. If the original Zener diode is fitted, where is the white wire coming from? Puzzling indeed.
-Dave


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Yes apologys for the mess i made with this update post, I edited this last night, The power is all original so is the harness, positive ground. The pics i used for the headlight shells are not from my bike, I only used then to illustrate to help someone to possibly help me identify which color leads i might need to use to get power to the speedo/tach blubs.

Just before i wrote the original update i was encountering intermitant loss of power to the toggle switch, I had not discouvered this when i first wrote and began the thread. This why i then believed i would need to make an additional leads using the bulb holder (loop or tag ) as you suggest and still may.

I still really cannot explain the power losses, which i noticed by chance only by noticeing the tail light was not reflecting off the garage door, then with key on the horn and stop light did not come on, ( the rear brake lever is not installed so swiitch is always on )

My memory is still a bit hazy after that when the rum came out

All circuits still working as of last check 2 hours ago after resetting the red terminals on the rectifier bolt and condenser mount bracket 2 days ago


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