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Jul 10th, 2022
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I hate when you "finally" decide to ask but already know the answer's probably not going to be what you want to hear.

1967 BSA B44R. I have a leak at the oil pipe (41-735). There are two sealing washers in that union/pipe (68-598)

I'd like to know if anybody has had luck replacing those 2 seals with the engine in the frame.......and if so, how did you do it?


Thanks in advance, Gordon in NC

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 10/31/21 8:27 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........my son says.... "Everybody is stupid about something"
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It's so long ago but I somehow took the stud out, I then replaced the gasket, it was a B40 in a B25 frame so no O rings like the later ones.

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Done it recently ........... a right fiddly job, Kommando is right the stud has to come out. Took me ages to get the bugger back in! Should have done it when I had the motor out ....... hey ho never again!

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I've had trouble with those studs with the cases on the bench.

Problem I see (with it in the frame) is I only have the thickness of the nut to work with.....no more than a couple of extra threads sticking past the nut. No way ( I can see) to get a stud puller or an extra nut on.

Maybe take the nut off then move the pipe as far forward as possible then I might get pointed ended vice grips on the stud? Nope........that makes me cringe thinking about it. If it turns ( pun intended) out easily that would work........if not, it could get ugly.

The actual o-ring replacement would be easy enough. You just need to actually see both surfaces.......or you'd never know if they were clean. Lots of surface.....wouldn't take much to mess up that connection.

How did you get the stud out?

Thanks for the replies, Gordon

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 10/31/21 10:06 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........my son says.... "Everybody is stupid about something"
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"How did you get the stud out?"

tough one ....... my issue was that I hadn't fitted the pipe union at all when I had the motor out for rebuild .... "I'll fit it in the frame" thought I... bad move, so I had plenty of stud to grab hold of.

This is another case of " Why the hell is it a stud and not a bolt?". Life would be much easier if it were a bolt, 5/16th UNC would do nicely (according to my parts book). The argument that the constant removing and replacing would wear out the threads in the ally hardly holds true here.

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Dave, I agree about the bolt. I routinely replace those seals but only when I’ve had the engine out of the frame.

This is a “new to me” bike and it’s got a troublesome “drip” at the pipe Union. So I grab 2 new seals and dive under ( got another bike on the lift). Crap!!!! Talk about not using a bolt……how about who put that frame cross member in there? I “could” probably fiddle around and get the old seals out and the new back in using a probe and mirror but without being able to visually inspect the two surfaces……I don’t think it’s worth the effort.

Tilting the engine forward should work. I’ll try it first on an empty set of cases and see how far I need to tilt. That darn rear engine mounting stud and I have had mixed results over the years.

I’ll still wait a bit longer to see if someone has a better plan.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Gordon in NC

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 11/01/21 10:56 am.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA........my son says.... "Everybody is stupid about something"
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