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#863252 11/15/21 9:27 pm
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Hello First time so please be patient. I searched the forum regarding this question and came up empty. I see a lot of first timers chastised for asking questions that have already been answered elsewhere, trying not to make same mistake.

I find myself needing to make an oil pump for one of my bikes. I was wondering if anyone out there might have dimensional drawings they would be willing to share with me.

Thanks

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Hi and welcome.

What kind of engine are you working with? There're lots of different ways to do oil pumps in the brit bike world.

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Hello
Current project is a long stroke A7 but data for any unit twin or unit single should serve my purposes. Mostly interested dimensions for the drive spindle as it is not centered in the body. Deviations of only a few thousandths could cause grief.

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Welcome to this board. Searching it can be daunting so don't be afraid to ask questions. Most everyone here is more than willing to help.


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Originally Posted by Obsidian Axe
Hello First time so please be patient........
I find myself needing to make an oil pump for one of my bikes. I was wondering if anyone out there might have dimensional drawings they would be willing to share with me. Thanks

Hello and Wecome here! Please explain "MAKE an oil pump..." Do you actually intend to produce your own oil pump version? Intersting if so!


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Rest assured Axe, no one has asked this question before.

Like KC, I'm a bit puzzled, especially if you're talking a gear-type pump. That is, I would think that manufacturing any sort of precise gear would require some very sophisticated machinery and skill. A piston-type pump could be simpler to make I suppose...


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Do you have an original A7 pump to look at? If not, one shouldn't be too difficult to come up with.

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On the A65 the spindle is located 0.718" from the lower stud and 0.907" from the top stud (1.625" stud spacing).
You could convert the design to a piston pump by making a six shooter barrel with a swash plate drive but easier to use gerotors. You are limited by the depth of the timing cover and length of the worm gear.

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Hello Everyone. Thanks for the interest. I have been away for a bit. Will try to answer.

DMadigan- Thanks for the dimensions. They confirm what I had measured.

Stuart- I do have the original pump. I had planned to touch it up and re-use however after closer examination it is not serviceable. The metal appears to have, for lack of a better description, "de-laminated". I am not sure it would show in a photo so please take my word for it.

Mark and KC- I intend to make a new body and re-use the existing gears, worm, and wheel.

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"Mark and KC- I intend to make a new body and re-use the existing gears, worm, and wheel."

Oh, ok; I get it.


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I am curious. Why not look for s serviceable used pump?
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Originally Posted by Obsidian Axe
Hello Everyone. Thanks for the interest. I have been away for a bit………

Mark and KC- I intend to make a new body and re-use the existing gears, worm, and wheel.

Just to confirm for the record: You are aware that “replacement” pumps using the original design are available right?
Also, there are BSA OEM Iron body pumps out there, rare to find, but do exist.
The cost it significant but likely less than the time/design effort/setup/production costs would be for your single use.
My $.02, I’d spend the rework available cash on End Feed if worried about the oil system.

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 11/22/21 4:47 pm.

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Quote
re-use the existing gears, worm, and wheel.

My experience is that the original gears weren't particularly well made in the first place, hence the pumps are lumpy when turning even in good condition.

If you're skilled enough to make a new body, to ensure good pressure, pay special attention to the clearance between the gears, body and end plates.

These pumps have a fondness for leaking oil through the spindle and between the feed/scavenge gears, so fit O rings if possible to prevent wet sumping.

As already mentioned, unless you're a dedicated machinist, it would be a whole lot easier to buy a new pump from SRM or similar.


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If I were building my own pump, I would surely want to have an oil pressure gauge on the bike when I first started it. Not an easy thing to install on an earlier BSA twin. I put an SRM pump on my 70T'bolt and was very impressed with the quality.

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I have never had an early twin (A7/A10) but I would have an oil pressure gauge on any plain bearing bike that BSA made. Not hard to do I had an alloy pump in my A65 and while the alloy housing seemed a bit chintzy, the gears and spindle were good. I did some very mild lapping and reassembled checking to make sure it turned smoothly and effortlessly. It made over 100 psi (momentarily) when I deadheaded the relief so I knew the pump made plenty of pressure. That's when I replaced the OPRV and sealed off the cavity for my new pressure control system described elsewhere on this site. Oil pressure is key for these air-cooled hot rods!

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Hi All,
The longstroke engine suffered from premature cam and follower wear partly due to the absence of the "trough" as on the later engines
Oddly of late replacement cams are available due to Wassel (Hepolite) sending the wrong order or information to Newman cams, they are or were advertised as 334 cams
If I were to take on the job of remaking the pump I would get hold of a gear set from the late high capacity A65 pump in a bid to increase longevity of the rebuilt engine
BTY, I happen to have two NOS longstroke cam followers going spare if needed

John


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