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I decided to take the plunge and start doing my own two part painting; I've had great success with rattle can jobs in the past, so I'm no stranger to the prep and polishing to get a mirror-like finish. After months of reading up on technique, environmental conditions, types of paint, reviews on paint guns that would fit within my set up, etc. I think I have something that will work. This started because, after spending hundreds of dollars on paint from Don Hutchison, I took my BSA tank and side panels to a local painter that my neighbor used and loved. Needless to say, he did a less than stellar job and the thought of the money lost still irks me.

Today it was slightly warm so I decided to spray some primer on a newly blasted Norton frame. I thought I did a really good job and am pleased for the most part, but there are some places I definitely hit a little too light. I'm going to apply some primer to the gearbox cradle and swingarm tomorrow, so I can touch up those places on the frame. I'm not sure if it was a lighting issue, but I felt I needed to be a bit of a contortionist to get all the hidden areas on the frame.

So, my question for you guys is how you set up your frames to be painted. I hung mine by the steering tube, but it was awkward to get the top and bottom of the frame while it hung vertically. In your opinion, what's the best way to set up a frame for painting?

Two wodden poles clamped tight
One through the steering stem & one through the swingarm hole
3 stands one pole between 2 stands the 3rd supporting the other
A second set of hands to flip from steeting to swingarm

The way I did it 40 years ago, similar to Trevor's method:

Two saw horses placed parallel to each other. The wood pole or pipe through the swing arm holes will rest on these.
A pipe or wooden pole goes through the swing-arm mounting holes,
another through the steering stem hole, with hose-clamps on it, both sides of the hole to lock it in place.

Make this second pole long enough to allow the frame to be level in either direction when you are painting it.
The ends of this second pole will rest on the ground, either way the frame is 'flipped."

Spray the bottom of the frame first, then flip it over to paint the top.

Let it sit for three to five minutes, then inspect it to see if you missed any part of it,
if so, respray as necessary.

The paint will still be wet enough to blend with itself.

Last time I spray painted, I fixed two small, cheap LED flashlights to the spray gun. That made it much easier to see when I had enough, but not too much, paint on the surface in semi-hidden corners.

Or paint by brush---this enables you to get into all the nooks and crannies.
I use the POR-15 paint system.
Just my two cents worth of course.

You can't paint a frame WELL without re-positioning it at least once or twice.

Regardless, you'll want to mask off the key mounting points and only apply a very light black coat at the VERY END, per OldBritts extensive advice.

Theses are (mainly) engine, isolastic, transmission and swingarm mounting areas.

OldBritts is no longer active but their tech info is still available.

Pelle, that is an EXCELLENT idea:

I wish I had those small LED lights "back in the day."

Well, if I tried to spray paint in the lighting that was acceptable to me 30 years ago, it wouldn't be pretty...

With age come wisdom (hopefully) and need for better lighting (certainly).

That's what I've always done. Two coats by brush to get enough paint on there, sand and top coat with spray to make it pretty, Rustoleum.

Thanks for the advice guys. Now that I got my first spray down, I spent some time yesterday (it was warm, highs in the low 70sF before today's cold snap) playing around with gun settings as well. I sprayed the swingarm and gearbox cradle and they look amazing, even if it's just primer. Lots of variables; using the gun is like tuning a carb. I like the advice on poles and where to place them. That should make the job a bit easier!

Now I just need to figure out how to keep painting through winter with colder temperatures. Does anyone have advice on what they do to besides wait for a warmer day?

As with any craft, the more you use your spray gun, the better you will get with it.
You will eventually find the settings that work best for YOU.

I always chose to spray outside, during spring and summer, to avoid the fumes, and to have better lighting conditions.
I sprayed just after daybreak, when dew was on the ground to prevent dust, and the air was still, there were no breezes.

For frames and small parts I used a small Devilbiss "touch-up" spray gun, but those were the days that all spray guns were siphon guns.

Today;s "top-loader' guns with the paint container on top may give better results. I haven't tried one yet.

ROD MOULDING, please "check in" on this. Do you have experience with the newer spray equipment?

I bought the largest clothes rail I could find, a thick bent tent peg through the steering neck and a bent wire clothes hanger under the rear mudguard bracket. Then the peg held by a chain. This clothes rail had 2 foot height extensions also but I didn’t feel the need to use them. I got around everywhere just fine.

I used acid etch on the frame, however if I were to do it again… I would use Eastwoods 2k epoxy primer. I used it for my tinware and I was really pleased with its application, coverage and finish.

I hang frames just as Alan has shown, maybe a touch higher. I use a Gravity feed touch up gun ( Top loader ). I do find these much easier than syphon guns that can be a little more Awkward to manoeuvre. I usually have the gun in one hand and an LED torch in the other!

If you check the paint manufacturers data sheets ( Available from your supplier or the inter web ) they will give you recommended times when the paint can be over coated without prep.

And useing strong coloured pigments helps as well.
There is a reason why rubbing coats are oftem vivid green , red or purple .

If I can ever find two videos which even agree on the proper air pressure to use I might have a chance of getting better results that using a rattle can!

David, instead of You Tube try reading the technical data sheet from the paint supplier. This will tell you everything you need to know, including air pressure.

As a general rule of thumb, for non HVLP guns I have the compressor set at 40 PSI. I then fine tune it at the gun while doing a few test passes on a scrap bit of wood or old car panel.

40 pounds at the compressor was my setting as well, then test and adjust using old cardboard boxes as targets.

I set up temporary paint booths in the back of my garages (two different locations) by placing a 2x4 over the over head door tracks for hanging the frames using rebar tying wire. Then another 2x4 at the extreme back of the tracks to which I staple thin plastic sheeting to separate it from the rest of the garage. Continue the plastic sheeting over anything of value that you don't want painted. I start with a lacquer based primer for frames after sandblasting because it dries quickly, can be sanded within a short time, and immediately painted over (but use a spray can of etching primer on gas tanks). The trick is to get about 6 different light sources to be able to see everything, and even then I can miss spots. I use a small touch-up siphon feed gun on frames and other small parts because it it easier to maneuver into the small spaces. I use a two part acrylic or polyurethane paint as a finish paint. I use about 45 psi on the siphon feed one, but only about 20-25 on an HVLP Harbor Freight gun for bigger work (get one of those small adjustable regulators that attach directly to the gun). I can usually get the back of my garage (detached), partitioned off with the plastic up to over 60 * F with a decent electric heater to be able to paint in colder or wet weather. Of course, don't try painting without an organic vapor breathing apparatus.

I don't have a photo of the complete set-up, but here are a few examples of the results. FWIW, I am only an amateur, sort of a jack-of-many-trades but master-of-none type of guy.





Tom

P.S. Wear old shoes, a painters throw-away coveralls, and be aware that the floor may end up whatever color you are using. These 2-part paints don't completely cure for hours and stick well to the floor and yourself.

"Dead," that's the HIGH we experienced 50 years when ago spraying lacquer paint in a closed garage.
It's like being drunk, but with what could eventually be fatal results.

Tom, try laying an old tarp (or a cheap, plastic one) on the garage floor before you spray, to catch that sticky over-spray and keep the floor cleaner.

"Tom, try laying an old tarp (or a cheap, plastic one) on the garage floor before you spray, to catch that sticky over-spray and keep the floor cleaner."

I tried using a piece of plastic. My shoes stuck to the plastic and kept lifting it up when I tried to walk! Yes, your shoes will stick and will pick up leaves and dirt when you walk out and the floor will change colors. I can live with that but take my shoes off before I go back into the house.

But I didn't mention to spray the floor down with a mist of water before you start after sweeping out all the dust you can. I also didn't mention the little flies that always seem to be attracted to the paint. I've read you can sometimes pick them out with tweezers, but the little wings always stay behind.

Tom

I know of auto body shops that spray the floor with water, as you say.
For some reason, humidity helps the new paints lay out smoother.

This is excellent practice with enamel paints, but in the "old" days when lacquers were used, humidity made the paints "blush."